Step-by-step puttying of the ceiling (how to level it yourself, which mixture to choose)

Although it may not sound as exciting as a complete kitchen remodel when it comes to home improvement projects, leveling your ceiling is an essential first step toward a smooth and polished finish. You can achieve a flawless look for your room without going over budget by puttying any unsightly bumps, cracks, or uneven surfaces on your ceiling.

We’ll walk you through every step of ceiling puttying in this guide, from surface preparation to using the proper mixture for a perfect finish. We’ll go over the equipment you’ll need, the procedures to follow, and helpful hints to make the task go more smoothly. Even inexperienced do-it-yourselfers can confidently take on this task with the correct strategy.

For a smooth finish, selecting the appropriate mixture for your ceiling is also essential. We’ll go over the various kinds of putty that are available, what applications each one works best for, and how to choose the best product for you. We can handle surface problems of any size, from minor imperfections to larger problems.

Now grab a pair of gloves and prepare to turn your ceiling into a picture-perfect canvas. With the help of our detailed instructions, you will be able to complete this project on your own, saving money and time while producing results that look professional.

What you need to know about do-it-yourself ceiling puttying for beginners

Surface height changes are identified prior to puttying the ceiling. The parameter’s value determines how many material layers are needed to remove unevenness. Because the gypsum in the solution hardens in five to seven minutes, a beginner finisher should practice on a horizontally installed sheet of plywood or drywall. Gypsum has the benefit of having a soft structure that makes it possible to use an abrasive tool to smooth out irregularities, like spatula marks.

There are two types of ceiling putty: finishing (used for general leveling and to remove small cracks) and starting (used for filling in uneven areas initially). Polymer additives in the material boost its elasticity and moisture resistance. The coarse grain structure of the starting finish facilitates a faster application process.

If there is a height differential of greater than 50 mm, gypsum plaster with reinforcing mesh must be applied beforehand. When this requirement is broken, the finishing layer partially collapses and develops cracks.

Understanding the step-by-step procedure and selecting the appropriate putty mixture are essential for a flawless and polished finish if you wish to level your ceiling yourself. This tutorial will help you prepare and apply putty, from choosing the right mixture for your purposes to getting a smooth, even surface. You can approach ceiling leveling with confidence and achieve the desired results by adhering to these simple steps.

Preparatory stage for ceiling leveling

There are several tasks that must be completed in advance of leveling a plasterboard or concrete ceiling, including preparation. You will need to buy a tool in addition to removing any loose coatings (like wallpaper, whitewash, or emulsion paint) and impregnating the base with primer. Only a dry, dust-free surface can be used for puttying concrete floors; otherwise, the adhesion will be broken and the gypsum layer will come off due to temperature fluctuations and vibrations.

Choosing good tools and materials

1. An electric drill with a nozzle for mixing dry mass with water. The tool must withstand long-term use without damage, do not use a mixer with a paint layer, since enamel particles will contaminate the solution.
2. A mixture reservoir having a volume of 7-10 liters and made of stainless steel or impact-resistant plastic.
3. Metal spatulas for applying and smoothing the gypsum mortar. The tool should not have serrations, otherwise it is impossible to distribute the putty evenly. It is recommended to prepare spatulas 40-50, 200-250, 400-500 mm wide, you should choose products with ergonomic handles that do not overload the brush during work. The edges should be filed down or bent to protect the surface from unnecessary marks.
4. A laser level for assessing the difference in height, it is allowed to use a hydraulic tool, but the quality of the work performed is reduced. To prepare the ceiling for puttying, you will need a stepladder, primer and a roller for applying the impregnating composition. If you plan to clean the panels, you will need a grinder or a hand float.

Preparing the ceiling

1. Remove foreign objects from the premises, if it is impossible to rearrange the furniture, then it is necessary to close the products with a dense cellophane film.
2. Remove old coating from ceiling panels with an abrasive tool or spatula. To remove wallpaper and a thick layer of emulsion paint, wet the surface with water. To reduce dust, use an electric grinder connected to a construction vacuum cleaner with a hose.
3. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth and determine the height differences using a laser level, which will allow you to highlight areas with the maximum deviation from the horizon.
4. Before you putty the ceiling with your own hands, you need to apply several layers of primer with antibacterial additives. If there are deep cracks in the base, then the cracks should be divided with a hammer drill, primed and covered with gypsum or cement. To increase strength, lay a polyethylene reinforcing mesh in the solution.

Technology of puttying the ceiling with leveling starting and finishing putty

• mixing the solution;
• uniform application of the mass with the elimination of defects;
• identification of errors and sealing of detected depressions;
• final grinding and application of a paint and varnish layer.

Mixing the putty

The powder needs to be mixed with tap water once the master has chosen which putty to use for the ceiling and has prepped the surfaces. The manufacturer’s instructions for mixing and measuring are printed on the packaging. The dry mass must be added to the liquid after the water has been added, and the mixture must be mixed with a mixer. A thick layer that is challenging to stir forms at the bottom of a container when water is added to gypsum or cement mortar. Consequently, the solution still contains dense lumps that obstruct the work.

A dry component is added to change the mass’s density. As air bubbles enter the mixture, it is not advised to run the mixer at a high speed. Such a solution leaves voids or grooves on the surface when applied with a spatula.

Approximately 10 liters of water are needed for every 25 kg of dry material when using a gypsum base. The amount of water needed is determined by the manufacturer of the putty and the additives used. The amount of mixing that is done in portions is determined by the putty’s shelf life, which can range from 25 to 40 minutes.

The final product is homogeneous and free of lumps or leftover packing material. A spatula is placed on the surface (not submerged in the mixture) to check for doneness. When there is dust on the surface or there is insufficient moisture in the mixture, the material tends to stick to the base unevenly and doesn’t move away due to gravity. Following the process’ conclusion, the solution is mixed once more for two to three minutes before being stored for roughly five minutes. Warm running water must be used to remove any remaining mass from the mixer.

Applying the mixture to the concrete base

It takes a novice master to know how to putty a ceiling correctly. Applying the gypsum mixture begins in the corner and is done in the direction that the light flows from the window. Use a narrow spatula to apply the solution to a wide spatula. To create a homogenous roller, part of the mixture is applied to the tool blade’s surface. Next, using a spatula to scrape the ceiling, the master can putty a section of the panel. Applying requires constant force; once the gypsum solution on the blade runs out, the tool must be torn off.

Take out any leftover mixture from the spatula before applying a new portion; it can be saved for future puttying. Solution strips are applied one after the other, with a 10-15 mm overlap. Once a portion of the concrete slab has been processed, the solution is reapplied while the spatula is moved perpendicularly. After that, the stepladder is moved to one side, and the surrounding area is worked on until putty is all over the ceiling. During the process, the protrusions at the strip joints and the spatula’s corners need to be smoothed out.

After the base layer has had time to solidify, you must evaluate its quality using a 2- to 2.5-meter-long wooden or metal strip.

The mixture should be poured into the depressions that have been found and highlighted with a pencil. If required, apply one more layer of mortar (same thickness as the previous one) to completely tighten the ceiling.

If an abrasive tool was used to rub the putty, the base needs to be impregnated with a primer before the next layer is applied.

Small irregularities (such as traces from the tool’s edges) must be removed with a spatula after the final hardening process. Applying ceiling finishing putty involves starting from the corner, just like with base finish. More lighting should be installed in order to assess the coating’s quality, as the layer thickness shouldn’t be greater than 3 mm. On a level surface, the finishing mixture is applied in a circular or straight line motion, with shadows from bulges prohibited.

Using fine sandpaper, the ceiling is treated abrasively in the last step. It’s crucial to avoid wiping the finishing layer all the way down to the base layer when eliminating irregularities to prevent the formation of areas with varying levels of roughness and absorption capacity.

When illuminated with a portable lamp, a high-quality putty surface is uniformly colored (white or light gray, depending on the materials used) and does not form any shaded areas.

Puttying a plasterboard ceiling

Because the panels are smooth, finishing a ceiling covered in plasterboard sheets is made easier. After carefully cutting the end edges at a 45-degree angle with a knife and priming the plaster, the craftsman must seal the joints. Extra spatulas with a narrow working part will be needed because the ceiling surface in the rooms might have an unusual pattern (like protruding decorative sections for installing spotlights).

A novice craftsman can purchase a ready-made mixture in a plastic bucket if he is having trouble selecting putty for a plasterboard ceiling. Since the solution has a consistent consistency, applying it without adding water is not necessary. There are materials based on gypsum or cement as well as polymer mixtures, which are more expensive and have greater strength. It is essential to keep the solution in the bucket sealed off from ambient air when using polymer mastic (e.g., by closing the lid).

It is required to deepen the screw heads by 1 to 1.5 mm before beginning work. The sheet could be destroyed if the screws are tightened too much. A spatula must be used to remove any plasterboard delamination that has been discovered. Next, an acrylic primer containing antibacterial additives is applied to the surface; the liquid should fall uniformly over the areas that have been finished. Puttying the ceiling can start two to four hours after the moisture has evaporated.

The side seams should be covered with a layer of gypsum mixture (special solutions exist for gypsum plasterboard sheets), into which a mesh strip should be submerged. The reinforcing material is submerged into the gypsum mixture and the joint is leveled by repeatedly passing a spatula over it.

Without the use of a mesh, the holes from the screw heads are covered with a small spatula. Sheet flaws (such as cracked sections) are filled in with a mesh-reinforced mixture.

Because of technological limitations, the end surfaces of the sheets lack bevels; therefore, the paper and gypsum must be cut to a depth of 1-2 mm before sealing the joints. After deepening the screw heads, primer should be applied to the surfaces. The resulting groove must be filled with a gypsum mixture before the mesh is laid, completely submerging the reinforcing element in the mixture. After that, you must use a wide spatula to level the seam and give the putty one to two days to harden.

Metal perforated pads are placed on the corner edges if the ceiling has any ornamentation. In order to align the transition line from the corner to the plasterboard, the elements are adhered to the sheet surface using a solution, and the paper layer may be removed. You can move on to the ceiling’s final finishing once the mixture has solidified on the seams and other components.

Using a wide spatula, apply the 1-2 mm solution layer. First, we putty the corner next to the window, working the surface in two or three passes (just like when puttying a concrete ceiling). The sheets are treated with a hand float or 120–140 unit sandpaper after the finishing layer has solidified. Once the flaws have been leveled, the ceiling is primed to help with dust removal and enhance the paint or decorative plaster’s adherence.

Grinding and preparing the ceiling for painting

When there is no natural light available, such as in the evening or when windows are covered, grinding is done. A number of lamps are positioned on the ground to provide light in multiple directions. For processing, use an electric machine with a construction vacuum cleaner to remove dust or a hand grater with a clamp to install sandpaper or mesh.

Although the second approach is better, it will cost more to buy the necessary equipment. Construction teams use this method because it is less expensive than doing repairs yourself.

Applying a waterproof putty finishing layer is necessary if you intend to paint the ceiling. If not, there is a chance that water will wash away small pieces of the cement or gypsum mixture when the paint and varnish coating are applied. While mixing standard material, some craftsmen add a small amount of acrylic primer to the mixture (this extra ingredient has no detrimental effects on adhesion or curing time).

The ceiling is primed with a roller using a velor fur coat that does not leave surface villi on before paint is applied. The ceiling is then cleaned of fine dust. Applying three to four layers of primer with a halfway drying time is advised. Painting requires uniform force when rolling the ceiling with a roller; if you paint the ceiling more than once, the putty will peel and you will need to repaint it after the integrity is restored.

Step	Description
1. Prepare the Surface	Clean the ceiling of dust and debris. Repair any cracks or holes with a filler.
2. Choose the Right Mixture	Opt for a ready-mixed or powder putty suited for ceilings. Look for one that is easy to apply and sand.
3. Mix the Putty	Follow the manufacturer"s instructions to mix the putty. Make sure it"s smooth and free of lumps.
4. Apply the First Coat	Use a wide putty knife to spread a thin, even layer of putty over the ceiling. Let it dry completely.
5. Sand the Surface	Once dry, sand the putty with fine-grit sandpaper to achieve a smooth finish.
6. Apply Additional Coats	If needed, apply additional coats of putty, sanding between each layer until the ceiling is level.
7. Final Touches	After the final coat is dry and smooth, clean up any dust and prepare the ceiling for painting or finishing.

Although installing a smooth, level ceiling may seem difficult, it is completely doable on your own with the correct approach and a little perseverance. You can create a perfect surface from an uneven ceiling by following a methodical process. First things first: set up your workspace and choose the appropriate putty mixture. The choice of mix can have a significant impact on the application’s ease of use and ceiling adhesion.

Make sure to carefully apply the putty in thin, even layers. Applying multiple thin coats rather than one thick layer will help you avoid drips and uneven patches. Allow each layer to dry completely before sanding and applying the next one. This method ensures a smooth, even finish that will be a joy to paint.

Recall that patience is essential. Proceed slowly with the process. Sand slowly, and wait until each layer is completely dry before applying another. Your ceiling will be smooth and ready for the finishing touches if you follow these tips. Take pleasure in the accomplishment of a job well done and the polished, clean appearance of your recently leveled ceiling.

Video on the topic

Plastering the ceiling. Layer 3 cm. Unusual method # 14

How to level the ceiling. Ceiling leveling, professional advice.

Putty on smooth concrete (monolith). Is concrete contact necessary.

Applying plaster to the ceiling / How to plaster ceilings?

what and how to plaster a ceiling made of a monolith or floor slab

HOW TO LEVEL AND PUTTY THE CEILING IN THE BATHROOM FOR PAINTING. FINISHING THE BATHROOM.

No one has ever been able to putty the ceiling so easily and quickly