The water drainage system is an important consideration when building a bathhouse. Bathhouses deal with a lot of water, unlike regular rooms, so handling it well is important to avoid damage and guarantee safety. To efficiently handle this extra water, the concrete floor screed must have a well-designed water drain.
Installing a few pipes is not enough to create an efficient drainage system. Careful planning and precise execution are necessary to guarantee that water flows into the drain smoothly and does not pool or cause damage. A proper drainage system adds to the bathhouse’s overall durability in addition to its usefulness.
The main factors and recommended procedures for installing a water drain in a concrete floor screed intended for a bathhouse will be discussed in this article. We’ll walk you through the intricacies of building a dependable and effective water drainage system, from choosing the right materials to comprehending the right techniques. If you’re building a new bathhouse or remodeling an old one, this guide will assist you in getting a result that looks professional.
- Is it possible to do it in a bathhouse?
- Types of structures
- Classic with outlet pipe laid in the screed
- In the tray
- With a pit
- Open drain in the lower part of the wall
- Necessary materials
- Step-by-step instructions for the device
- Possible difficulties and errors
- Useful video
- Video on the topic
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Is it possible to do it in a bathhouse?
In addition to creating discomfort when using the space, standing water in bathhouse wet rooms encourages the growth of harmful bacteria, resistant mold, and insects. For these reasons, a drain is a must.
Drain is an easy engineering fix:
- In the floor. At the lowest point, a water intake grate is arranged, which can be located either in the center of the room or in the corner.
- The water intake branch is connected to a sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.
- The pipe is laid under the floor or in the ground and communicates with the collector.
- The main collector, in turn, drains the accumulated water at an angle to a cesspool, septic tank or other water discharge structure.
The fundamental specifications for a domestic sewage device should be considered when planning and building a drain. Specifically, a coarse filter must be installed on the grate, and the pipeline must be positioned between 1% and 3% at an angle to the horizontal to allow for wastewater movement by gravity.
Types of structures
In actuality Floors with drains are utilized in a variety of building types, each with their own benefits and drawbacks as well as technological features:
Classic with outlet pipe laid in the screed
This layout is usually set up prior to pouring floors into the ground. Prior to laying the utility network to the main line, builders choose the location of the water intake grate. In order to avoid the sewer pipe, the subfloor pie’s remaining components are all arranged with breaks.
Depending on the preferences of the customer, the water intake grate may be slotted or pointed, and surface trays may be arranged along one or more of the wet room’s walls or all around the outside. The trays are arranged slopewise and have a branch pipe for waste disposal into the sewer at their lowest point. The system works on the basis of surface drainage.
Benefits
- effective water removal;
- the ability to clean the network mechanically or hydrodynamically;
- protection of linear communications from fracture, bending.
Drawbacks:
- labor intensity of work;
- reduction in the strength of the screed due to damage to the integrity of the structure;
- the appearance of thermal inhomogeneity, due to the impossibility of installing insulation over the entire plane of the future floor.
In the tray
One or more pipes are laid in a monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete tray before work on the screed device is begun in the ground or in the foundation slab’s body. Given that the sewer’s slope is formed inside the tray, it can be straight.
Benefits
- this method of laying allows you to arrange several pipes in the tray at once – for sewerage and water supply;
- utility networks are reliably protected from mechanical damage;
- it becomes possible to inspect and maintain them.
Drawbacks:
- high cost of trays;
- increased labor intensity;
- if there is a foundation slab – violation of the structure, interference with the compacted base;
- risk of flooding of the tray during the flood period.
With a pit
The installation of an overflow pit directly beneath the water intake grate is another well-liked remedy. Typically, the structure is constructed in a prefabricated form or using monolithic reinforced concrete; nevertheless, prefabricated structures composed of stainless steel or high-strength plastic are available for purchase.
Benefits
- the possibility of arranging several connections at once in one pit;
- equipping the tank with a submersible nose;
- preventing flooding during snow melting;
- reliable cleaning of the utility network – heavy particles settle to the bottom of the pit.
Drawbacks:
- problems with the arrangement of the screed – the pit must be insulated and sealed along the entire perimeter, an inspection hatch must be installed;
- if clogged, it requires maintenance, which is carried out only from the bathhouse.
Open drain in the lower part of the wall
It is placed in the room’s corner, and the water flows through the adjacent wall—typically the facade—as it moves down the slope. Water is directed into the sewer by an outside water intake pipe.
Benefits
- simple and cheap solution;
- the utility network is serviced when clogged from the outside;
- high maintainability.
Drawbacks: an additional element on the building’s facade, and the possibility of freezing in the winter.
Typically, owners who are building permanent structures for the purpose of setting up a bathhouse will install a traditional internal drain in a tray or floor screed.
Necessary materials
In addition to basic and consumable materials, the following completed products are needed to create a drain in a bathhouse’s concrete floors:
- PVC socket pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, designed for draining wastewater.
- Fittings – angles at 90 and 45 degrees, tees, transitions.
- A water intake grate with a block tank and a branch pipe for connecting to pipes.
- A waterproofing gasket, which is arranged along the perimeter of the drain funnel.
- Cement-sand mortar, fixing the position of the pipe.
- Polymer sealant for sealing joints between the concrete screed and the drain parts, protecting the base from moisture penetration.
- If the pipe is laid in a tray – compression clamps with fasteners to reinforced concrete structures.
- To protect the structure in case of a leak – a drainage layer of coarse sand or crushed stone.
- Polymer membrane for creating a drainage layer and preventing the spread of moisture throughout the entire base under the concrete floors of the bath.
Tools needed:
- equipment for mixing concrete, nylon lace;
- bubble or laser level.
Following the drainage device, but strictly prior to pouring the floors, the outlet manifold’s fixation is verified for reliability, and the pipes’ passability and compliance with the necessary slope are examined.
In order to prevent water damage and maintain a comfortable environment, it is imperative to ensure proper slope and waterproofing when arranging a water drain in a concrete floor screed in a bathhouse. In order to properly direct water flow and maintain a dry and safe floor, this process requires careful planning and installation. You can build a long-lasting, low-maintenance drainage system that safeguards the building and the bathhouse’s occupants by using the appropriate supplies and methods.
Step-by-step instructions for the device
It is best to leave the difficult task of installing a drain in a bonton screed for a bathhouse floor to the professionals.
If this isn’t feasible, you must strictly follow this flow chart (which uses the example of a standard drain in a screed) when installing a utility network by hand.
- A sewer drainage and drainage design is being carried out, with slopes, connection points and elevations determined for each element.
- A foundation is prepared for the pipe – if the screed is not installed on a reinforced concrete slab, but on a soil base, it is compacted or partially replaced with a layer of sand and gravel mixture.
- On the wall, in the form of a marker mark or with a cord, the required drain mark is fixed, as well as the direction of the pipe with the required slope.
- The horizontal section of the pipeline is assembled on a compacted base, according to the project.
- A branch is made at the location of the funnel, which ends with a vertical section of the pipe, exceeding this level by 10-40 cm.
- The sewer network is checked by pouring it.
- The area around the future funnel is fenced with a small box made of wooden flanging.
- A screed is poured, observing all layers – hydro- and thermal insulation, reinforcement, as well as slope. Time is waited for the concrete to harden.
- In the void intended for the funnel, the pipe is cut so that the future grate is strictly at the level of the planned finished floor covering.
- The funnel is mounted in a layer of high-strength cement-sand mixture with the branch pipe connected to a vertical outlet. A layer of polymer waterproofing is also arranged under the drain. Wait for the solution to set and dry.
- The seam between dissimilar materials is treated with a sealant.
A drain grate is put on the funnel after the finished floor, like porcelain tiles, is put in place. The last step involves using silicone compound on a dry surface to seal the joint between the tile and the grate.
Possible difficulties and errors
Beginners may run into a number of issues when installing a drain in a bathhouse’s concrete floor, which could have unfavorable effects.
Experts advise considering a few crucial details to avoid this from happening:
- Violation of the slope when pouring concrete floors – the pipe must be fixed on clamps or on fixed supports made of cement-sand mortar, so as not to bend at the socket.
- Incorrect calculation of the slope, which prevents normal water flow – when designing a sewer drain, a slope of at least 3% should be taken, despite the regulatory tolerances, since over time the pipe will become overgrown with a layer of mold, soap and lime deposits, which will cause difficulties in water drainage.
- Pipe leakage after the installation of the screed – to avoid depressurization of the assembled system, each socket should be additionally treated with polymer plumbing glue or sealant.
- Mechanical damage to the pipe by a metal mesh or concrete rubble – after laying the PVC pipe, it is necessary to protect it with a layer of drainage material.
- Subsidence of the concrete floor at the place of pipe laying. It is necessary to monitor so that the position of the pipe is at least 100-120 mm below the top of the screed, and the concrete structure must be reinforced with a metal mesh with a rod diameter of at least 4 mm.
The only requirement for its regular operation is the requirement for routine utility network maintenance, which involves cleaning the pipe’s nominal passage using a hydrodynamic technique devoid of chemicals.
The bathroom floor drain will last for decades without needing to be repaired if safety regulations, a process map, and high-quality materials are followed.
Useful video
Further details regarding the subject matter of the article in the video:
Aspect | Details |
Drain Placement | Position the drain at the lowest point to ensure proper water flow. |
Drain Type | Use a drain with a removable grate for easy cleaning and maintenance. |
Slope | Create a gentle slope towards the drain to prevent water pooling. |
Waterproofing | Apply a waterproof membrane under the screed to protect against moisture damage. |
Material Choice | Choose a durable material that can withstand high moisture levels and temperature changes. |
For a bathroom, it is essential to install a suitable water drain in the screed of the concrete floor to guarantee longevity and hygienic conditions. A well-thought-out drainage system keeps water from building up, which can cause damage and the growth of mold. You can keep the environment safe and clean by managing water well.
To guarantee that water flows smoothly towards the drain, take into account the slope and placement when designing the drain. For the materials to survive the damp conditions of a bathhouse, they must be strong and water-resistant. Moreover, adding a trustworthy waterproofing layer will guard against water damage to the underlying structure.
Carefully considering and implementing these components will improve the bathhouse’s usability and lifespan. The drainage system’s continued effectiveness will be ensured by routine maintenance and inspection. Your bathhouse can continue to be a stress-free and peaceful place for many years to come with the right maintenance.