Achieving a smooth and perfect drywall finish is crucial when remodeling a space, particularly if you intend to paint or apply wallpaper. Puttying the drywall is an important step in this procedure. Although it may seem difficult at first, you can accomplish professional-looking results on your own with a little help and the appropriate equipment.
In order to create a seamless surface, puttying drywall entails filling in joints, seams, and any imperfections. This is important because paint or wallpaper will reveal any lumps or uneven patches. Making the effort to putty your drywall correctly will guarantee a smooth and appealing finish.
This tutorial will show you how to putty drywall properly regardless of your level of experience. Everything will be covered, including the supplies you’ll need and how to apply and smooth the putty. You’ll have no trouble getting your walls ready for their new look if you follow these tips.
You’ll save a lot of money on professional labor and have the satisfaction of finishing a large portion of your home improvement project yourself by following these easy steps. Together, we will create the ideal surface for your paint or wallpaper. Let’s get started.
Installing drywall is an essential step in creating a level and smooth surface for paint or wallpaper, and you can save money and feel proud of yourself if you do it yourself. This post will walk you through every step of the procedure, from putty application to drywall preparation and achieving a polished finish. With simple-to-follow guidelines and helpful advice, you’ll discover how to overcome typical obstacles and prepare your walls for the last decorative accents.
- Do you need to putty drywall for painting or wallpaper with your own hands
- Primer for plasterboard: why, what and when to use
- Types of plasterboard putties – which one to choose and apply
- Cement
- Gypsum
- Acrylic
- Putty tools
- Puttying technology, sequence of work for plasterboard walls for painting and wallpaper
- Preparing drywall for puttying: do-it-yourself primer coating
- Sealing screws and seams – step-by-step instructions for putty
- Why putty vertical joints of walls and partitions
- Cut seams
- The second puttying technology: first the tape, then the finished putty
- How to putty drywall corners: external and internal
- Sanding seams and corners with putty
- Video on the topic
- Puttying drywall walls for wallpaper during apartment renovation. How to remove wallpaper from drywall
- How to properly putty a drywall wall for wallpaper
- How to putty drywall walls for painting
- Do you need to putty walls for wallpaper? Drywall walls for wallpaper!
- How to putty drywall for wallpaper
- How to putty drywall for painting, from A to Z. Part 2
Do you need to putty drywall for painting or wallpaper with your own hands
Although GKL appears smooth, during the moving and installation process, the drywall develops dents and cracks, and gaps appear at the joints where dust and debris eventually becomes lodged. Even if you intend to paint or paste over the relief wallpaper without causing any damage to the wall, putty coating will still be necessary.
Any choice for a later coating requires GKL processing. Puttying drywall is required before painting or plastering. Errors and damage show up on the painted but unleveled drywall plane. Putty for painting plasterboard is intended to smooth out screw holes, corner sections, and connecting seams. Apart from fixing visual flaws, it also lengthens the gypsum board’s lifespan.
Plasterboard sheets can be finished without the need for specialized skills. All you’ll need is a set of tools, some plasterboard putty knowledge, and careful attention to the directions. The wallpaper will conceal any imperfections, fissures, voids, and punctures caused by fasteners with a layer of plasterboard putty underneath.
Primer for plasterboard: why, what and when to use
It is not necessary to completely putty the plasterboard sheet when using a primer solution. When plasterboard is processed with water-dispersion acrylic paint, a film is formed on the surface that works well with glue and shields the cardboard from damage during the removal of old wallpaper. Using a primer lowers the chance of material bubbles and peeling when putty is applied to the plasterboard. It is important to complete the plasterboard at this step. Consequently, the treated surface is leveled and less mixture is used.
- increases adhesion between coating layers;
- increases absorption capacity.
To improve the material connection, the primer solution needs to be applied prior to each finishing step, such as before plastering the gypsum board. In order to preserve paint and adhesive materials, paint the wall before painting it or applying wallpaper.
Prior to smoothing the initial layer of drywall putty onto the surface, a primer treatment is also necessary because the sheet gets dusty during this process. If a liquid composition is not used, the final finishing layer may roll off.
- The plane prepared for decorative pasting is treated with diluted glue for the material.
- The solution for working with porous surfaces is used before puttying plasterboard, painting or decorating with wallpaper.
- When preparing the surface for applying the paint composition, the recommendations of the manufacturers are taken into account. Sometimes you can use diluted paint or deep penetration primer.
Types of plasterboard putties – which one to choose and apply
Different kinds of mixtures are used for plastering, and there are several groups that can be identified. You must choose the appropriate putty for plastering plasterboard sheets before you begin.
- type of space;
- conditions of use of the room;
- temperature and degree of air humidity.
Correctly identifying what plasterboard to putty underneath wallpaper is especially crucial; if not, the material may lose its properties and not last as long. Polymer-based solutions that are resistant to heat exposure and can hold their properties over extended heating are advised for use in dry, hot rooms.
For the puttying of errors with a height variation of 0.5-2 cm, starting material is used. Applying a finish option with a fine-grained structure is possible occasionally.
Every type of putty used for drywall that is produced has both positive and negative attributes.
Cement
Cement-containing compounds are in demand, utilized in damp rooms, and available at every building supply store. Cement-based mixtures are known for their durability and resistance to moisture, as well as their ability to shield drywall surfaces from damage.
- increased strength;
- moisture resistance;
- affordable price;
- The ease of application.
Because cement putty shrinks, it should only be used for plastering kitchen areas, bathrooms, and toilet rooms in apartments and other residential buildings.
Gypsum
These compositions are popular because of their increased adhesion to the base material. The mixture is simple to work with, hardens, and sets readily. One advantage that broadens the material’s application areas is its capacity to change color and properties when different additives are added to the composition. Reduced resistance to moisture and humid environments are among the drawbacks.
Because gypsum absorbs liquid quickly and loses its properties, it is a good choice for rooms with dry air. Hydrophobic impurities do not alter the material’s performance characteristics, so it is not utilized in bathrooms, kitchens, or rooms with high humidity.
Acrylic
Universal acrylic mixtures are thought to be the best options for painting and wallpapering plasterboard walls. The compositions are offered in large quantities and are profitable for extended use due to their resistance to mechanical stress. Polymer materials are frequently utilized for ceiling finishing.
The plastic mixture is more costly but sticks to gypsum plasterboard well and is resilient to moisture. The composition is still functional and has a long shelf life.
Prior to selecting a putty for drywall, it is advised to confirm how the material behaves in practical situations.
Putty tools
Even an amateur finisher can handle puttying drywall with their hands because it’s not a very difficult task.
- container for mixing dry mixture;
- an industrial mixer or drill with an attachment for kneading the plaster to the desired consistency;
- a roller with medium pile for treating surfaces with a primer solution;
- spatulas of two types: narrow – for sealing unevenness and cleaning wide, and larger – for applying a layer of finishing mixture;
- a rule selected by size to check the evenness of walls and ceilings;
- reinforcing tape installed at corners to help provide stability and create the correct shape.
- paint brush;
- screwdriver with a Phillips head for self-tapping screws;
- a sanding block or power tool to smooth out hardened plaster.
To complete finishing tasks in low light, you will require a tripod-mounted lamp.
Puttying technology, sequence of work for plasterboard walls for painting and wallpaper
When the gypsum boards are installed on the frame, the finishing putty preparation process starts. The order of steps defining the best way to putty drywall before painting is thought to be appropriate. The treatment is applied in two layers if the technology is adhered to closely. For other ornamental coatings, pointless stages are removed.
Finishers with little experience in the field frequently wonder if they need to apply primer before applying finishing putty or if they can putty drywall right away. Even the best coatings can quickly deteriorate if one of the two procedures is neglected, so both are crucial.
- Processing with a deep penetration primer solution.
- Puttying traces of fasteners and screws.
- Gluing the joints of sheets with a mesh or reinforcing tape.
- Processing corner areas inside and outside.
- Applying a primer solution for drywall.
- Coating with a starting putty composition and sanding irregularities.
- Priming the drywall sheet;
- Processing with a finishing mixture and puttying defects.
- Coating with a primer solution before decorative finishing
The gypsum board joints need to be inspected for flaws before any work is done. In addition, loose fasteners are examined and, if needed, tightened.
It is necessary to remove the old screws and replace them with new ones because self-tapping screws should not be lowered more than 5 mm below the surface.
Preparing drywall for puttying: do-it-yourself primer coating
If not done by the manufacturer, the drywall’s cut edges are 45° inclined and have a width of 3-5 mm. Through this operation, the base’s plane of adhesion with the finishing coating can be increased. The areas that have been cut need to be primed; otherwise, the plaster there will start to crumble. Drywall walls are primed before being puttied, and primer should only be applied to clean, dry surfaces.
- Cleaning gypsum sheets from dirt, dust and foreign elements with a vacuum cleaner or a rag soaked in water.
- Confirmation of the stability of the installation. A correctly installed sheet of cardboard should not “walk”, and when trying to move the partition from its place, it can crumble.
- Preparing the primer: pour the solution into a container and dilute with water in a given ratio, sometimes it is enough to simply stir the mixture.
- Treating the drywall surface with a liquid compound using a brush or roller. The primer easily penetrates the base and increases adhesion to the plaster.
- The drying process, the time of which is indicated in the instructions for the solution and takes about a day. The dried primer achieves maximum performance characteristics.
It is acceptable to apply primer in a single layer to gypsum plasterboard that has been installed in rooms, but it is preferable to treat it twice in bathrooms and kitchens to produce a stable coating. The surface can be allowed to dry before moving on to the next step.
Sealing screws and seams – step-by-step instructions for putty
DIY Placing wallpaper over drywall requires concurrently processing the joints and screw placement areas. Applying the mixture to the suture areas requires moving the spatula transversely. Next, a serpyanka is positioned on the area and pressed into the mixture using wave motions. Putty the part with a thin layer to secure it.
After applying the mixture to the self-tapping screws, you can seal the cardboard’s edge seams and overlap them with the serpyanka. Putty should be applied with a spatula to the screw installation locations, and any excess should then be removed. All self-tapping screws are treated in this manner so that they can be sealed either concurrently with the seams or ahead of them.
Sand and prime the surface once more after it has dried. There are materials from well-known manufacturers, such as Knauf-Fugen, Fugenfüller, and others, for seam processing. The putty is diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream once the primer has dried. Don’t mix too much at once because the mixtures dry quickly.
Two kinds of GKL joints exist. There are no ledges on the sheet’s narrow side, but the long side’s edges are uneven to make sealing easier. It is necessary to cut the plasterboard, and the joints that are left behind require a unique processing technique.
Why putty vertical joints of walls and partitions
First, putty is packed tightly into the vertical joints of the plasterboard sheets. Then, while the putty is still wet, reinforcing tape or mesh is placed along the seams. The purpose of this operation is to stop cracks from forming. First, the tape is cut into the necessary lengths and submerged in water for ten minutes. Once the seam has been filled, the reinforcing material is taken out, any extra liquid is squeezed out using your fingers, and the connecting joint is glued.
Using an 8 cm wide spatula, press the reinforcing material below the plasterboard plane so that the tape "sits" on the factory protrusion. Starting in the center of the sheet and working outward, this is how the process is done. Excess mixture squeezed out during material laying needs to be removed. The joint seam is leveled once more to the level of the cardboard sheet if, upon pressing a spatula measuring at least 20 centimeters in width against the plasterboard plane, it becomes evident that the reinforcing material is situated beneath the wall plane.
Cut seams
For horizontal joints, such as those formed by joining two sheets of cardboard, or for vertical seams without edges, putty should be applied after processing. First, thoroughly coat the joints with a brush that has been dampened with water. To fully wet the drywall, you will need to go over the material several times. Next, cut grooves at a 45° oblique angle using a knife.
Using a brush is more convenient when priming the prepared seams. The area is filled with a mixture to process the joints after the drying process is finished. Using two spatulas is more convenient when working; one widens to 10 cm to apply the composition, and the other hardens to 20 cm to remove any excess. Putty must be pressed firmly into the seams. A roller that sticks out slightly above the plane is the result of proper work.
A fresh layer of the mixture, 0.5 mm thick, is applied to the joint. Next, water-soaked reinforcing material is taken and glued to the top. Using an 8 cm wide spatula, press the tape firmly against the cardboard plane while squeezing out any excess putty. To prevent it from wrinkling, the paper wave that forms while working needs to be watched.
Take out any extra composition from the adjacent plane and the tape. At the last step, a thin layer of the mixture is once more applied to the surface. Using a roller, the remnants of the plasterboard putty are stretched across the aircraft.
The second puttying technology: first the tape, then the finished putty
In the second puttying technique, a layer of putty is applied to the cardboard sheet after reinforcing material, or serpyanka, has been glued to it. Although this process is quicker, there is a major disadvantage: the material still has voids underneath it. The wallpaper may wrinkle in these areas, and the decorative plaster and putty are not guaranteed not to crack.
The work is made more difficult by the extreme rigidity of the serpyanka mesh. Frequently, the edges of the substance are discernible beneath the solution. To make the process easier, a mesh is puttied after the solution dries and glued to the area that needs to be treated beforehand. To expedite the process, you can use self-adhesive serpyanka, but puttying drywall this way is challenging because the spatula "jumps" on uneven surfaces and creates waves that are challenging to smooth out.
How to putty drywall corners: external and internal
It will be necessary to work on the inside and outside corner areas when finishing gypsum board. Drywall corners are given a defined shape prior to being puttied, necessitating the use of perforated metal components. Despite the elements’ low mass and lack of durability, the coating’s product inclusion allows it to withstand moderately strong mechanical impacts.
While the putty is being applied, the corners are joined. It will be necessary for you to cut the products ahead of time to fit the finished wall’s measurements. The components are fastened as evenly as possible, and the elements’ positions are verified with a hydraulic level or plumb line. For increased dependability, you can use a construction stapler to fix the corner at multiple points.
When it comes to finishing corner areas, a putty drywall expert can handle it with ease using the standard technique of applying the coating.
The mixture is leveled and applied to both sides of the wall. Utilizing a medium-width spatula for the task is more practical.
Use serpyanka or reinforcing tape, which is used to join joints, to finish the inside corners. Using a specialized trowel or a narrow spatula is preferable. The method of processing is the same; drywall putty is applied in successive layers to various wall surfaces.
Once the coating layer has dried, the corners can be finished. First, give the outer areas more support.
- cover the corner with the mixture on both sides;
- press the corner evenly with a rule;
- level the part of the putty that has come out on the surface;
- wait until the mixture sets.
When applying the final coat, make sure all of the solution has covered the corner. Using an angle spatula makes things more convenient. It is not worth doing this with an overlap when applying the mixture to each side of the wall in a separate strip.
Sanding seams and corners with putty
When sealing the joints, if the coating layer was evenly distributed, sanding time would be minimal. It is preferable to minimize the work because it takes a long time. Sand-generated fine dust rises and floats in the air for a considerable amount of time. Sawdust or wet rags are used to cover the floor before work begins. To prevent dust from entering other rooms, the doors are hung using a sizable cloth that has been dampened with water.
Before beginning work, any irregularities that stick above the surface are cut off with a sharp spatula. It is not necessary to smooth out corners and seams during the sanding process. Use a wooden block for work that has a mesh attached that has a cell count of 180–200. The mesh can be fastened with construction staplers. The tool is employed to level the aircraft. When working, it is best to use oblique lighting because it makes uneven surfaces easier to see. However, careful sanding of drywall is not necessary before applying wallpaper.
Wearing gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator while working is preferable. Apply the solution to the surface once more after sanding. Due to the settled dust, primer must be applied to the entire surface in order for the materials to adhere. Sanding and puttying internal corners is inconvenient.
Step | Description |
1. Prepare the Surface | Ensure drywall is clean and free from dust. Remove any loose material. |
2. Apply Primer | Apply a coat of primer to the drywall to improve adhesion of the putty. |
3. Mix the Putty | Prepare the putty according to the manufacturer"s instructions until it"s smooth and lump-free. |
4. Apply the First Coat | Using a putty knife, apply a thin layer of putty to the drywall, covering seams and screw holes. |
5. Let It Dry | Allow the first coat to dry completely, usually for several hours. |
6. Sand the Surface | Lightly sand the dried putty to smooth out any imperfections. |
7. Apply Additional Coats | Apply one or two more coats of putty, allowing each layer to dry and sanding in between. |
8. Final Sanding | After the last coat dries, sand the surface until it"s smooth and ready for wallpaper or paint. |
9. Clean the Surface | Remove all dust from sanding using a damp cloth. |
10. Apply Final Primer | Apply a final coat of primer to ensure a uniform surface for wallpaper or paint. |
When drywall puttying is finished, the surface is even and smooth, ready for painting or wallpaper. You can easily achieve results that look professional by following the provided steps. Whenever you apply joint compound or sand down the surface, keep in mind that you should take your time.
Utilizing the appropriate equipment and supplies has a big impact on the result. A flawless finish requires high-quality joint compound, a decent set of putty knives, and the right sanding equipment. To prevent flaws, it’s also crucial to completely clean the surface both before and in between coats of putty.
The keys are precision and patience. Hastily completing the process can result in visible seams and uneven surfaces, which can be more difficult to repair afterwards. You can achieve a perfect surface that is ready for your finishing touches by carefully applying, smoothing, and sanding between coats of putty.
Properly prepared drywall facilitates an easier and more enjoyable painting or wallpapering process. The longevity and aesthetic appeal of your walls are testaments to the effort you put into their proper puttying. By following these steps, you can transform your space with confidence, knowing that the base has been expertly prepared and is rock solid.