Ventilation in a private house made of aerated concrete – how to do it yourself, step-by-step plan

It’s essential to ventilate your aerated concrete private home to keep your living space comfortable and healthy. Despite being well-known for its superior insulating qualities, aerated concrete has a tendency to retain moisture and stale air when improperly ventilated. By ensuring that fresh air is circulated throughout your home, a good ventilation system lowers the risk of mold growth and improves the quality of the air in general.

In an aerated concrete home, designing an efficient ventilation system doesn’t have to be difficult. You can install a system that maintains clean, fresh air inside your home with a little preparation and the appropriate equipment. Through step-by-step instructions, this guide will help you understand what materials you’ll need, best practices for installation, and how to maintain the efficiency of your system.

We’ll go over several ventilation techniques, including mechanical and natural systems, and assist you in selecting the one that works best for your house. This guide will give you helpful advice and insights to ensure a seamless process whether you’re building a new home or remodeling an old one. By the time you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to make your aerated concrete house a healthy, well-ventilated living area.

Why do you need ventilation

A home constructed with gas blocks is regarded as a low-cost option since it can be completed quickly and easily, and the walls are flat and highly insulated. Savings can be achieved with installation, since special equipment is not required, and with finishing.

Aerated concrete’s capacity to swiftly and extensively absorb moisture is its lone disadvantage. Complete protection is unachievable, even with plaster finishing on the walls. Exposure to moisture can cause the finish to peel and deteriorate quickly, as well as put people’s health and lives in danger due to microorganisms and a poor microclimate.

It’s also critical that any wet vapors that enter the aerated concrete blocks severely limit the material’s ability to support weight. Additionally, this may shorten the house’s lifespan and result in its destruction.

Given these characteristics, ventilation in an aerated concrete home needs to be done effectively, correctly, and sustainably: each room has a system set up in compliance with air exchange guidelines. It will draw in fresh air from outside while eliminating moisture and offensive smells.

Types of ventilation systems

It is important to research the requirements for installing a ventilation system in an aerated concrete home before beginning any installation. In conventionally constructed buildings, channels are installed only in areas with higher humidity (kitchen, bathroom, and bath), necessitating the installation of channels in every room.

If this option seems overly complicated and costly, you can install interior doors with special ventilation grilles or a gap from below in the living rooms, as well as ventilation where the humidity is higher.

• Passive – the air moves naturally through the ventilations, which are displayed to the roof of the building.
• Mixed type – exhaust fans are installed where the humidity is the highest, and are turned on only if necessary automatically (through specified time intervals) or with manual launch.
• Forced – in this type of design in the general channel, a exhaust fan is mounted, which works for all ducts.
• Forced supply and exhaust type – air exchange is carried out due to a mechanical ventilation system equipped with a recuperator.

Natural passive ventilation

Only when passive ventilation is installed correctly and there is a regular inflow and outflow of air will it function. All ventilation ducts from the rooms must reach the building’s roof at a specific height in order for the air to escape naturally. If these subtleties are overlooked, the draft will be subpar, and it may even be "overturned."

• Provided that they are located at a distance of 150 centimeters from the ridge – 50 centimeters higher than the ridge
• If the distance is up to 3 meters – the duct head is made at the level of the ridge
• Provided that the distance is more than 3 meters – the top of the duct should not be lower than the border of the line, conditionally drawn from the ridge at an even angle of 10 degrees to the horizon

• Windows with air valves – these can be either slot systems or just a design in the form of a handle for opening the sash (they have a minimum opening area, so they are not suitable for large rooms and can be an auxiliary option).
• Air valves in the walls are the most effective choice, they are installed on the walls and provide a normal flow of fresh air.

Maintaining clean ventilation ducts is essential because debris can obstruct the system’s ability to function. For this reason, in-wall shafts and structures that resemble boxes and extend as vertical pipes beyond the roof are being gradually abandoned because they eventually stop serving their intended purpose.

The simplest method is to drill holes in aerated concrete walls to allow air to enter and exit: a valve for air entry is placed at the bottom of each room, and a valve for outflow is placed at the top. Therefore, there’s no need to damage the integrity of the aerated concrete walls by touching them.

Helpful hints: if you place valves beneath the windows, the winter heat from the radiators will warm the air. You must install a deflector or an umbrella on top of the exhaust pipe when it is brought out to the roof in order to protect against precipitation.

Forced

Since this kind of ventilation system requires the use of special devices and electricity to operate, both installation and operation will come at a high cost. However, these systems have much higher levels of efficiency.

• Air ducts are mounted with exhaust fans, fresh air is supplied through its own network of channels.
• To maintain an optimal temperature in the room, the system is equipped with units for heating the air coming from the street.
• The most economical option is to use a heat recuperator instead of an electric heater. Such a heat exchanger is equipped with two fans (exhaust/supply), in it fresh air is heated by the heat of gases that are removed from the house.

Forced ventilation is merely installed with a fan in addition, following a layout similar to that of natural ventilation.

Skilled artisans claim that in a heated building, recuperator-equipped systems can cut heat loss by 25–30%. The recuperator is typically installed in the attic and connected to the common duct, allowing unrestricted access to the machinery (for maintenance).

Mixed type

In a system such as this, fresh air enters the building naturally, and exhaust is managed by exhaust fans – either a single, powerful exhaust fan installed in the attic with a duct supply, or separate units built into the building’s walls and windows.

These ventilation systems are typically divided into rooms; in living quarters, for example, natural ventilation may be used; in other rooms, forced ventilation may be used (bathroom, kitchen, boiler room, storage room, etc.d.). The most common configuration is a hood with supply ducts installed.

Regarding the kitchen hood, it is preferable to select models with exhaust air exhaust through a window or wall directly to the street in a home constructed of aerated concrete. This should function as a stand-alone unit.

Ventilation ducts

If you are going to build a ventilation system by hand in an aerated concrete house, you should thoroughly research the project. Installation of ventilation ducts is always done with special care, keeping in mind that aerated concrete is a delicate material that is sensitive to sudden changes in moisture and temperature.

It is recommended by experts to arrange everything in separate ventilation shafts or partitions rather than installing the system in external walls, as condensation will appear there.

• Using plastic and asbestos pipes
• Laying out bricks
• Installation of a box made of zinc-coated steel with laying out small-sized blocks of aerated concrete

Steel boxes are expensive and labor-intensive to install, so they are rarely done. Additionally, aerated concrete blocks are negatively impacted by condensation that forms on metal building walls, indicating the necessity for thermal insulation.

Brick ventilation ducts

Brick ventilation duct installation calls for a specific set of steps in addition to the availability of the required supplies and equipment.

• It is desirable that there are few such ducts in the building, it is better to build them in the walls of adjacent rooms where high humidity is noted.
• The masonry is carried out only from solid bricks, if hollow – then with subsequent filling of voids with cement mortar.
• The mortar must be applied carefully so that the mixture does not get inside the duct. The seams are completely filled, rubbed every 2-3 rows of stones so as not to allow exhaust air to end up in adjacent rooms and rooms.
• It is advisable to make the inside walls of the ducts smooth so that the air circulates freely. Excess mixture from the joints is immediately removed, the surface is smoothed with a trowel. Also, then the duct can be sleeved with a metal air duct.

Such masonry does not use silicate brick because it crumbles at high temperatures. Brick ducts are not suitable for installing mechanical devices.

Sleeving with plastic pipes

The best technique for putting in forced ventilation. Plastic pipes with a 13 cm cross-section or rectangular pipes with a 150 cm2 cross-section are used in the installation.

Larger pipes work better for natural ventilation. The number of occupants in the house, the amount of exhaust air, the characteristics of the climate, etc. are all necessary for an accurate air duct calculation. A specialist should perform the calculations. The arrangement of the ventilation system coincides with the building of the house.

• Fastening the branch in the block located at the level of the ventilation hole, connecting it to the pipe.
• Cutting holes a couple of millimeters larger than the pipes in the blocks for air ducts (during the masonry process). Usually a hacksaw is used for this.
• Filling the space between the air ducts and the cut walls of the blocks with mortar. Joining pipes (building up) during the process of laying walls.
• Insulation of pipes in areas where they pass through the attic, roof.
• Individual air ducts at the attic level are connected into a single channel, which is led outside through the roof or connected to a recuperator, duct fan. All openings are carefully sealed and sealed.

Maintaining good air quality and avoiding moisture buildup in a private home constructed of aerated concrete requires the creation of an efficient ventilation system. In order to maintain the comfort and health of your house, this comprehensive guide will take you step-by-step through the entire process, from designing the system layout to installing vents and ducts. You can do this project yourself and save money and feel proud of yourself for a job well done if you follow the clear instructions and helpful advice.

System installation

Depending on the ventilation method selected, there are various ways to assemble the entire system. Therefore, installing pipes and laying brick channels occurs during the building phase, and installing fans and valves can happen afterwards.

It is best to create dedicated channels during the building phase, either in every room or just in those that exhibit high levels of humidity. The pipes or brick channels are placed in blocks along the walls, combined in the attic, and insulated where they exit to the roof.

Pipes typically have a diameter of at least 13 centimeters and are composed of plastic. They are placed in mortar-insulated aerated concrete blocks.

• Drawing up a duct installation scheme – if the system is one, the highway is created from one air duct laid horizontally under the ceiling.
• Calculation of the diameter of the duct based on the calculation of the volume of the air that is diverted.
• Calculation of the number of fittings, rectilinear areas and their lengths (according to the scheme).
• Purchase of materials.
• Execution of holes in each wall along the cross section of the duct.
• Assembly for couplings/clamps – starts with a long room.
• Output of the output pipe (usually through the kitchen) through the wall per street.
• Performing windows for hoods closed by grates in the air duct.

The channel model is installed by inserting it into the wall’s opening intended for the hood. Wall models, which are frequently used in bathrooms, are mounted indoors to the wall precisely horizontally to ensure proper fan operation.

What should not be done

In the process of building a private home, it is crucial to carefully consider the preliminary calculations and follow all applicable regulations when designing the ventilation system.

• Ventilation in load-bearing walls is not done to avoid a decrease in strength.
• Both exhaust and supply valves are installed in boiler rooms.
• Both valves are also made in rooms separated from the room with the ventilation duct by two doors.
• The minimum cross-section of the duct should be 0.016 m2 (about 15 centimeters pipe diameter).
• The most effective method is lining the ventilation duct with a plastic pipe. Metal pipes will collect condensate.
• In apartment buildings, it is better to install metal-plastic windows with valves or powerful exhaust fans.

Step	Description
1	Plan the system: Determine where vents will be placed for optimal airflow.
2	Choose the equipment: Select fans and ducts suitable for your home size.
3	Install intake vents: Position them in areas with fresh air access.
4	Install exhaust vents: Place them in spots where stale air accumulates.
5	Connect the ducts: Link intake and exhaust vents using ducts.
6	Install fans: Place them to boost airflow through the ducts.
7	Seal the system: Ensure all connections are airtight to prevent leaks.
8	Test the system: Check for proper airflow and adjust if necessary.

Maintaining a healthy and cozy living environment in a private home constructed of aerated concrete requires adequate ventilation. You can effectively install a ventilation system on your own, which helps with humidity control, pollutant reduction, and indoor air quality improvement, if you take the proper approach.

Plan out your ventilation system’s layout first. Determine which important spaces—like kitchens, bathrooms, and living rooms—need ventilation. Select the appropriate kind of ventilation system, be it hybrid, mechanical, or natural. Mechanical systems use ducts and fans, while natural systems rely on airflow through windows and vents.

Next, assemble the required equipment and supplies, such as a power drill, ducts, fans, and vent covers. Place markers where ducts and vents are going to be installed. Make sure the wall openings are precisely the right size to accommodate the vent covers so they fit snugly. Attach the ducts with screws or adhesive after installing them and connecting them to the fans.

Test the system after installation to make sure everything is operating as it should. To get the right amount of airflow, check the ducts for leaks or obstructions and change the fan settings. Maintaining your ventilation system with routine care, like cleaning the vents and changing the filters, will keep it operating effectively.

You can improve the air quality in your aerated concrete home and make it a more comfortable and healthy place to live by following this easy-to-follow guide. Installing and maintaining your ventilation system correctly will pay off in the long run by giving you a cozy and energy-efficient home.

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