Plinth

During construction, the plinth, or base of a building, is extremely important. It is the part of the construction that serves as a buffer between the building and the foundation by connecting the two. This seemingly unassuming component of a building actually has a big influence on how stable and long-lasting it is overall. Anyone involved in construction must comprehend the purpose and significance of the plinth.

The protection of the building from moisture and dampness is one of a plinth’s main purposes. The plinth helps keep water from penetrating into the building materials, which over time could cause structural damage, by elevating the structure above ground level. This is particularly crucial in regions with heavy rainfall or near the surface of the water table.

The plinth enhances a building’s visual appeal as well. It offers a seamless transition from the foundation to the walls and a finished appearance that can be adjusted to fit the building’s architectural style. The plinth, whether it is constructed of stone, brick, or concrete, can be a visually pleasing element that gives a building personality.

The plinth gives the building strength and support in addition to its decorative and protective roles. It lessens the chance of settling or shifting by uniformly distributing the weight of the structure across the foundation. This guarantees the building’s long-term stability and security, despite environmental difficulties.

Is it possible to fill the basement floor with reinforced concrete?

In contrast to a basement, a plinth can be placed for any kind of building or foundation in any situation, including a false one. You can always use concrete, in its many forms.

A plinth, also called foundation walls, is a section of a structure that connects the load-bearing walls to the building’s frame and sits between the foundation and the frame, enclosing the underground space. It can appear as a wall between the pillars when the foundation is made of piles. Assignments:

• To fence off the base of the building, which lies in the ground and is exposed to low temperatures, moisture, to isolate the building from adverse events, groundwater, cold. If this segment is full-fledged (performs a load-bearing function, not false), then it creates a kind of insulating layer between the foundation and the ceiling (floor) of the first floor. Without this part of the building, moisture from the ground will rise through the capillaries of the structures to it. Concrete is somewhat worse for this task than brick, since it is “colder”, however, everything can be corrected with insulating materials.
• A full-fledged base distributes the weight of the walls (for this purpose, concrete is the leader, since it is very durable). But there are also false varieties (zabirka, zavalinka) without this function – providing only aesthetics, for example, with a pile foundation. In this case, the height of the column heads above the ground is not less than 20 cm, they serve as a support for the grillage, which in turn holds the walls. The gaps between the above-ground parts of the piles are covered with a false base.
• Design function – raises the building above the ground, serves as a kind of pedestal, basement, which gives it a solid, more attractive look.

Options for the basement, variety:

• full or false;
• regular or basement floor, in other words, basement, semi-basement type;
• exploited, non-exploited;
• in relation to the outer walls recessed (the most popular), protruding (rarely found in modern houses, impractical), flush (in the same plane with them).

Since concrete comes in a variety of products with varying shapes, compositions, sizes, and geometric parameters, it can be used as the base in all situations:

1. blocks (mainly FBS, sand concrete, also known as sand-cement, less often foam, gas, with expanded clay);
2. panels, monolith.

Naturally, in the last two examples, this only refers to reinforced concrete. Concrete blocks can be either plain or reinforced.

When, in what cases it is impossible?

In every situation, a concrete base can be set up for any kind of foundation. Just as there are situations in which it is largely appropriate, there are also those in which certain building product types are appropriate.

For pile houses, for instance, the space between the columns is typically lined with lightweight cladding; however, this material can also be used in the event that an exploitable, particularly insulated space is needed.

In this design, the basement walls are constructed on a shallow tape base that is poured, trenches are cut between the columns, and formwork is installed. In this scenario, more suitable blocks would be used.

When a particularly high heat capacity is needed, builders can highly recommend a brick (he has heat, waterproofing properties are the best) based on their own experience. For instance, a low foundation tape would be appropriate for a frame with high groundwater where the base’s height above the ground is not very high.

However, concrete is also an option in these circumstances because, by default, external insulation (at least 50 mm EPPS) from cladding is placed at the junction between the foundation, before overlapping the first floor and on the base walls (in two layers). This means that concrete is a particularly high-quality isolation.

There are numerous subtleties in how different concrete building materials should be used, depending on their suitability. For instance, raising the foundation strip of a gas silicate building is typically accomplished with bricks; in this case, FBS can be used. However, if the floor is not monolithic or has no reinforcement, you will need to construct an additional armored belt; in this case, it is more dependable to construct the base out of monolithic reinforced concrete (filling).

Types of material for the structure

Concrete building material options and how to use them for a house’s foundation include:

1. By form, size, method of application:
2. monolithic concrete (pouring into formwork);
3. blocks (block masonry, prefabricated base). First of all, these are FBS blocks and sand concrete, as well as conditionally and with reservations gas-, foam-, expanded clay-, slag-;
4. monolithic basement (foundation) panels.
5. By concrete composition (i.e. expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete, cinder blocks, clean concrete, etc. d.).

There are two categories of base construction techniques: prefabricated, which includes block masonry, and monolithic.

The first guideline for choosing building materials is that you should only use those that are designated for foundation structures by GOSTs, SNiPs, and other standards, and that bear the terms "basement" and "foundation" in their markings and technical documentation. Only void-free, solid materials work well.

Block layout for a basement floor:

Monolithic

The best option for a plinth is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure because it is the most superior to all other types in terms of stability, durability, and overall excellence.

Drawbacks:

• more labor-intensive: you will need to prepare a solution, construct formwork, reinforce it, pour it;
• more materials will be required, the strongest grades of cement;
• more expensive than all options (the price for an average private house can reach 3 million. rub.).

Benefits

• unconditionally the best, reliable, thorough, high-quality, durable of all possible options;
• without seams, the insulating qualities are the highest among concrete products for plinths;
• no additional reinforcement required: armored belts, spacers, etc.;
• heaving and indentation forces do not affect it.

Using the following example, let’s compare foundation blocks (FBS) with a monolith. The forces of frost heaving the soil and squeezing out the base may pose some threat. Given that the two materials weigh nearly the same, this risk is not as great; however, for blocks, it is greater.

However, because FSB is less solid, there is a greater chance that it will press against the house when placed on sandy soils. Internal partitions are made to stop this. However, the above poses no threat to the monolith. Furthermore, the solid pouring has no seams and the hydro and heat-insulating properties are deteriorated by the joints between the blocks.

When compared to other concrete materials, the monolithic method has a significant cost disadvantage, which is why it is frequently abandoned in favor of blocks and slabs. That is about the same as what it would cost to build a strip foundation. However, there are ways to build such a base more affordably: create monolithic external walls and block internal partitions.

From blocks

For the base, only FBS (where "C" stands for "solid") and sand-concrete (sand-cement) solid foundation blocks are acceptable.

The others—gas, foam, expanded clay, and slag—are all acceptable, but only under very specific restrictions. Even inexperienced builders view such an endeavor as frivolous and highly dubious. They work well as a backfill, but there are many cautions and reservations when it comes to full-fledged structures; the owner of such a structure is afraid of the risks involved.

The following are the causes: aerated concrete is porous, absorbs moisture, conducts it, freezes, and is brittle. The term "blocks" refers to a broad range of products with varying composition and structure:

• FBS (foundation wall blocks) and sand concrete (sand-cement);
• gas, foam, slag, expanded clay concrete.

Out of all the blocks, FBS and solid sand-cement blocks are the best choices for building a basement. They are easier to work with and less expensive than monolithic blocks. They are typically used with widths of 40 and 60 cm and dimensions of 2380 x 400 x 580 and 2400 x 600 x 400 mm. Standard sizes are available for various wall sections (FBS 24-4-6, 12-4-6, 9-4-6, 8-4-6).

Minuses:

1. a crane is required for installation;
2. such a design is somewhat worse in terms of heat capacity and strength than a monolith, since there are many seams.

In the event that we give a brief demonstration of the technology, the blocks are analogously arranged like bricks on top of the mortar.

There are restrictions and cautions for other kinds of blocks. According to certain experts, a base can be constructed out of expanded clay concrete, slag, foam, and gas. It’s true that moisture and freezing will weaken them gradually but relatively quickly, and there’s no guarantee that problems won’t arise in the future.

Let’s examine the key elements and cautions regarding the use of foam-gas blocks and related materials:

• Extremely reliable waterproofing will be required, as well as external cladding. But it is not a fact that it will help. Very high-quality overhangs of the main walls of the building, a blind area with drainage, drains are recommended to minimize precipitation.
• Such materials can be quite durable, but the problem is that they will let moisture and cold through, cold bridges will appear, and no insulation will fix this. Have increased porosity (this is cellular concrete), that is, they accumulate water that will leak into the basement and the house, there will be: freezing, mold, fungus, efflorescence.
• More prone to being squeezed out of the soil by heaving forces, pressed into the structure, since they are lightweight. Because of this, such blocks will lose their strength, heat-insulating, and other properties, they will become brittle, crack, and collapse.

There are examples on the Internet of cellular concrete bases lasting four to six years without any issues. Yes, this is noticed, but usually only under ideal circumstances and with excellent work.

For instance: the base is sufficiently raised above the ground (starting at 20 cm), the weather is dry, the relief and soil are ideal, and adequate drainage is in place. However, even in these situations, there is a good chance that something bad will happen, and in more dire and challenging situations, issues will probably come up sooner rather than later. Furthermore, the time frame given is insufficient to allow for an evaluation.

The only time GB is really acceptable is in very high-quality cases, such as when it has a density of 600, a concrete consistency of B7.5, a frost resistance of 100, and superior insulation and cladding.

However, such material is more expensive and harder to find on the market. It is advised to focus on monolithic concrete, FBS blocks, or solid sand-cement blocks for the basement; in severe situations, slabs may be used; however, products made of weak and/or cellular mortar and similar materials should not be considered.

Legislative actions verify the aforementioned. It is not advised to use gas, foam concrete, or comparable types for foundation constructions. Here are a few excerpts:

Blocks may be used in accordance with SNiP II-22-81 "Stone and Reinforced Stone Structures," but SP 15.13330 details these requirements and places them within a specific context: Additional cautions and limitations are added to the ones mentioned above when expanding clay or cinder concrete is taken into account.

• For small-sized buildings, small frame houses: baths, garages, one-story residential buildings with an attic. In any case, the structure should not be higher than 3 floors..
• If expanded clay concrete, then these are only solid blocks with a strength grade of M75 or better. Cinder concrete should have similar parameters.

One more thing: building a monolith is preferable in this situation as it requires an armored belt, so FBS and walls composed of gas-foam blocks are not the ideal combination. Additional details are available here.

Reinforced concrete panels

After FBS (also known as sand-concrete blocks) and monolith, panels can be ranked third in terms of quality. Slabs of reinforced concrete are used as "foundation," "basement," and occasionally as "walls," but at least one of the terms listed above must be used. In other words, PS, expanded clay concrete and similar materials won’t work, but road concrete can be utilized because its specifications are occasionally even better.

This content:

• cheaper than FBS;
• work is much faster, since the parts are put together like a constructor;
• the level of labor intensity and costs is lower, but it is necessary to take into account the need for special equipment not only for unloading and loading operations, but also for installing the elements.

Simply taking wall panels won’t cut it; you also need to take foundation panels because plinth materials operate in very challenging conditions, frequently in constant moisture. They are composed of fiber concrete in durable classes, like B30, which has a high resistance to moisture.

Making a plinth out of panels of reinforced concrete:

1. Panels are placed on the foundation on a layer of mortar, which levels out micro-irregularities, seals the seam, and are secured with temporary braces. Verticality is checked with a level. Then – fixation to the foundation with anchor screws (galvanized steel, 10 mm).
2. The panels are fastened together with thicker anchors (14 mm).
3. If necessary, reinforcing columns are installed, also fixed with the specified fasteners.
4. The joints between panels are sealed with polyurethane foam compounds.
5. After assembling the base box, floor slabs with built-in thermal insulation on the outside are installed on it. They are also placed on mortar and secured with anchors.
6. Then waterproofing is installed: a layer of "primer" (the name of the waterproofing comes from the brand name of the manufacturer) is applied to the outer surface, followed by a 2-layer adhesive material, which is heated for better adhesion.

Although we looked at a slab foundation base with reinforced concrete panels above, a similar technology can be applied to any other kind of foundation, including pile filling. There may be slight variations in the standard size and installation technique. For example, products may have unique protrusions that fit into one another during assembly.

Benefits

• cheaper than monolith and FBS, even despite the fact that special equipment is required;
• the fastest way (assembly will take only a few days);
• simple, labor-intensive work (if you do not take into account the moment with special equipment): you do not need formwork, and also do not need to lay a large number of segments, as in the case of blocks;
• excellent thermal insulation.

Drawbacks:

• the method is not available for independent implementation, since you will need a truck crane;
• worse in heat capacity than monolith and blocks;
• strength is also lower, susceptibility to indentation and heaving forces is high, which requires reinforcing struts, high-quality connection with floor slabs;
• this method is positioned as the most unreasonable, for the rapid construction of cheap housing. However, the level of reliability and strength of such a structure is often underestimated.

When building a basement with panels made of reinforced concrete, the structure must be kept as safe as possible from:

1. lateral soil loads (especially in clay, sand);
2. from shifts due to frost heaving.

In this instance, this may cause the slab to crack or fracture in addition to squeezing or pressing in.

A lot of anchors are used to solve problems, and it’s also assumed that a concrete floor will be poured between each of these components to act as a spacer. The details are connected to the floor panels at the top that are secured with screeds to form a hard drive and create a spacer at the top.

Due to its slightly lower heat capacity and slightly increased susceptibility to the effects of soil loads, the base of the panels is less popular than monolith and FBS, despite their high practicality and low cost. However, as we mentioned above, these drawbacks are eliminated.

A detailed article about building a concrete zhB base can be found at the provided link.

Varieties in composition

Only these kinds of materials are appropriate for the home’s basement:

• Concrete blocks made of material not cellular, not easy. The products are only foundation, basement (non -wall, etc.).
• Only full -bodied, without voids.

In summary, there are only three product types available for the base: foundation (base) panels, FBS or sand-cement blocks with identical characteristics, and monolithic pouring, which is the best choice.

We have eliminated foam-gas concrete, cinder blocks, and expanded clay from this list because, while they are occasionally utilized for technical buildings, they can only be used under certain conditions and come with a number of warnings. They are not always advised by experts.

Concrete of at least grade M200 is used for monolithic pouring, but M300 or stronger is preferred due to its greater dependability. It is better if this parameter is higher.

Tools and consumables for construction

It is assumed that the foundation has already been built when building a plinth. Let’s take the building of a monolithic structure on a strip foundation as an illustration.

What you’ll need to make a monolithic plinth is as follows:

• Dry concrete mix, water for its preparation or ready-made solution delivered from the plant in a concrete mixer truck. If the material will be created on site, then the ingredients for it are prepared: sand, cement, water.
• Electric concrete mixer. If the solution is ordered ready-made from the factory, it will be delivered by a special vehicle;
• Equipment for pouring: you can use a board, a trough made of hard material. A concrete mixer on wheels, so there should be no difficulties with moving it and these parts around the perimeter of the formwork.
• Reinforcement bars, tying wire for them and a tool for it (you can tie it manually). Use rods with a cross-section of 10 … 14 mm.
• Materials for formwork and tools for its assembly or construction. There are ready-made reusable kits that can be rented. But you can also create formwork from boards or thick moisture-resistant plywood, then you will need the specified materials, as well as a hammer, nails, bars for stiffeners and supports.
• Level, tape measure, pencil, marker, thread or cord for marking.
• Usual auxiliary tools: shovels, buckets, trowels, trowel, rules.
• Vibrating compactor for concrete, a pin to pierce it to remove air pockets, a film to cover the moistened solution during the hardening period.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring on a strip foundation

On a strip foundation, a plinth can be built either concurrently with it or subsequent to its creation. In the first example, the process is the same as for laying a foundation: just build high formwork and a belt of reinforcement.

Both the base and the plinth structure are poured at the same time, meaning that they are assembled together. While some experts think this is the most practical and optimal approach, others advise building the plinth separately and later, when it will allow for the installation of a waterproof layer between it and the foundation. However, based on the reviews, there doesn’t seem to be much of a difference, and pouring them all at once is frequently more convenient.

In order to prevent the concrete’s qualities from declining during distillation, it is poured into multiple locations rather than being dispersed from a single location. Always poured all at once. Then, the guidelines are the same: bayoneting, wetting, covering with polyethylene, and using a vibrating rammer. When the base is created after the foundation, a selection can be made. This may be the result of the building owner’s personal reasons as well as other factors, such as delays in delivering building materials or the absence of formwork that is the right height.

Let us examine this possibility:

• Formwork for the base can be made 7-30 days after pouring the foundation strip, the solution must gain at least 70% of its strength.
• If a base is planned, then reinforcement outlets from the foundation are always left at its height or sufficient so that they can be tied to its rods.
• It is implied that the upper surface of the foundation is already with waterproofing. Example: liquid mastic Bitumen Primer, after drying, the corners are coated with bitumen. Then the fused waterproofing is glued. Reinforcement rods remain sticking out through these materials.
• The reinforcement is tied, and if the base is wider than the foundation, such a widening is additionally covered with it (the rods are taken longer, they make a larger mesh from them). A protective layer of concrete is provided for the rods – there are special plastic pads for this. In our example, both transverse and longitudinal rods with a cross-section of 10 mm were used, the step of the first is 300 mm, the second – 6 pcs. per 100 mm of expansion.
• The formwork is assembled, pulled together with studs, checked with a level, all irregularities are planed with a plane. You can use the same boards that were used for the foundation, cutting them if necessary. Old studs may not fit if the base is wider, so the formwork at the bottom can be connected with them, and pulled together at the top on the reinforcement, so as not to buy new such longer fasteners.
• Concrete is poured, it is bayoneted, vibration compacted.
• Reinforcement is inserted in the form of the letter G or releases of 0.7 m in length are left for fastening the floor slabs. After hardening, another waterproofing is carried out (similar to how we described), these are installed panels.
• Next, external waterproofing, insulation and cladding of the base are carried out, the ebbs are attached.
• A blind area with drainage (wall or, in special cases, sheet drainage) is constructed to level out the heaving forces when the soil freezes, to prevent water from getting onto the plinth and foundation. A trench 40–60 cm deep is dug along the perimeter of the foundation strip, the bottom is covered with geotextile, 5 cm of large crushed stone is poured, a drainage pipe is laid, and the same is poured on top. A branch is attached to the hose to a well where a low-power pump is located.

Impregnation and waterproofing

Applying a liquid impregnation to concrete, which seals the material’s pores, is a highly recommended first step in addition to equipping the plinth’s walls with standard waterproofing. Kinds of conceptions:

• Ironing. The simplest method. Consists of applying concrete milk to the surface, which seals the pores. This method has the least efficiency, effective only for above-ground structures, but it is better than nothing.
• Adding sodium liquid glass Na2O(SiO2) to the cement-sand solution. We will obtain moisture-resistant concrete with a short setting time (up to 30 minutes.). It is often used to cover the seams of water wells, block foundations, and cracks in basements. The mixture is diluted again with water 1:1 and applied to the surface with a brush, roller, spray. It is important to dilute this mixture as we indicated, since without this the liquid glass will penetrate only 2 mm deep. If the substance is more liquid and several repeated treatments are made, then this figure will increase to 15 – 20 mm.
• Hydrophobic silicone-based primers. There is one drawback – they are applied only to dry material.
• Crystallizing agents. The most effective.

The best impregnations are those that crystallize, such as Penetron and Kristallizol. Instead of bringing the material in to fill the pores, they make it there. 40 to 60 cm will be penetrated by such impregnation. In addition, there is an antibacterial effect, efflorescence, mold, and mildew are eradicated, and frost resistance rises.

Since the pores will vanish, this composition will also help the concrete’s compressive strength. This is another type of self-healing waterproofing in which crystals of calcium salts form as soon as water starts to seep through microcracks. The mixtures can be applied to raw, damp materials.

Additional waterproofing for the base:

• Rubber materials and special membranes are laid along cold joints (between the walls of the basement and the building, near the ceilings).
• On the wall – fused film in 2 layers.

Because there are numerous joints in this option, it is especially important to create high-quality waterproofing. Each joint should be coated and treated separately with impregnation.

Possible difficulties and errors

Errors and challenges encountered when creating a monolithic base:

• Does not take into account the quality of the soil. For example, for clayey, heaving soils that freeze, with upper groundwater, it is better to build a monolithic foundation, since blocks, and even more so slabs, are more susceptible to shifts. However, the problem can be solved with spacers, partitions, armored belts.
• The whole set of standard mistakes when working with concrete: flimsy formwork, not vibrating, pouring only through one point, not at once. And also non-compliance with the rules of care during hardening: not moisturizing after 3-4 days, not covering with film.
• Violation of reinforcement rules: too thin rods, incorrect spacing of rods, protrusion of their edges, that is, not covering with a protective layer of concrete.
• Poor quality waterproofing, failure to provide a blind area with drainage, poor sealing of cold joints, for example, between the basement and the walls of the building.
• The absence of external cladding with insulation – for concrete, these measures are mandatory, since it is colder than brick. Errors in thermal insulation, among other things, will be fraught with the fact that the base will take heat from the entire first floor, and if there is a heated floor, then the effect from it will be extremely low.
• You should not start work in early spring and leave it for the winter.
• Incorrect calculations for the width of the fill. Calculations should be done by a specialist, taking into account the weight of the building, the quality of the soil, the depth of groundwater.
• Failure to arrange vents – they should be for ventilation (for this, 50 mm pipe sections are mounted in the fill at ground level).
• Incorrect backfill will cause dampness.
• Incorrect installation of floors can lead to cracks in the foundation walls.

Finishing, insulation, water drainage

For a building’s base, concrete’s low heat capacity and low thermal efficiency are its main—and possibly only—disadvantages. Concrete is also a cold material. The need for exterior finishing with insulation is not even addressed if this material is intended to be used.

The following will be included in the basement finishing concept:

• blind area with drainage;
• finishing with hydro and thermal insulation;
• drains.

Finishing is less important for brick; in some situations, it can be left unfinished. However, for concrete, it is essential, and the best quality is required; otherwise, the subterranean will be frigid and will absorb heat from the first floor.

Furthermore, it will be difficult to minimize this process with heating because it will be so obvious. Thus, the quality of the external finishing with insulation and waterproofing is a major consideration when evaluating a concrete basement.

Blind area, drainage

The blind area is a strip that runs the length of the house’s perimeter. It acts as a plane to direct water flow to distant areas and/or prevents it from penetrating the structure. Because it can be insulated, this design prevents the base and foundation from heaving, including when the soil freezes, and from getting wet.

As a result, the cladding’s lifespan is increased and its high degree of insulation is maintained. Such a strip has a minimum width of 60 cm and a maximum depth of 30 to 40 cm.

Paving slabs could only be laid on a monolithic coating (concrete) until recently; asphalt was used less frequently. Usually, a tilt from the house works for them. Two options emerged with the introduction of new materials (geotextiles of impenetrable membranes):

• Monolithic. The finish layer is continuous and sealed, from which water rolls into drainage or to the ground.
• Soft. The coating is permeable, but its base is sealed, moisture seeps from the surface, through the membranes into the drainage pipe, and from there it is diverted to a convenient place.

Soft blind areas are more efficient because they absorb water quickly, but they also require more work because drainage must be included into the design. The fact that walking on it will be difficult is another drawback.

Small gravel, screenings, and coarse quartz sand make up the backfill, which can be seeded with lawn grass. Hard materials can also be laid, though, and water will seep through them and into the drainage system.

There is never a tight connection made between the blind area and the base. Additionally insulated, this part of the home upgrade typically uses extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, penoplex). This unique material, which is totally resistant to moisture, is used for foundations with a thickness of 50 mm, or more precisely 50x600x1200.

Soft blind area covered with artificial stone, but with a hard coating (the "pie" is layered, starting at the bottom):

• Penoplex 5 cm thick.
• Geotextile density from 150.
• Drainage pipe with holes all over the body and with special plastic corners. It is placed near the penoplex, as in the photo from below, and fill it with rubble. Then it is wrapped in geotextile with the end placed on the insulation. The hose is led out through a trench with a geomembrane into a drain (well, etc.), covered with crushed stone on top.
• Next: 30 cm of coarse sand and 6 cm of crushed stone (large for paving), leveling layer of sand 4-5 cm.
• Install curbs, concrete them, place special water collectors near the drain pipes from the roof.
• Finishing coating – artificial stone tiles.

Insulation and cladding

Choices for the basement cladding’s final layer:

• the highest quality materials: tiles, artificial and natural stone, stamped concrete;
• practical ones of average quality: simple and thermal panels (blocks with integrated insulation), as well as siding (including galvanized steel), flat slate;
• lower quality, economical, budget:

• painting (used only with other materials, for example, on a mesh embedded in glue, on plaster on it);
• CSP (cement-bonded particle board covered with an antiseptic), plasters on a mesh (decorative, cement-sand mixtures for outdoor work).

It is more convenient to attach materials to the lathing for the cladding because it creates a space for the insulation in the ventilation gap caused by uneven surfaces. Plaster and similar compositions require a frame in order to be held and strengthened. There are situations where the lattice is unnecessary, particularly on smooth surfaces.

When it comes to materials, the best and most resilient options are ceramics, fiber cement, concrete, and stone. Their strengths, resilience, and beauty are their advantages. Drawbacks: expensive, heavy weight, necessitates lathing, makes work more difficult.

Siding (copper, aluminum, and steel) and polymers come in second; although they have a slightly lower quality and a shorter lifespan, they are more practical, less expensive, and simpler to install. Painting, cement particle board, and decorative plaster are the least expensive options. The thin layer, low strength, fragility, and sensitivity to mechanical and climatic influences are the obvious drawbacks.

The basement panels, which are composed of steel, fiber cement, porcelain tile (artificial stone), plastics (polypropylene, vinyl, and other polymers), are a great solution. There are heat tiles, which are blocks or modules with an integrated layer of decoration and insulation. These alternatives can be fastened to self-tapping screws or dowels.

Fundamental walls of the house

The option is economical with weak insulation (its role will be performed by facing materials):
For the base, extremely recommended cladding options with reliable insulation, the next method uses not a metal, but fiberglass grid in 2 approaches:
With a monolithic base, the surface is flat and if you decide to use painting or granular decorative plaster as a finish, you can do without a metal mesh. Basic reinforcement is enough: soak it with a deep penetration primer, then apply a thin layer of glue and embed the façade fiberglass mesh into it. After drying – primer again and then apply granular plaster or paint in the number of layers recommended by the manufacturer (usually at least two).

When it comes to insulating qualities, the cladding with lathing is the best available. The cladding is nailed onto the frame (subsystem), which is made up of strips of metal or wooden planks that are screwed to the concrete. Insulation is then placed between the cladding and the wall.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Insulation is installed. EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is often used for this role, which can be additionally coated with a deep penetration primer. Fastened with glue plus doweling. Sometimes a “fur coat” is made before it – a spray of cement-sand mixture – which will improve the insulation;
2. A metal (galvanized profile) or wooden (50×50 bars treated with an antiseptic) lattice is created, fixed to the surface with the same dowels. In fact, it is not a grate, but two parallel guides. If the material is heavy or large in height, then three such strips can be installed. Orientation of the strips: under the vertical strips of cladding – horizontal, and vice versa;
3. Siding and panels are fixed to the lathing with screws.

This option is also possible: EPS, plaster on a grid and tiles.

Ebbs

Roof overhangs, blind area and ebbs are mandatory, since they drain water that flows indirectly or directly as the main factor in the destruction of the base and foundation. Ebb is a small cornice or canopy strip like a window sill with a sufficient protrusion (width on average from 5 to 40 cm) in front of the base of the building, immediately along the line where it begins. Its task is similar to roof overhangs – to lead out to the street.

If the base or its cladding extends past the wall’s plane, the ebb is finished. It is not fitted for recessed structures or flush with the walls, though it could work in those situations as well. In the absence of such a canopy, moisture will not only land on the cladding but also trickle down it, seeping into the concrete and causing freezing, which will greatly exacerbate the condition of the insulation and finishing or even ruin it entirely. The foundation will also sustain harm in addition.

Types of ebb tides according to materials

• Polyvinyl chloride. Cheap, easy to install, resistant to aggressive environments, wide range of designs available. This is a budget but practical solution. The material has ideal waterproofing properties. Durable, but inferior to concrete and metal in this parameter. Cons: fragility, impossibility of repair.
• Concrete. Traditional, time-tested material. The grade of mortar used is M400 and stronger with crushed stone and plasticizers, giving it special hardness. The leader in strength and durability, the most reliable, resistant to temperature changes, freezing. Disadvantage: bulky, difficult to install, must be provided for at the design stage, has a certain fragility, tendency to cracks, chips.
• Clinker tiles better than concrete, but it has the same disadvantages – high cost and difficulty in installation. The advantages are the same: high quality, durability, solidity, solidity, beautiful texture and texture.
• Metal. In terms of quality, this is an option between concrete/tiles and polymers. Galvanized steel, bare or polymer-coated aluminum, as well as copper are used. This metal is resistant to any conditions. There is a separate plus – reasonable price and ease of installation. The only downside is that it has a somewhat laconic appearance.

In order to provide extra moisture insulation during low tide, the foundation’s protrusion—especially if it is rough—must first be leveled using a cement screed mixed with liquid glass. Put another way, create a slope, preferably with an incline.

Concrete and tile (clinker) installation tides:

1. It is installed simultaneously or before the cladding of the house, since adjusting the sizes is difficult. Although clinker can be cut with a special cutter;
2. Make markings.
3. Start installation from the corner.
4. Apply a special adhesive solution for outdoor work based on cement to the ebb and press it to the markings.
5. After drying, all seams and joints are sealed.

Installing the polymer and metal ebb:

1. Mounted after completion of all cladding work, and it is also desirable that the roof is finished.
2. Horizontal markings. Find the highest point of the base, set the horizontal with a laser level, pull a thread along the wall (make a line with a pencil). Along this mark, we will attach the upper bend of the ebb.
3. Start installation from the corners. Elements for external and internal corners may not be included in the kit, if such products are found, then cut them.
4. After the corners are made, attach the plates to straight sections. Overlap at least 10 cm.
5. We make holes in the bends with a drill at intervals of 300 – 500 mm. We apply segments and screw or nail them according to the markings.
6. The extensions are attached after installing the main planks. All connections and joining gaps near the walls are treated with sealant.
7. After securing the strips, weights are placed on them in increments of 40 – 50 cm.

Rain and other similar sounds will be reduced if the ebb is firmly positioned on a polyurethane foam backing. In the event that the slope is created without a slope, either the same board or a narrow board is used.

Remember that foam expands, so don’t fill the cavity all the way when using it. Instead of using standard self-tapping screws to attach the ebbs, they use a press washer and a polymer coating that matches the shade. It is necessary to waterproof the slope where the plates will be placed (spray foam, liquid glass, etc.).

This is a comprehensive article about concrete castings.

Pros and cons of a concrete structure

The best option is traditionally up for debate: brick, concrete, or stone. Naturally, the first material is the best, but because of its exorbitant cost and difficulty in use, it is not often utilized. As a result, they typically contrast the final two.

The benefits and drawbacks of using concrete as opposed to brick for a basement:

Brick	Concrete
It is considered the best in its insulating properties, it has the heat capacity better. Such a base will not freeze in a layer of hoarfrost, ice. It will be better to hold the underground underground, the risk of cold bridges (including in the form of a cold floor) will be minimal. You can not clarify, do not insulate – this is recommended, but less relevant.	Waterproofing and insulation must be done, it must be and it should be especially of high quality. These measures completely eliminate the minus in the form of poor heat capacity and compare two materials. And given the rest of the advantages of concrete, it comes to first place. In addition, it is advisable to insulate the brick, although sometimes they do without it.
It is difficult to find high -quality brick for the basement. There are many fakes on the market. The price is high.	High-quality concrete is more affordable and cheaper.
Service life is lower than that of concrete	Longer lasting and much stronger.
The work is slower, you need to monitor the evenness and correctness of the masonry.	Construction will be much faster.
Regarding the complexity and complexity of the work, each material has its own nuances: with brick, you need to mess with the solution and masonry, with concrete – with formwork, reinforcement, it is difficult to build purge. But if blocks are used, then, undoubtedly, it is much easier to work with them.

The plinth is a fundamental element of any building, acting as a vital interface between the walls and the foundation to offer stability and weather resistance. By raising the building above the surface, it protects against moisture and soil erosion and uniformly distributes weights to avoid structural damage. A plinth’s style and composition are essential in augmenting a structure’s resilience and visual allure. When building a home, business, or any other kind of structure, it’s critical to recognize the significance of a well-built plinth to guarantee durability and longevity.

Average price

A plinth and monolithic concrete are always more expensive; they are somewhat less expensive from FBS. The first, which is 100–120 square meters in size, will set you back between $900,000 and $1 million. 200 thousand rubles, and 20,000–24,165 rubles for a cube measuring one meter.

The type of foundation the base will be built upon, the caliber of the cladding, and the insulation (finishing costs approximately 400 rubles per square meter) can all have an impact on the final price. Costs occasionally exceed two million rubles.

A foundation is slightly more expensive than a base when considering the costs associated with excavating a pit and preparing its bottom, but otherwise, the prices are comparable when comparing bases made of the same materials.

A monolithic slab will cost a quarter less than FBS, making it an affordable and quick option.

Feature	Description
Definition	A plinth is a base or platform that supports a structure, such as a column, pedestal, or statue. It is an important architectural element that provides stability and elevation.
Materials	Plinths can be made from various materials including concrete, stone, brick, or wood. Concrete is often preferred for its durability and ability to withstand harsh weather conditions.
Purpose	The primary purpose of a plinth is to distribute the weight of a structure evenly across the ground, reducing the risk of settlement or shifting. It also raises the structure above ground level, protecting it from moisture and decay.
Applications	Plinths are commonly used in residential and commercial buildings, monuments, bridges, and other structures. They can also be decorative, adding to the aesthetic appeal of a building or space.
Construction	Building a plinth typically involves preparing a solid foundation, pouring concrete, and ensuring proper curing. Careful measurement and leveling are crucial to ensure stability and longevity.

Realizing the function of a plinth in construction can improve a building’s longevity and aesthetic appeal considerably. It serves as a barrier against moisture, preventing any possible harm to the building. A plinth can enhance a building’s structural integrity and energy efficiency with careful design and implementation. To guarantee that the plinth fulfills its purpose, proper material and design selection is crucial.

Furthermore, a well-built plinth enhances a building’s overall aesthetics. It gives the walls and the ground a smooth transition by acting as a transition. Any material—concrete, brick, or stone—can be used to customize the plinth to your desired architectural style. Focusing on the final elements, like color and texture, can improve its aesthetic appeal even more.

Finally, for the plinth to function properly over time, regular maintenance is essential. Checking for cracks, moisture intrusion indicators, and other possible problems can avert future, more involved repairs. You can shield the structure from structural problems and increase the building’s lifespan by making sure the plinth is maintained.

Video on the topic

Simple TIP about the CORRECT HEIGHT of the basement and secondary REBOUNCE of water from the BLIND AREA.

We took a HUGE BASE with an ARMOPOYAS and started building in the HEAT + 50!

COMPARING THE BASE OF A HOUSE made of BRICK and CONCRETE. Which is better? Features of construction. Cost.

The basement WILL TURN THE HOUSE INSIDE OUT! / How to finish the basement and keep the facade intact?

5 ways to cheaply and beautifully finish the basement of a private house / How to sheathe a pile foundation?

Finishing the basement with facade panels