Pouring concrete walls and floors in the basement

Although pouring concrete floors and walls in a basement can seem like a difficult undertaking, it can actually be rewarding and manageable with the correct strategy. Having a basic understanding of concrete work is crucial whether you’re starting from scratch or remodeling an existing area. A solid, long-lasting foundation for your basement can be achieved with careful design and implementation.

The first step in the process is site preparation, which includes leveling and cleaning the area and erecting forms to shape the concrete. You’ll need strong forms for walls in order to keep the concrete in place while it sets. When it comes to floors, you should ensure that the surface is ready and that any reinforcement—like rebar or mesh—is in place.

It’s also very important to properly mix the concrete. A smooth finish and the prevention of cracks are ensured by the proper consistency. Concrete must be mixed, then poured and spread evenly. Given how quickly concrete sets, efficiency and speed are crucial. For the concrete to reach its maximum strength and durability, it must be properly cured after pouring.

You can create sturdy, dependable concrete floors and walls in your basement by following these steps and paying close attention to detail. This will pave the way for a successful building project or renovation.

Task	Description
Prepare the Site	Clean and level the area where the concrete will be poured. Remove any debris and ensure the ground is compacted.
Set Up Forms	Install wooden or metal forms to shape the walls and floors. Ensure they are sturdy and properly aligned to hold the concrete.
Reinforce	Place steel reinforcement bars (rebar) within the forms to add strength to the concrete.
Mix Concrete	Prepare the concrete mix according to the manufacturer"s instructions, achieving the right consistency.
Pour Concrete	Pour the concrete into the forms, starting from one end and working to the other to avoid air pockets.
Smooth Surface	Use a trowel or a screed to level and smooth the surface of the concrete while it"s still wet.
Allow to Cure	Let the concrete cure for the recommended time, usually a few days, keeping it moist to prevent cracking.

Why do you need to concretize the floor and walls?

Because the basement is subterranean, the walls and floors must be waterproofed and cemented. It is recommended to build a concrete screed in the following situations:

• heating the basement;
• use as a living room;
• use for arranging a workshop, gym, garage, sauna;
• placing a boiler room or similar technical rooms;
• placing a cellar for storing food;
• high soil humidity.

Decorations on the walls and ceiling, furniture, pipes, and equipment deteriorate when exposed to moist fumes from damp soil. The house might end up dangerous.

Tools and materials

The following instruments are required to complete the process:

• bucket;
• shovel;
• grater and trowel;
• foundation rammer;
• container for concrete mortar;
• grinder;
• level;
• waterproofing;
• construction tape;
• reinforcement or steel mesh;
• beacons;
• rule for leveling concrete;
• grinder with stone discs;
• trowel.

Supplies required:

• M400 cement;
• standard crushed stone;
• quarry sand;
• tap water;
• chemical additives that increase hydrophobicity, strength of concrete (if necessary).

A concrete mixer can be used as a container for mixing concrete mortar instead of a shovel. It will make the process of making a superior mixture go more quickly.

The basement’s walls and floors must be poured concrete in order to provide a sturdy, long-lasting foundation for your house. For the purpose of creating a smooth, even surface that can support the structure above, the site must be prepared, forms must be set up, and concrete must be mixed and poured. Using the right methods and paying close attention to detail during this process can stop problems like leaks and cracks in the future, guaranteeing that your basement will stay sturdy and stable for many years to come.

Technological process

There are six steps involved in creating a basement concrete floor:

1. Digging a pit of a width that takes into account the dimensions of the walls and formwork.
2. Creating a sand cushion with crushed stone.
3. Installation of formwork.
4. Laying a layer of waterproofing.
5. Reinforcement with reinforcement.
6. Pouring with concrete.

Preparing the floor for cementing

Concreting on the ground is the best choice for laying a screed in the basement. There is very little preparation work required. Simply remove any plants or debris, compact the soil, and begin screeding. The following actions should be taken when laying new flooring on top of old:

• cleaning the old coating and then identifying defects;
• eliminating cracks and chips by widening them and treating them with sand-cement or a polymer composition;
• dismantling non-repairable areas;
• adjusting differences in the height of the base with a milling machine;
• cleaning the surface from dust, otherwise the adhesion of concrete to the old floor will deteriorate.

It is advised to lay a sub-concrete layer if the previous coating cannot be used to create a perfectly flat base.

Filling the cushion and tamping

The floor is immediately tamped before being placed directly on the ground, and either crushed stone or small stones are used as a cushion. The layer will give the base strength and shield it from potential fractures. Subsequently, a 0.5–1 m layer of sand cushion is placed; this layer may lose up to 25% when additional tamping is done using a roller or vibrating machine. Backfilling needs to take this into consideration. Water is added to the sand following compaction.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is done following the cushion’s construction and ramming. The future floor’s water resistance is determined by the caliber of this work. This parameter’s height will shield the space from mold and fungus, which could cause property damage. For waterproofing, rolls of bitumen, polymer material, or thick polyethylene film are used.

The chosen material is tape-fastened after being laid out in an overlap covering the whole floor. There ought to be no spaces or fractures. Overflow is terminated. There is a 25 centimeter overlap in the wall’s waterproofing. This will keep moisture out of the joints. It is also possible to insulate the first layer of concrete from moisture. Coating insulating materials are used for this.

Laying a metal mesh

It is advised to install a reinforcing layer on the floor of a large basement to strengthen the structure. The surface needs to be divided into squares first. Next, use boards that are two to three centimeters thick to mark the area.

The chosen reinforcement is contingent upon the intended use of the space and the anticipated weight. You can use reinforcing mesh (knitted or welded) or thick metal rods. Typically, a road mesh with a 0.5 cm rod diameter is utilized.

It is also advised to use a steel rod with a cross-section of 1-1.6 cm for heavy loads. An acceptable substitute is reinforcing fiber, which is steel fiber combined with a concrete mixture.

Setting up beacons and performing a screed

Make sure the beacons are properly positioned before pouring the floor. The work completed will determine how smooth the surface is. Using half the volume of the mixture, beacons are created during the first portion’s laying stage. A rail with a risk is placed atop each elevation, which are made one meter apart. The top of the beacons is adjusted to the bottom of the rail using a level set by leveling.

The floor is screeded using a mortar that has a solution of no less than M400. Filler is made up of small pieces of granite or marble. A plasticizer or hardening is added to the first layer of masonry. A deep vibrator or a vibro-barrier is used for alignment, depending on the field of work.

Drying

Following the application of each layer of concrete, you should allow the screed to strengthen and dry. This process can take place for at least a day without any interruptions. It is advised to use the vacuum operation to quicken the solidification of concrete screed without sacrificing strength. In order to achieve this, even concrete that has been coated in air-resistant profanities is covered with a filter material. The center of the mat is joined by a vacuum pump pipe, which keeps extra moisture from setting in and preserving the screed’s quality. This method will only require seven hours to dry.

If there is still a trace, up to 4 mm, on the surface of the concrete, it has finished drying.

After the concrete has sufficiently dried, you can take out the beacons and use cement and sand to fill the grooves. It is preferable to use a piece of plywood to walk on the newly laid concrete surface. Polyethylene film is then used to cover the floor. Concrete takes 28 days to fully cure.

Grinding and grouting

Grouting extends to the center from the walls and doorways. It is advised to use a topping or concrete hardener for this. When all of the grouting material has been absorbed by the surface, the process is said to be finished. There are three iterations of the process. When a trace of up to 1 mm is still visible on the concrete, it is said to be the final stage. You will need 5 kg of grout for a screed with a light load, 8 kg for medium values, and 8 kg for colored floors per 1 m2.

How to fill walls with concrete?

It is advised to use continuous strip foundation technology to construct monolithic walls for basements. There are multiple phases to filling the structure:

• preparation of trenches;
• laying a sand cushion;
• installation of formwork;
• laying a waterproofing layer;
• reinforcement;
• pouring concrete.

After the concrete floor has completely dried, install the wall formwork. If not, the freshly laid masonry will be forced through, creating a slope.

Choosing the size of the walls

The thickness of monolithic walls is chosen based on the soil type and anticipated number of storeys of the house. The range of thickness is 20 to 40 cm.

Preparing the trench

In order to use monolithic casting technology, trenches must be dug for the basement walls. A strip foundation will be one of their components. The trenches should be between 0.4 and 0.6 meters wide and 150 to 200 meters deep.

Installing a sand cushion

At least 20 to 40 centimeters should be the sand cushion layer. This figure is contingent upon the anticipated wall dimensions and the overall weight. The layer of sand is dense. You will have to wait three days for complete compaction.

Installation of formwork

Polystyrene boards are used for permanent formwork, while wooden or aluminum panels are used for the installation of removable formwork. The latter choice then serves as a layer that insulates against heat.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the walls is necessary. The procedure is used when the concrete has reached the medium hardening stage. In order to do this, the seams connecting the walls and the floor are ground into 3 by 3 cm grooves using a grinder. There is a penetrating waterproofing material inside these grooves.

The last layer of wall waterproofing is equally crucial. The penetrating material is sprayed on or applied with a brush after the surface has been thoroughly cleaned of any grease and cement milk residue. Following that, a polymer film is applied to the wall’s joints and seams, and the area is periodically moistened for two to three days.

Reinforcement and concrete masonry of the wall

Even though high-grade concrete is strong, soil vibration can still cause the structure to partially collapse. It is advised to reinforce monolithic walls with a metal frame composed of a set of steel rods assembled into cross beams, vertical columns, and reinforcement mesh in order to prevent this.

Depending on the wall’s size, reinforcement is applied in two or three layers. Occasionally, the thick wire, mesh, and reinforcement are placed in the center, with a 15% indentation on each side from the edges. We use waterproof concrete W10 and above to fill the walls. It is appropriate to use grade M300 with strength B22.5 and workability P1 or P2. It’s crucial to join a freshly laid layer of concrete inside the formwork with a previously laid layer of still-soft concrete when building a wall.

If done properly, pouring concrete floors and walls in a basement can be a simple process that requires little to no supervision. Every stage, from site preparation to concrete finishing, is essential to guaranteeing a strong and long-lasting basement. To get the best results, make sure to follow the right procedures, which include using the right mix and making sure you have enough curing time.

You can avoid common issues and increase the lifespan of your concrete by taking care of potential problems like moisture control and appropriate reinforcement. Keeping the basement in good condition for many years to come can also be facilitated by routine inspections and maintenance.

Whether you’re renovating an old basement or creating a new one, paying close attention to detail when pouring will save you headaches later on. You can build a solid and dependable foundation that efficiently supports the remainder of your project with careful planning and execution.

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