Methods for leveling a concrete floor under linoleum with your own hands

Before installing linoleum, a concrete floor must be leveled. In addition to producing unsightly effects, uneven surfaces can eventually harm flooring. Thankfully, there are a few techniques you can employ to make sure your floor is level and prepared for installing linoleum.

Whether you’re addressing small flaws or bigger problems, the appropriate strategy can make all the difference. Every technique, from conventional sanding methods to self-leveling compounds, has advantages and is appropriate in certain circumstances. Depending on your level of DIY experience and the state of your floor, you can choose the best one.

This tutorial will show you different approaches to leveling a concrete floor under linoleum and provide pointers to ensure a polished appearance. A flawlessly smooth surface can be achieved with a little work and the appropriate equipment, laying the groundwork for a stunning and long-lasting linoleum floor.

How and how to level a concrete floor under linoleum

There are various methods for repairing a concrete floor to accommodate linoleum. Every one of them is appropriate for specific operating environments, the kind and extent of flaws, and the characteristics of the repair job. All three techniques can be applied to repairs; they don’t call for a lot of specialists or specialized equipment.

1) Self-leveling floor: self-leveling mixtures that flow are used. The screed is incredibly simple to apply: the material is just poured onto the surface and spread evenly throughout the area, filling in all of the voids, fissures, and bumps. Since the unique quality of these solutions is their ability to take the desired position without external intervention, there is no need to manually level the surface.

2) Semi-dry screed: Using a viscous leveling mixture, the material is manually spread level to level. The grouting process is the next step, which involves applying a unique finishing mixture to the screed.

3) Dry screed: this type of surface is primarily made of sheet materials and is laid out atop a leveled clay embankment.

The most dependable and long-lasting screeds are semi-dry and wet ones; they don’t mind abrupt changes in moisture or temperature but do need time to dry. Because it uses gypsum fiber or wooden sheets instead of concrete, dry screed is more expensive, more prone to moisture, and takes 1-2 days to install, but it is stronger than its concrete counterpart.

The old floor covering is taken apart, the base is inspected for chips, cracks, and wear, the surface is cleaned, and any dust and debris are carefully removed before the floor is leveled. Next, apply one of the leveling techniques, give it the necessary amount of time, and install the linoleum.

Why is this necessary

Leveling the concrete floor beneath the linoleum is essential. A versatile material, linoleum has a porous rubber structure that is supported by a backing. If you place it on an unprepared surface with depressions, bumps, and variations in base level, it will quickly just tear in the deformed areas and be unable to bear the force.

Because of its poor adhesion, linoleum does not respond well to variations; even in the case of smooth irregularities, it will still deform. Furthermore, abrupt irregularities have the ability to instantly fracture materials that cannot bear concentrated tensile loads.

Leveling methods

Examine the benefits and drawbacks of each method before selecting how to level a concrete screed prior to installing linoleum. The most common method for leveling floors is to use a cement screed and self-leveling mixtures to lay chipboard or plywood sheets. The operating characteristics of the premises, the estimate, and the quality of the concrete base (size, number of deformations) all influence the choice of a particular method.

Method 1: leveling the base with slab materials

The technique works well with floors that have a significant amount of flaws, variations, and irregularities in their base. The quickest and most straightforward method of leveling a floor with your hands is to lay down sheets of chipboard or plywood. It uses specialized plywood that has been impregnated with substances that resist moisture.

Typically, sheets that are between 10 and 14 millimeters thick are chosen and screwed onto previously installed logs. Horizontally equalized lags play the role of square wooden bars with sections measuring 4-5 centimeters, which have been impregnated with antiseptic compositions beforehand. placed with the ideal step so that the plywood sheets land in the center of the bars.

Beacons are placed, and a damper tape is adhered to the room’s edge. Expanded clay or quartz sand are then used to cover the floor; polystyrene foam is an additional option.

The sheets need to be positioned as closely as feasible to one another, glued, screwed, and puttied around the joints and holes. Sandpaper should be used to clean the putty-treated areas.

Method 2: leveling with thin screeds

Polymer-based self-leveling mixtures and cement mortars can be applied in this situation. The mixtures can be used as finishing finishes, with a maximum thickness of 1 centimeter for thin layers. For stairs, specific compositions can be used to process severe cracks. To remove more severe flaws and distortions, the cement mixture can be poured.

Prior to pouring various polymer mixtures, a primer is applied to the surface, and a screed is created. A cement-acrylic mortar, which can create a layer up to 6 centimeters thick, is the better option if the irregularities are larger than 2-3 millimeters. The instructions provide a recipe for preparing self-leveling mixtures, which are then poured in portions and distributed using a needle roller. Because the mixture sets quickly, pouring is done quickly, step by step.

You will need levels, plasterboard guides, screed mixture, spatulas, and a standard set of repair tools to level the floor yourself using concrete mortar. This recipe is used to prepare concrete: One part sand, one part water, and three parts M200 cement. Expanded clay, gravel, and glass can all be added to the composition. In order to prepare the screed, combine the sand, cement, and water in a concrete mixer. Additionally, you’ll need containers to mix the solution.

Prior to pouring concrete, the amount of screed is calculated based on the state of the base; if the surface slope, potholes, and bumps are no larger than 3 centimeters, it will be sufficient to pour a layer that is 7-8 centimeters high. A concrete subfloor is laid when more severe distortions need to be leveled.

How to use your hands to manually level a concrete floor beneath linoleum:

1) Tearing down the old covering, giving the floor a good cleaning, and clearing the dust.

Using a laser level (or a regular level and nylon cord), mark the floor, install beacon rails, and examine all flaws and irregularities.Identify the lower and upper points of irregularities.

The measurements are taken down to the slab itself from a straight line drawn on the wall around the room’s perimeter. They draw a line and retreat 3-6 centimeters up from the upper point of the irregularity, which is marked by the shortest indent. When setting the guides, this height of the future floor serves as a reference.

3) If necessary, the floor will be reinforced with metal in the form of a grid, with the diameter and pitch chosen to match the thickness of the screed.

4) To help the screed withstand the effects of outside forces and prevent cracks, a damper tape is glued along the lower edge of the wall just above the level of the future floor.

5) Installing beacons: these can be profiled plasterboard sheets or damp wooden beams. The distance between the guides needs to be less than the diameter of the instrument used to level and distribute the mixture.

6) Preparing the concrete by mixing the mixture.

7) Distributing the blend amidst the beacons. It is preferable to feed while gradually making your way toward the exit from the far corner of the room. After the pouring is finished, the surface is leveled and the solution is distributed.

8) After a day, take off the polyethylene film covering the screed, disassemble the beacons, and rub the seams.

Method 3: leveling with substrates

Using a variety of substrates that serve as both a heat- and sound-insulating layer at the same time, you can level the floor beneath linoleum without the need for glue. You can also remove any irregularities. Consider the characteristics of each substrate as well as the kind and extent of the floor’s irregularities when making your selection.

Materials beneath linoleum:

• Jute – the most practical and durable, not afraid of moisture, laid on glue under linoleum. Can be of different thicknesses, capable of leveling surfaces with differences of up to 3 millimeters.
• Cork – made of crumbs. This is a natural environmentally friendly material that is afraid of local mechanical loads from sharp heels, furniture legs. Has excellent heat and sound insulation properties. Usually used for arranging floors in children"s rooms, attached with double-sided tape.
• Natural flax – such substrates are cheaper than jute, but in comparison with them have a much shorter service life.
• Combined substrates – a mixture of flax, jute, wool, impregnated with antifungal agents and fire retardants. Can be made both in the form of one independent coating, and from several layers, mounted on mastic or glue. Well suited for use at home.
• Foam plastic – cheap, poorly cope with loads, have a short service life, so they are usually used together with cork or as a temporary base.

Under linoleum, leveling a concrete floor is a doable do-it-yourself project that can dramatically enhance the look and durability of your flooring. Whether you use a screed, plywood underlayment, or self-leveling compound, you can achieve a smooth and even surface that is ready for linoleum installation by selecting the appropriate technique.

Every technique has its own benefits, such as the extra insulation provided by plywood or the simplicity of applying self-leveling compounds. It’s critical to evaluate the particular state of your floor and select the approach that best fits your needs and level of expertise.

In addition to improving the appearance of your linoleum, taking the time to properly prepare your concrete floor will guarantee that it stays in place and retains its durability over time. You can accomplish professional results without specific tools or knowledge if you plan and execute them carefully.

Under linoleum, leveling a concrete floor can be an easy do-it-yourself project that improves the flooring’s longevity and appearance. Important techniques are to apply a thin layer of plywood or underlayment for moderate imperfections, use a self-leveling compound for minor unevenness, and choose a full resurfacing with a cement-based product for more serious problems. A smooth, long-lasting surface can be achieved with minimal effort and basic tools with each method, which makes it a good choice for homeowners who wish to upgrade their floors on their own without hiring a professional.

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