Plastering a surface properly is essential to achieving a smooth, long-lasting finish. Whether you’re working with metal, brick, concrete, or wood, each material needs to be prepared for plaster using a different set of skills and equipment. In addition to improving plaster adhesion, proper preparation extends the life of your work.
It’s crucial to begin any work with wood surfaces by giving the area a thorough cleaning. Eliminate any debris, oil, or outdated paint that could impair the plaster’s hold. Enhancing adhesion can be achieved by sanding the surface to create a slightly rough texture. Furthermore, using a wood-specific bonding agent can improve the plaster’s hold even more.
Concrete surfaces frequently require an alternative strategy. Checking the surface for flaws or cracks should be your first step. Once a suitable filler has been added, these should be left to dry completely. Clean the surface again to get rid of any dust or debris. In certain cases, especially when the concrete is extremely smooth or porous, a primer is required to provide the best possible surface for the plaster to adhere to.
Brick surfaces need to be kept clean and have a certain texture. Make sure to completely clean the bricks, removing any dirt or mortar. For optimal outcomes, coat the bricks with a bonding agent or a solution of PVA glue and water. By improving the plaster’s bonding surface, this step helps to ensure that it will remain intact over time.
Metal surfaces present unique difficulties. First, give the metal a good cleaning to get rid of any dirt, grease, or rust. Using a primer that works with both plaster and metal is essential. By serving as a bridge, this primer enables the plaster to adhere correctly. In certain situations, a mesh may be required to give the plaster more traction.
Plastering is made easier when you follow these specific preparation steps for each type of material. Making the necessary preparations in advance will prevent issues down the road and guarantee a high-quality, long-lasting finish.
Surface Type | Preparation Steps |
Wood | Clean the wood, remove any nails or screws, sand the surface, and apply a primer suitable for wood. |
Concrete | Clean the concrete, remove any loose material, fill cracks, and apply a bonding agent. |
Brick | Clean the bricks, remove dust and debris, fill any gaps or holes, and wet the surface slightly. |
Metal | Clean the metal, remove rust, sand the surface, and apply a metal primer. |
- Stages of preparatory work before plastering surfaces for painting
- Preparing brick surfaces
- Preparation of stone-like surfaces
- Preparing concrete surfaces
- Preparation of wooden surfaces
- Necessary tools for preparing a wall for plastering for various surfaces
- The first stage: cleaning the wall from wallpaper, paint and old plaster
- Plaster removal technology
- Removing wallpaper from a concrete surface
- Removing paint and varnish coating
- Stage two: DIY wall repair for plaster before finishing
- Third stage: cleaning the walls from dirt
- Stage four: ensuring adhesion during plastering
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Stages of preparatory work before plastering surfaces for painting
Plastering walls requires a number of steps that must be completed one after the other.
It is essential to finish all construction and installation-related tasks before facing the surfaces. They are executed in compliance with GOST and SNiP. New construction plastering is governed by documents.
- there is a floor covering or a screed is poured;
- hidden wiring was laid, t.e. the grooves were knocked out and sealed;
- window and door frames are installed;
- built-in furniture installed.
Masking tape should be used to seal the ceiling in the vicinity of the surface before plastering the walls. Lay polyethylene film on the floor.
- removing previous layers of cladding, paint, wallpaper and fasteners from the surfaces;
- repairing and strengthening the walls – removing chips and peeling, sealing cracks;
- cleaning surfaces from various contaminants, soot;
- forming a strong bond between the walls and plaster;
- installing beacons for uniform application of the composition.
Preparing brick surfaces
Making notches on a brick surface requires using a chisel and hammer. A trojan works well for these kinds of things. Dig the masonry joints down to a depth of 1 cm. Applying a penetrating primer to the brick is advised.
Preparation of stone-like surfaces
- if the masonry joints are filled flush, select a mortar to a depth of 1.5 cm;
- thoroughly clean the surface with a steel brush;
- to speed up the process, make joints no more than 1-1.5 cm deep;
- insert wire into them and form a weave to hold the plaster layer.
It is advised to use 1.5 cm long and 1.5 cm thick wooden plugs. Use hammer nails to drive the necessary depth into the seams before putting the checkers into the weave. A mesh can be used in place of the wire.
Preparing concrete surfaces
A mesh was affixed to concrete walls to guarantee the required adhesion of the coating to the surface until penetrating primers emerged. The procedure has now been made simpler.
Using a chisel and hammer, create notches in the wall. The notches are 5–10 cm long and have a depth of 0.5 cm. Next, use a roller to apply the penetrating primer. Use a brush if necessary to ensure that water is saturated onto concrete and plastered surfaces without removing it from the facing mixture. A film that binds the plaster and wall is created by the primer.
The terms "aerated concrete" and "reinforced concrete" can occasionally be confused by inexperienced builders. Concrete and steel make up the first, while an artificial stone with numerous cells that have a diameter of 1-3 mm makes up the second.
Preparation of wooden surfaces
Because plaster cannot be applied directly to wood, there are special considerations in the preparation of wooden walls. The composition does not follow this kind of content.
- plastic or fiberglass mesh;
- reed mat;
- shingles.
The final approach is dated but trustworthy. Slats of thin wood make up shingles. At a 45° angle, they are nailed to the surface. There is roughly 4.5 cm of space between each slat. The lower one must be nailed first, followed by the upper one. If the slats are not wetted, nails may split them. Give the ends a 2-millimeter space apart. If not, the plaster layer will be harmed by the lath due to temperature changes.
Plastering requires surface preparation in order to produce a smooth, long-lasting finish. Plastering wood, concrete, brick, or metal all require different procedures to ensure proper adhesion and long-lasting results. Begin by thoroughly cleaning the surface to get rid of grease, dust, and dirt. Use a bonding agent on wood to increase adherence. If a concrete surface is overly smooth, it may require a keying coat and should be dampened. In order to stop the plaster from absorbing moisture, brick surfaces need to be wetted. Plaster must be applied after a rust-resistant primer has been applied to metal surfaces. These procedures guarantee a solid bond and a perfect plastered finish.
Necessary tools for preparing a wall for plastering for various surfaces
A skilled builder is equipped with a variety of tools to prepare the surface for plastering. Their set varies with the surface material. It also takes a variety of tools to remove the coating.
- wood;
- brick;
- concrete.
You won’t need all the equipment if you complete the task yourself. You can use sawhorses, which are special platforms, in place of a portable ladder.
The first stage: cleaning the wall from wallpaper, paint and old plaster
Paint, plaster, and wallpaper layers must be removed in order to prepare surfaces for plastering. The new cladding will not stick well and will eventually fall off if you don’t clean the wall. Every detachable coating has unique properties.
Plaster removal technology
- remove the coating completely;
- remove the cladding only where it is not firmly attached, which is determined by tapping the surface with a hammer.
If the sound is clearly audible, the plaster is not sticking to the wall. Although very labor-intensive, the first option is the best one. You will need a brush, spatulas, hammer, and chisel to remove the old coating. Although complete plaster removal is time-consuming, it is better to take care of it rather than ignore it.
If you want to remove the coating more quickly, use a hammer drill that has a chisel attachment. However, brick and concrete walls can be repaired using this technique. If the surface is composed of aerated concrete, an impact-function drill bit is required. You will need to use a steel brush to remove any remaining cladding from the wall.
Using a grinder will expedite the process. Using an attachment with metal bristles is required. Purchasing or using old bags is advised when cleaning plaster that has been removed.
De-energizing the space is required prior to coating removal. If not, there could be a short circuit. For electric tools, an extension cord is required.
A spatula can be used to rapidly remove a thick layer from the surface if it starts to warp and fall off. It is worthwhile to hammer down the separated coating after putting a blade underneath it.
Paintbrush and water are an easy way to remove old cladding that is lying in a thin layer. Wet the wall until all of the moisture has been absorbed by the plaster. An electric drill with a brush attachment is suitable for use. The amount of dust that gets into the cracks is a drawback of this technique.
Skilled builders use a grinder and a specialized vacuum cleaner to remove the plaster. Dust particles are extracted using a hose. This kind of vacuum is pricey and unsuitable for standalone use. For this reason, a hammer and chisel are frequently used to remove the coating.
Hammer drills are useful for builders. Plaster is removed from a building’s facade using similar methods when walls are ready for cladding.
Removing wallpaper from a concrete surface
It’s not always clear to beginners how to plaster a wall correctly. Old wallpaper is really challenging to remove. You can play around with it for a very long time if you ignore certain subtleties.
Using a sharp spatula or knife will make the removal process easier if the wallpaper is older than eight years. Cutting through the peeled sections is worthwhile. With a tool underneath the wallpaper, carefully rip the paper away from the wall. Overly sharp edges will cause the material to tear. Should it not come off smoothly, you must apply water to the wall and take off the sheet.
Using a knife, score non-woven and vinyl wallpaper in the middle. Next, use a spatula to separate the edges from the base. It is preferable to bring a broad tool. First remove the sheet’s top, then its bottom, with your hands. Stains from the paper might remain; use a brush to get rid of them.
Use warm water to dissolve the glue if the wallpaper is only intended to be used for three to four years. Create holes in the canvas first so that water can pass through to the glue if they have a moisture-repellent layer. Using a "wallpaper tiger" is simpler. If you are without a tool, use a roller that has pointed tips.
Using a knife to remove wallpaper is acceptable. You must make surface incisions. The moisture will seep beneath the canvas more quickly the more of them there are. Use special methods if trying to soften the glue doesn’t work.
Apply laundry soap to PVA. Shave a piece finely, dilute with 4 liters of water, and heat through. Use a roller to apply the solution to the wall without waiting for it to cool. Using a spatula, take out the paper after 25 minutes.
Soak the wallpaper in a solution of water and fabric softener if the glue is hidden beneath a layer that repels water. Take 300 milliliters for single-layer material and 500 milliliters for multi-layer material per ten liters. On the surface, apply the solution. Using a wide spatula, remove the canvas after 20 minutes.
Use a brush to remove the remaining paper after wetting it with water. Rinse walls treated with an air conditioner or soap solution two to three times to get rid of it.
If the wallpaper is adhered using contemporary adhesives, grab an iron, a cotton cloth, and a pail of water. Connect the device to the power source using an extension cord, then adjust the power to the maximum level. Apply the towel to the wallpaper after wetting it and wringing it out. Use a hot iron five times to iron it. Using a spatula, remove the sheet and the towel.
Apply hot water spray to liquid wallpaper. They will come off naturally after two hours or are easily removed with a spatula. Apply a soap or conditioner solution to the sheet if you are unable to remove it.
Glass wallpaper removal products are available. Take KLEO, for instance. It is worthwhile to apply a solution to the surface and let it sit for a few hours. Cut the sheet above the ceiling and pull it down when it swells.
Sometimes, for unknown reasons, swelling does not happen. After that, use a knife to cut the glass wallpaper and pour the product in. Use a sharp spatula to separate the canvas after 15 minutes. Bring two tools: one with a wide blade and one with a narrow blade.
Removing paint and varnish coating
Plaster cannot be applied over a surface that has been whitewashed or coated with paint and varnish. The paint and the cladding do not adhere to one another. As a result, the paint and varnish coating must be removed.
- chemical;
- thermal;
- mechanical.
Every paint removal technique has benefits and drawbacks of its own. Using specific washes, like Prestige gel, is beneficial.
- high price;
- only 1 layer of coating is removed – if the painting process was carried out in several approaches, you will have to process the wall repeatedly;
- caustic and persistent odor;
- solvent residues cannot be flushed down the toilet – they require special disposal;
- work should be carried out in personal protective equipment;
- After removing the paint, you need to take a shower to wash off any remaining product.
Simpler techniques to remove the coating are employed more frequently. Using a hair dryer to heat the paint until bubbles form and then scraping it off with a spatula is the thermal method. A blowtorch is an option, but use caution when using it. An open flame could ignite the paint layer.
It is acceptable to use an iron to heat the layer through newspaper if it is thin. Because only a small portion of the surface is being heated, the paint removal process will take a while. Electrical outlets, wiring, and appliances are off-limits for working near. Caustic volatile substances are released when oil paint is heated.
The mechanical approach is thought to be the easiest and most secure. It works well for cleaning the coating in the kitchen and in a child’s room.
- Take a bucket of water and an axe.
- Use the tool to make notches on the paint and wet it well.
- After 5 minutes, remove the paint with an axe, working parallel to the wall.
- In narrow areas, it is more convenient to use a spatula (for example, near a socket).
Concrete surfaces cannot be treated with this method because the coating’s particles clog the pores and encourage strong adhesion.
Stage two: DIY wall repair for plaster before finishing
Examine the walls carefully after the coating has been removed. They are damaged and have chips and cracks. All current flaws ought to be fixed.
Concrete floor restoration and reinforced concrete panel repair are identical processes. When working with bricks, it is necessary to eliminate any loose components and knock off the cement mortar on the top and sides. After that, place the bricks back on a cement and sand mixture. You can use polyurethane foam in its place.
To fill in small cracks with mortar, widen them. For larger ones, use "cement milk," which is a 1:1 mixture of cement and water, and reinforce with screws. One alternative to the composition is a penetrating primer.
To stop the slotted edges from being destroyed in the future, seal them with the mixture. guarantees the repair mortar’s adherence. Once the primer mixture has dried, use it to seal the cracks. Remove chips and irregularities in a similar manner.
In aerated concrete, non-through cracks ought to be sealed with putty and reinforced. Making a gypsum solution from a unique finishing mixture—such as Knauf HP Fin—is essential.
Third stage: cleaning the walls from dirt
The cladding’s adhesion to the wall is decreased by any dirt. A metal brush can be used to remove dust and solution residue. Gloppy clay is used to remove oil stains. It needs to be applied thickly to all dirty areas, allowed to dry, and repeated as needed.
Oil stains on wooden walls should be removed as soon as possible to avoid future occurrences that could harm the plaster. Use hydrochloric acid to treat concrete or brick surfaces if clay is ineffective in removing stains from them. A solution concentration of 3–5% is advised. Wash the wall three times with water after cleaning it.
Use a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill to carve out areas on brick walls. Apply cement mortar to the remaining depressions to seal them.
Stage four: ensuring adhesion during plastering
A strong coating’s adherence to the surface is a crucial requirement for excellent plastering. Adhesion varies according to the type of wall. As a result, every kind needs a unique solution. For instance, there are significant variations in surface preparation between concrete and brick.
If the walls are not uniformly composed, you will need to buy a specific type of mesh for the cladding. The most popular pairings are aerated concrete or brick with concrete. The mesh is fastened to brick and stone using dowels and self-tapping screws, as well as to wood using nails. Metal surfaces will require welding.
Plastering requires surface preparation in order to produce a smooth, long-lasting finish. Plastering wood, concrete, brick, or metal all require different procedures to ensure proper adhesion and long-term durability.
It is imperative to fasten all boards to wood surfaces and use caulk to seal any spaces between them. Plaster adheres more readily when a metal lath or mesh is applied, giving the coating a stable foundation. Before beginning, always make sure the wood is clean and clear of grease or dust.
In order to get rid of any dust, oil, or loose particles, concrete surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned. It is advised to use a bonding agent to facilitate the plaster’s adherence to the concrete. Using a wire brush to slightly roughen extremely smooth concrete can help increase adhesion.
The surface needs to be spotless and clear of any loose mortar or debris before working with brick. To ensure a better bond and smoother finish, wet the brick slightly before plastering to keep it from absorbing too much moisture from the plaster.
To create a clean base for metal surfaces, any paint or rust must be removed. Plaster adhesion can be improved by applying a layer of metal primer. An excellent key for the plaster to adhere to can also be created by applying a metal lath over the surface.
For each kind of material, there are preparation steps that you should follow to make sure your plastering job turns out well. Not only does proper surface preparation improve plaster adhesion, but it also prolongs the life and improves the quality of the completed project. In the long run, you’ll save effort and frustration by taking the time to do it correctly.