The order of laying arbolite blocks

Arbolite blocks, also known as wood concrete, are becoming more and more well-liked in the building industry thanks to their special combination of durability, insulation, and environmental friendliness. These blocks combine the strength of conventional concrete with the insulating qualities and light weight of wood chips. Knowing the proper sequence for laying arbolite blocks is crucial for a sturdy and successful construction if you intend to use them in your upcoming building project.

The first step in installing arbolite blocks is to create a level and sturdy foundation. Because it guarantees the stability and longevity of the structure, this foundation is essential. Usually, a concrete footing is poured to give the first row of blocks a stable foundation. It’s crucial to take your time and get the alignment and leveling just right at this point because it sets the tone for the entire build.

Arbolite blocks are laid in the first course after the foundation is prepared. The accuracy of the walls that follow is determined by this first layer, making it the most crucial. Every block is level and aligned thanks to precise measurement and placement. To fill in any spaces and hold the blocks in place, a thin layer of mortar is applied between each one. Applying mortar consistently contributes to the wall’s continued strength and homogeneity.

It’s important to space out the joints as you lay the next row of arbolite blocks. Similar to bricklaying, this staggered pattern strengthens the wall’s structural integrity. Check the alignment and levelness of each new row and make any necessary adjustments. By using a spirit level to regularly check the vertical and horizontal alignment, any deviations that could jeopardize the structure are prevented.

When a wall rises, reinforcement might be added, particularly for taller structures. To add more strength, this may entail putting steel rods or mesh inside the mortar joints. It’s crucial to follow your building plan and leave room for windows, doors, and other openings. It will be easier to install these elements later if these spaces are framed and positioned correctly.

Finally, to shield the wall from the elements, the top layer of arbolite blocks is capped. You can use a concrete cap or any other appropriate material for this. To improve the walls’ durability and appearance, plaster or other finishes may be applied after they are finished. The longevity of the structure is ensured by the mortar and any finishing materials being properly cured.

A methodical approach to the installation of arbolite blocks guarantees the longevity and stability of your building. Make sure the foundation is level and clean before beginning. With caution, place the first row of blocks, aligning them with a string line, and make sure every block is level. When bonding the blocks, use an appropriate mortar mixture to ensure uniform spacing and correct vertical alignment. As with bricklaying, space the joints apart to increase strength. Throughout the process, keep an eye out for plumb and level, and make any necessary adjustments right away to prevent more problems. For arbolite blocks to be used in a sturdy, dependable construction, this meticulous arrangement is essential.

Solutions used for laying arbolite blocks

The most common solution used for laying arbolite blocks is a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3. It is quite easy to prepare and use such a solution; it can also be used to easily adjust the difference in the thickness of individual blocks. The fact is that some manufacturers allow significant deviations from the established overall dimensions of the products. To smooth out this drawback, it is necessary to make the masonry joint thicker (8-15 mm): sand-cement mortar allows you to do this. All this is related to the advantages, and the disadvantage is that a thick masonry joint has a higher thermal conductivity than arbolite. And this significantly worsens the heat-saving properties of the entire structure. That is, by laying blocks on a cement-sand mortar, we get a huge number of cold bridges in the form of seams between them. In order for the building to be warm, cold bridges must be eliminated without fail.

Another solution that is used for wood concrete laying consists of a 1:1:3:2 ratio of cement, sand, and perlite (a volcanic rock). Because perlite is an effective heat insulator, it can greatly lower a masonry joint’s thermal conductivity. This removes the requirement to remove cold bridges. Furthermore, the mixture becomes more plastic due to the addition of perlite.

Crucial! You shouldn’t mix the solution in a concrete mixer too vigorously to keep the perlite from losing its properties (otherwise the perlite may "curl" into granules).

The masonry joint can be made extremely thin—down to several millimeters—by using premade adhesive compositions, which prevents the formation of cold bridges in these joints. Only when laying blocks with minimal deviations from the specified geometric dimensions can adhesive compositions be used.

First row of masonry

Proper marking and installation of the first row of masonry determines, in large part, the correct geometry of the entire structure. We locate doorways and the points where interior walls meet exterior walls in order to mark those locations. The ideal way to accomplish this is to use the actual arbolite blocks (naturally, dry and arranged without the need for mortar). Consequently, you will be able to locate incomplete (sawn) blocks and mark a row with the highest degree of accuracy.

As beacons, we start laying by positioning two complete blocks at a right angle from each corner. Because arbolite has a high hygroscopicity, we wet the dry blocks with water before laying them to prevent them from absorbing liquid from the mortar. We coat the end portion of one block and its base with the mixture. The size of the building material determines the seam’s width. A laser level is used to ensure that every installed beacon is on the same horizontal plane.

Use the most evenly spaced and matched-size products for the first row.

The last of the first row’s blocks, which serve as the foundation for the entire masonry, are then installed. We pull the construction cord between the corner blocks so that they are correctly exhibited. We coat the side of the block that will come into contact with the first in addition to the base’s surface.

Crucial! Every masonry row is examined by us.

Naturally, additional part-time blocks will be required when the walls are built. These can be easily made with an electric saw or grinder (arbolite saws easily).

Crucial! Capital blocks are positioned at intervals after being solution-coated on three sides.

Only after a day is it appropriate to lay the next row (earlier if hardeners are added to the mixture).

Second and subsequent rows of masonry

The angles must come first in the second row, as they must in every row that follows. A checkerboard pattern in the masonry is crucial (as when erecting walls from bricks). In other words, we ensure the bandaging of the rows between themselves by shifting the vertical seams relative to each other by half the length of the block. Where internal walls meet external walls, we also see the same overlapping technique. The structure is only strengthened as a result.

Counseling! Work on no more than two or three rows (first row excluded) in a day. It is then advised to take a day’s break.

Once the first four rows are formed, the window openings must be marked by first laying blocks all the way around the perimeter without using mortar. This will enable you to plan ahead and identify the locations of the cut blocks that will be used to create a checkerboard pattern and prevent the masonry’s vertical seams from lining up.

We make masonry from arbolite blocks

To install arbolite blocks:

• apply a layer of mixture;
• install a block pre-moistened with water;
• press it to the previous one (with force);
• we adjust the position of the block relative to other “brothers” using a special hammer with a rubber attachment;
• we check with a level;
• we remove excess mixture with a trowel.

In this instance, heeding the advice below is essential.:

• work can only be carried out provided that the air temperature is not lower than + 6˚С;
• it is recommended to make the solution quite thick, since if the consistency is liquid, the building material will “give” significant shrinkage;
• regardless of the consistency of the solution, it is necessary to perform seam cutting every two rows, which consists in uniformly distributing the mixture along the seams;
• if the solution has already bonded to the block, then it is prohibited to move it in any direction.

Reinforcement of masonry

Arbolite block laying requires adherence to fundamental reinforcement principles. Initially, the bottom row of masonry next to the foundation is strengthened; first row blocks are placed on a reinforcing mesh around the whole perimeter. Every three to four rows after that, the reinforcing mesh is deposited. Incorporating reinforcement during the installation of arbolite blocks enhances the walls’ strength and promotes a more even load distribution. Additionally, reinforcement stops the development of wall cracks due to the uneven shrinkage of the house.

Reinforcing belts

Reinforcing belts must be positioned around the building’s whole perimeter in order to distribute loads on arbolite blocks’ walls equally from the floors. A reinforced belt is a closed section of monolithic reinforced concrete used to support the roof’s rafter system or lay floor slabs. The load-bearing wall’s width equals the width of the reinforcing belt, and its height typically does not exceed 30 centimeters.

Formwork is constructed and fastened to the walls in order to create an armored belt. After that, we pour concrete into it and insert a metal frame.

We use prefabricated metal or reinforced concrete beams to reinforce the lintels over window and door openings. Such a lintel’s wall support should be at least 20 centimeters long on each side.

Elimination of cold bridges

Effective thermal breaks in the masonry joints are required in order to remove cold bridges that develop when using conventional cement-sand mortar (normal consistency and without any additives). There are multiple ways to accomplish this.

We use a wooden lath to break off. In order to accomplish this, we lay a lath (about 8–15 mm high and 40–50 mm wide) in the center of the block, apply mortar, and wait for it to "set" a little before removing our wooden device and forming a hollow space in its place. This creates an air cushion in the middle of the masonry joint, which will effectively block the entry of cold air into the room. The block is installed on top.

An alternative method. We use jute tape, which we lay across the entire length of the masonry in between the arbolite blocks, to remove cold bridges. After that, we lay the following row of construction materials and apply the solution to the blocks on the sides. As a result, we seal the masonry joint’s gap with a belt that blocks heat.

Crucial! It is not advised to keep the lath inside the joint "forever" because it will eventually get wet and start to rot. However, you can discard the jute tape.

We utilize foamed polyurethane mounting tape, which we manufacture from the laminate backing. The sequence of events is the same as when using jute tape.

A very economical and effective material for eliminating cold bridges can be bubble wrap. Cut off a strip 7-8 cm wide from the roll. Then cut this strip into pieces 70 cm long (block length 50 cm plus thickness 20 cm). Fold the resulting strip in 3 layers to make a bundle (about 2-2.5 cm, length 70 cm). We fasten it (using a regular furniture stapler) on the horizontal and end surfaces of each block (3 places are enough). That is, we lay the bundle in the shape of the letter "G". We apply the masonry mortar on both sides of the bundle on the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the block. The resulting cavity of air-filled porous polyethylene will be an excellent insulator that does not absorb moisture and does not react to temperature changes.

In conclusion, laying arbolite blocks requires a few simple but important steps to guarantee a sturdy and long-lasting structure. For the building to last a long time, a well-prepared foundation is the first step in the process. A crucial component that shouldn’t be disregarded is making sure the base is dry and level.

It is crucial to precisely place the first row of blocks once the foundation is ready. It will be worthwhile to take the time to properly align and level each block in this row as it sets the tone for the entire construction. Sturdy adhesion and stability are guaranteed when using a mortar mix appropriate for arbolite.

It is crucial to keep all of the rows level and aligned consistently as the construction goes on. In order to achieve a consistent and polished finish, it is helpful to regularly check these aspects using a spirit level and string line. Remember to stagger the blocks as well to increase the wall’s stability and strength.

Appropriate sealing and insulation are required to raise the structure’s thermal efficiency. Energy costs can be decreased and the ideal indoor climate can be maintained by sealing joints and filling gaps.

In conclusion, even though installing arbolite blocks might appear simple, paying close attention to every detail is essential. Every stage of the construction process, from foundation preparation to final sealing, adds to the building’s overall quality and longevity. You can make sure that the structure is durable, effective, and strong by adhering to these recommendations.

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