Laying (installing) curbs for paving slabs with your own hands – a step-by-step plan

A satisfying do-it-yourself project that can improve the aesthetics and usability of your outdoor area is installing curbs for paving slabs. Whether you’re building a driveway, patio, or walkway, strategically placed curbs give your paving slabs the necessary support and a polished appearance. You don’t need to hire a contractor to get professional results if you have the right equipment and a little know-how.

Curbs are installed in a number of steps, from planning and excavation to curb setting and level and secure curb installation. Every step is essential to the durability and final look of your paving project. You can steer clear of common pitfalls and guarantee a seamless installation by adhering to a structured plan.

We’ll take you step-by-step through the installation of curbs for your paving slabs in this guide. From assembling the necessary supplies to completing the installation, you will discover useful hints and methods that will simplify and speed up the process. You will be able to create a stunning, clearly defined space out of your outdoor area with a little perseverance and attention to detail.

Step	Description
1. Prepare the area	Clear the area of debris and level the ground.
2. Mark the layout	Use string and stakes to mark where the curbs will be placed.
3. Dig a trench	Dig a trench along the marked line, making it deep and wide enough for the curbs.
4. Add a gravel base	Fill the trench with a layer of gravel to provide a stable base.
5. Position the curbs	Place the curbs in the trench, ensuring they are level and aligned properly.
6. Secure the curbs	Use a rubber mallet to tap the curbs into place, ensuring they are firmly set.
7. Fill gaps	Fill any gaps around the curbs with sand or concrete for added stability.
8. Final adjustments	Check the alignment and make any necessary adjustments.
9. Clean up	Remove any excess materials and clean the area.

Types of curbs

Curbs were originally used to divide the road surface from the sidewalk. These days, the element primarily serves as a decorative element that aids in defining the borders of pedestrian and vehicular areas.

The cladding is securely held in place by the curb, keeping it from shifting to the sides. Curbs come in a variety of materials, shapes, configurations, and colors when it comes to design.

• Concrete – this can be just a concrete curb or with reinforcement, which increases strength and reliability, extends the service life. M400 concrete is used to make the element.
• Stone – elements are cut from solid stone, providing the desired size and shape. Such products are especially durable, but involve a high cost. True, they also look very beautiful and expensive: due to the natural texture, the curb is an original color, with a unique design.
• Artificial stone – the curb is made of concrete and stone chips. After pouring and hardening, the elements are sanded, giving a natural look. This type of curb is practically no different from natural stone, but is much cheaper.
• Clinker – differs from clinker brick in size and shape. The production technology is the same, so the curb acquires a special color that cannot be confused with anything.
• A mixture of polymer and sand – is produced according to the same principle as polymer-sand tiles: the components are mixed, heated until half-ready, and molded. By adding expanded clay to the mixture, it is possible to reduce the weight. Laying paving slabs and curbs of this type will be the cheapest. But the material has some disadvantages: it expands when heated, requires a minimal choice of colors and shapes, and is not very durable.
• Rubber – such elements are made from crumbs obtained by recycling car tires. Rubber curbs are not afraid of moisture and high/low temperatures, but are considered fire hazardous.
• Plastic is the newest material for the production of curbs, which is gradually gaining popularity. But due to the low strength of plastic and fading under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, it is used less often than it could. Nevertheless, the low price and a huge selection in terms of size, shape, color make this option attractive.

Sidewalk

Typically, this kind of curb is used to zone areas, edge lawns, and divide grassy and flower-bed areas from sidewalks and paths. In addition, the sidewalk curb strengthens the tile and prevents it from creeping by allowing various soil layers to be supported and preventing soil from combining with sand or crushed stone.

The vibration pressing method is typically used to create the sidewalk curb out of concrete mortar. A typical stone is 50 centimeters long, and the canvases are put together using the necessary amount of items.

Road

The purpose of this type of curb is to improve the longevity and dependability of the roadway by dividing it from the sidewalk or lawn. This component is also known as a road curbstone. It is installed during road construction; in certain instances, if the curb was not originally part of the project, it may need to be laid separately after the road surface is installed.

In addition to being manufactured to be twice as long as a sidewalk curb, road curbstone is typically slightly wider and higher. It is made by the casting process, and metal rods are frequently used for reinforcement.

Sidewalk without curbs

Even though installing a sidewalk curb is typically one of the steps in the formation of various types of surfaces, there are a few technologies that do not require this component to be installed. In this instance, the cost of constructing alleys and pathways can be decreased, and the building process can be accelerated and made much simpler.

Tiles recessed into the ground

This technique is typically applied when laying in clay soil areas because the tiles will essentially not move. This option is appropriate in rural areas or on the property of a country home where occupants are temporary residents, where the load on the coating is not too high.

• Removing a layer of turf and a small layer of soil
• Backfilling a sand cushion, compacting and leveling it
• Paving slabs are laid in such a way that the coating does not protrude above the soil surface
• The path is covered with sand, which is then carefully swept away with a brush

Using a steel angle

This method involves drilling through one of the steel angle’s shelves to create a coating. The angle needs to be placed with this shelf in a trench created especially for it. After that, the angle is pinned to the ground through the holes so that the top edge is level with the ground.

Sand backfill is then applied, and paving slabs are placed on top of it. A sturdy monolithic coating for the garden path can be created by using a cement and sand bonding solution.

Fixing with concrete mortar

If you use tiny mounds of cement mortar created along the edges of future paths in place of the product, you can install tiles without a border. After that, turf is applied over them, making them totally invisible.

The most crucial aspect of the technology is to accurately measure the mortar’s height, which should ideally be two to three centimeters below the installed tiles.

Using concrete drains

Many artisans set up courtyard drainage systems with open-type storm drains rather than creating a border. Water is drained into a specific location by special trays. These trays are frequently placed around the edges of parking lots, garden paths, and other kinds of locations.

This choice inhibits the tiles’ natural spreading. Just like regular curbs, the trays are simply placed in the trenches that have been prepared for them using concrete mortar. In this instance, you must ensure that the trays’ level is marginally lower than the tile’s upper plane during installation. Water will enter the drainage system with ease in this manner.

Laying technology

Depending on the product’s material and the tasks assigned, there are various methods for manually installing curbs for paving slabs.

Monolithic concrete

In the past, when there were no other elements and this option was the most easily accessible and straightforward, this kind of curb laying was utilized everywhere. Continuous curb pouring was done right into the formwork.

• Digging a trench corresponding in size to the required curb
• Filling the hole with crushed stone
• Installing the formwork according to the height and boundaries of the future curb – from sheets of metal or moisture-resistant plywood, reinforced with pins on the outside
• Laying a reinforcing frame (if necessary) made of 6 mm thick wire rod inside the formwork structure
• Pouring concrete mortar, tamping to remove air
• Dismantling the formwork a few days after pouring
• Laying the paving slabs – only after the concrete has completely dried and hardened
• Coating the concrete curb with lime or paint

In the USA and Europe, monolithic concrete curbs are still in use. Here, special technologies are applied to produce the strongest and most reliable road components possible. Alternative options are becoming more and more popular in the former Soviet Union’s member states.

Plastic curbs

Products made of plastic come in an enormous range of hues, forms, sizes, and arrangements. There are those that are used less frequently and those that are fairly common. Generally speaking, each type of plastic curb recommends an installation algorithm of its own.

Putting in a Country-style curb, which is a roll of material 10 meters long, 11 cm high, and 2 cm thick:

• Laying the tape along the edges of the prepared trench, fastening to the soil with metal or plastic pins (supplied in the kit).
• Sprinkling the curb with crushed stone or soil from the inside.
• Next, you need to install the plastic curb in the same way on the opposite side so that the tapes are on the same side.

Because of its thinness, the "Country" curb serves more as a soil limiter than a decorative element. When you select the appropriate tile color, the plastic becomes virtually invisible on the ground, giving the paths the appearance of not having a curb at all.

Another style of well-liked plastic curbs is a panel that is three meters long and has mounting holes in the bottom. These holes are pierced with plastic pins. Since this type of curb is adaptable, it’s frequently utilized when installing paving slabs with curved paths.

There are many variations available; a plastic product can mimic a concrete, granite, or wooden curb and come in any size or color. These components are frequently utilized for fences and flowerbeds. There are prefabricated structures where the system is formed from multiple components and pins are supplied separately, as well as monolithic borders with attached pins.

When to install a curbstone

Many craftsmen worry about when to install a curb. Additionally, experts typically have different perspectives on this matter. While some argue that the element should be installed following the path’s trench excavation, others maintain that it is preferable to proceed with all of the work after the paving slabs have been finished. Each choice has advantages and disadvantages.

Whichever option you decide on, you must address curb selection concurrently with paving design (rather than after). Ultimately, the component needs to be integrated with paving slabs as well as other landscape design elements, such as the house’s roof, fencing, facade tiles, gutters, and caps on fence posts.

Installation immediately

This is an approachable method for novices. Because the curb was installed prior to the covering, you could design the entire area right away, establish the site’s proper geometric proportions, and define the boundaries with clarity. When laying tiles for the first time and lacking any prior experience, masters recommend selecting this option.

Installation at the end

One major benefit in this case is that you can minimize consumption by not sawing individual modules and by making the best use of the material. They frequently select a garden curb to lay after paving slabs because it holds the paths securely and divides the zones.

Cement and sand mixed in a 1:3 ratio should be used to repair the curb. In addition to filling the side space, the mass serves as a bedding layer between the product and the base. Everything is covered with water once the installation is finished, and then the mixture is allowed to solidify.

A simple do-it-yourself project that can significantly improve the appearance and longevity of your outdoor space is laying curbs for paving slabs. You can follow along step-by-step with this guide, which will take you from gathering supplies to making sure your curbs are firmly in place. You will discover how to measure, dig, and set your curbs for a professional finish, whether you’re defining a patio, driveway, or garden path. The process will be made as easy as possible with clear instructions and helpful hints.

How to install correctly with your own hands

In order to correctly install curbs for paving slabs, you must thoroughly examine each step of the installation process. The quality and accuracy of the installation will directly affect the edging’s strength, durability, and dependability as well as the coating itself, which the curb guards against deterioration and erosion.

Because they are lighter and smaller in size than road curbs, sidewalk curbs are simpler to install. Sidewalks typically use 50 centimeter concrete tiles, which are made by pressing and have standard height and width measurements.

• Accurate and thorough marking of the area where the curb is planned to be laid: first, pegs are installed, then a string is pulled between them, marking the line of the future edging.
• Digging a trench – the depth of the hole should be slightly greater than the height of the elements, a width of 20 centimeters will be enough. The bottom of the trench is tamped.
• Filling the bottom with crushed stone, tamping, filling with sand, pouring with water, tamping.
• Mixing concrete mortar: sand, crushed stone of fraction 15, cement M500 and water are taken in the proportion of 2.5:2:1:2.
• Installing the curb in the prepared trench, leveling along the borders and height, pouring with concrete, sealing all joints and voids with mortar.
• Eliminating all cracks with a mixture of dry sand and cement, pouring with water, waiting for complete drying.

If the curb-set paving stones are installed properly, the coating will be strong, even, and long-lasting. It will also be protected.

How to properly lay without a curb

Many people just ignore the curb when laying paving slabs, not worrying about how to install them correctly. This decision is sometimes supported by cost savings and operational needs. Tiles can be laid without a border in a few different ways.

Laying on a concrete base

To apply the coating in this manner, prepare a concrete foundation. Make a concrete-cement mixture, lay the tiles, and cover them with a layer of soil to ensure they are firmly fastened together. The coating has a high strength, is long-lasting, and does not break easily.

On geotextiles

In this instance, the sand and gravel cushion is strengthened by textiles. The task is straightforward, but the method has some drawbacks: it requires a lot of labor and expensive materials, and it takes a long time to finish.

On sand and crushed stone

The least expensive and most straightforward laying technique, which relies on using a sand and cement cushion (in dry form).

• Marking the area using pegs and twine.
• Removing a layer of soil up to 30 centimeters deep.
• Leveling the surface with a rake and a shovel.
• Be sure to make a slope at the rate of 5 millimeters per 1 meter of the path to ensure unhindered drainage of water.
• Careful and thorough compaction of the soil surface, which will eliminate the risk of tile subsidence.
• Moistening the soil.
• Filling with sand in a 7-centimeter-thick layer, leveling the surface, pouring with a large volume of water, tamping.
• Laying a dry sand-cement mixture (prepared in the following proportion: 1 part cement and 8 parts sand) in a 4-centimeter-thick layer, leveling the surface using a building level.
• Laying the first row of tiles, starting from yourself and going diagonally. In the process, everything is carefully tamped with a rubber hammer so that the elements are not damaged. You can add more mixture under the tiles that are subsiding.
• Adjusting the laying according to the level, filling the seams, sweeping out excess with a brush.

Doing your own curb installation for paving slabs can be a useful and satisfying project. You can make sure that your paving is sturdy, tidy, and long-lasting by adhering to a step-by-step plan. With the correct equipment and supplies, anyone can produce results that look professional.

The secret is to prepare. Digging a trench for the curb stones and marking the area are the first steps. Make sure the trench is deep enough to accommodate a stable base of compacted sand or gravel as well as the ability to hold the curb securely. Your curbs will remain in place and won’t move thanks to this foundation.

Use a level to ensure straight and even curb installations. Before securing them with a mortar mix, make any necessary adjustments to the height and position. Before stepping on the mortar or laying the paving slabs, smooth out the mixture to produce a smooth finish and allow it to fully set.

Lastly, to provide additional stability, backfill the area around the curbs with gravel or soil. As you proceed, check the alignment and make any necessary corrections. You can improve the overall appearance and functionality of your outdoor space by creating a sturdy and attractive border for your paving slabs with patience and attention to detail.

Video on the topic

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💥 INSTALLING CURBES WITH YOUR OWN HANDS