Buildings can be made much more comfortable and functional by adding sturdy and stable ground floors. To guarantee an even and durable finished floor, this task requires several important steps when working with a strip foundation. Whether you’re a seasoned do-it-yourselfer or taking on a project for the first time, knowing the steps involved will help you produce results that are professional.
We’ll take you through a simple plan to install floors on the ground in this guide. We’ll cover every stage, from site preparation to screed installation, with detailed instructions and helpful hints. You can build a sturdy, dependable floor that endures over time by adhering to this step-by-step procedure.
Are you prepared to begin? Let’s explore the fundamentals of screed technology and how you can use it to your advantage in your own work.
- What is it?
- Pros and cons
- What you need to know before construction?
- Screed technology
- Preparation
- Sub-concrete
- Roll material
- Bitumen
- Capital concrete sub-base
- Waterproofing
- Thermal insulation
- Formation of the damper and reinforcing layer
- Finish screed
- Dry screed
- Wooden flooring
- Video on the topic
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What is it?
Ground level floors are a unique kind of subfloor arrangement that sits on the soil layer beneath the surface.
Similar techniques are permitted in the absence of a cellar or basement, and because they are more affordable, they are used when building auxiliary and utility buildings. Since the technology requires people to install "warm floor" systems or arrange an insulating and waterproofing layer, it is not widely used in private house construction.
Additionally, this kind of floor installation is only meant for conventional strip foundations; pile-strip and other combined options are not appropriate.
- Concrete screed with support on load-bearing wall structures.
- Concrete screed with support on the soil.
- Plank flooring on logs.
- Dry screed with "floating floor" technology.
Proper selection of soil composition and application of specific construction methods are necessary for each type. Pouring concrete mixture onto backfill is not permitted. Applying preparatory layers beforehand will help ensure optimal stiffness and resistance to heavy loads.
Although laying wooden structures is simple, there are a few steps that must be taken beforehand.
Ground floor construction in a strip foundation is a simple process that can be completed by do-it-yourselfers. From preparing the base and creating a strong foundation to applying the screed and guaranteeing a smooth, long-lasting finish, this guide will take you step-by-step through the entire process. Whether you’re trying to renovate your area or manage a new build, knowing how to use this method will enable you to accomplish a professional outcome on your own.
Pros and cons
Numerous benefits support the floor’s placement on the strip foundation. Among them are:
- Ease of self-erection of the structure.
- Economical consumption of materials and financial costs.
- Reduction of loads on load-bearing walls.
- Long service life and high maintainability.
- Compatibility with different types of finishing coating.
- Compatibility with the "warm floor" system.
But in addition to its benefits, the technology has drawbacks that frequently serve as the main justification for rejecting installation:
- Inability to arrange a floor on soil with an unstable and loose surface, sandy or complex composition.
- Poor thermal insulation properties (the heat loss rate in the cold period can reach 20%), which forces you to buy expensive insulators.
- Large temperature difference between the floor covering and the ceiling.
- Inability to lay communications in the ground.
What you need to know before construction?
It is crucial to thoroughly research the composition of the soil, the depth of the groundwater, and seasonal variations in their level before beginning any work.
You are able to confirm the future floor’s safety level with the information that was obtained. You should set up a good drainage system that aids in removing moisture from the building to extend its service life and shield it from standing water.
Next, since the backfill layers will be compacted, you must determine the ideal thickness for them. It is harder to guarantee high-quality insulation the thicker the layer.
To achieve normal crystallization of the mixture, a layer of rough screed is poured onto a geotextile cloth, allowing water to be retained in the concrete massif. Absorbent moisture in the concrete will weaken the screed and prevent proper hardening when it is poured over the preparatory layer.
When starting to pour concrete layers, it is necessary to adhere to the established timeframes during which the material crystallizes and obtains the required strength properties. If you deviate from them, there will be a possibility of deformation or destruction of the underlying layers.
It’s crucial to confirm that all utility connections have been made before beginning work. Installing them after the floor pie has been made will be difficult.
Screed technology
The technology for applying each layer and the predetermined dimensions must be followed in order for the future screed to be as dependable and long-lasting as possible.
Preparation
The fertile portion of the soil that cannot be compacted must be removed during the preparation phase. Additionally, you must pull out the roots of any plants that are situated around the tape’s edge.
Calculations are used to determine the depth of soil removal. The foundation is then compacted, creating a cushion of gravel and sand. Good tamping allows you to get the right foundation geometry without having the building shrink.
First, you must spread a layer of sand that is 10 to 15 cm thick, leveling it with a vibrating plate. The vibrating plate’s movement is then shifted by spraying water onto the soil using a hose and ramming it once more.
Using a homemade tool, you can compact the base of the layers of sand and crushed stone: take a wooden beam that measures 20 by 20 cm in cross-section and is 1.5 meters tall, or take a metal pipe and insert a 20 by 30 cm piece of channel at the bottom. The device is made heavy by the placement of a sand mixture in the pipe.
Sand can be filled and compacted after the compacted base has had time to dry.
Sub-concrete
Applying a sub-concrete is advised prior to pouring the main concrete mixture. It can be made in two ways: either a rough screed or compacted crushed stone that is poured with bitumen. In the first example, a waterproofing layer is added to the surface, giving it a trough-like appearance. But whichever way the sub-concrete is installed, its job is to do the following:
- Uniform distribution of the mixture over a flat surface contributes to the economical consumption of material.
- Carrying out work on applying markings, installing beacons and assembling structures on a flat base will become faster and more convenient.
- The footing provides effective waterproofing, preventing water from leaking out of the solution. This solution promotes proper drying and further hardening of the screed without the appearance of deformations and cracks.
- If groundwater lies high, the footing will prevent moisture from entering the floor structure.
It is common practice to arrange the footing using the concrete that is readily available. Use two layers of roofing felt or thick film as insulation.
The following guidelines must be followed in order to install superior concrete footings:
- Since the crushed stone insulation layer from cement laitance is placed on crushed stone, it must be moved with the utmost care to prevent the film from breaking.
- Installation of dense polyethylene should be done in 2 overlapping layers with an allowance of about 10 cm, gluing the joints with tape.
- The materials used must have a high degree of hydro- and vapor insulation.
- The laying procedure involves placing the edges of the sheets along the perimeter of the building on the foundation walls by 10-15 cm.
Placing roofing felt or film on top of the compacted sand can increase the thickness of the concrete sub-base if the area has loose soil and the groundwater level is high enough.
It is advised to place beacons along the path the mixture will be leveled with a rule in order to create a level surface. Using conventional technology, a mixture of crushed stone, cement, sand, and water is poured and stretched to create the screed. Bitumen must be applied to the screed after it has dried.
Roll material
Roll materials, which offer an excellent level of waterproofing, are frequently used when setting up a concrete sub-base for a floor.
- Cardboard – roofing felt, roofing felt.
- Polyester.
- Fiberglass.
- Fiberglass.
Bitumen
When using bitumen as an effective insulator on a strip foundation with ground-level floors, it is common practice. Increased waterproofing qualities and a barrier against groundwater seeping through the layers of the floor covering are characteristics of the material.
Capital concrete sub-base
A capital concrete sub-base installation is required if the soil layer is loose and unstable. The following guidelines must be followed when determining how to make it yourself:
- First of all, the highest point of groundwater is determined – the concrete sub-base should be made up to this level.
- Using a shovel, you need to level and plan the soil.
- Sand is placed at the bottom of the depression and evenly distributed.
- A film or roofing felt is placed on top.
- Using thin reinforcement, you need to arrange a “cage” with 60×60 cm cells.
- For more convenient stretching of the mixture, beacons are installed.
- Next, cement, sand, crushed stone and water are mixed until a homogeneous consistency is achieved.
- After this, the solution is poured with its subsequent distribution over the working area.
- After waiting for the solution to dry, it is covered with bitumen.
Waterproofing
After the footing is installed, you should start laying the roofing felt or film waterproofing material. With a 3 to 5 cm allowance width, the second option overlaps. It is suggested that you use a hair dryer to seal joints. Particular care must be taken in the areas where the waterproofing is adhered to the walls.
Thermal insulation
Make sure there is high-quality thermal insulation present before laying a floor on a strip foundation. Extruded polystyrene foam is used in its quality in the majority of cases. Its 5 cm thickness gives it the same thermal insulation qualities as 70 cm thick expanded clay. In addition, the material has a high strength and zero water absorption coefficient.
It is customary to lay 3 cm thick polystyrene foam in two layers to insulate the screed. This will help to improve the degree of thermal insulation and provide effective protection against the appearance of cold bridges. Tape is used to seal the joints between the slabs.
Formation of the damper and reinforcing layer
Installing the damper and reinforcing layer is a crucial step in floor layout on a strip foundation. It entails attaching a damper tape, about 15-20 cm wide, to the building’s walls. Tape is used to secure the lower portion to the insulation.
The damper layer will stop cracks and the displacement of the heat-insulating layer as the screed dries and starts to expand in size.
A metal mesh with 10×10 cells is used and set on specific supports to implement reinforcement. Ensuring that it is 1-2 cm above the insulating layer is crucial.
Finish screed
Metal profiles are fixed in a cement mortar containing gypsum additives to create temporary beacons. The guides are arranged in a single plane, and the wall markings are taken into consideration when pouring and leveling cement.
You will need to wait 28–30 days for the screed to dry completely. While the screed surface is wet, you are unable to remove the polyethylene film. Self-leveling compounds are used to level the screed once it has been completed.
Dry screed
Installing guide profiles is a necessary step in the organization of dry screed. The first is positioned close to the wall, and the others are spaced 1.5 meters apart. It is necessary to fix profiles parallel to one another. Should they be higher, you will have to set boards or slab segments underneath them. Supports beneath the profiles are positioned 70 centimeters apart.
The area closest to the door should be your first priority when laying sheets. It is best not to walk on screed while it is still hardening; instead, place slab fragments along the perimeter to allow for movement.
When setting up a dry screed, the following steps should be taken in order:
- For even placement of the first sheets, you will need to trim the folds.
- The role of a waterproofing agent can be performed by polyethylene film or moisture-resistant plywood.
- After completing the installation of the dry screed, the beacons must be removed. Otherwise, they will harden firmly in the cement composition.
Wooden flooring
Installing wooden flooring on a ground floor is thought to be the most economical and practical choice. The technology uses brick pillars as the foundation. In accordance with this principle, supporting components are arranged to provide a dependable system for the installation of logs.
Expanded clay fills the space between the pillars. Additionally, leaving an air gap will help to keep the wood dry.
To guarantee an even surface, the log system is subjected to additional horizontal alignment. A wooden subfloor is then put in place. After creating a substrate, a waterproofing film is applied on top. You can utilize the following materials to make it:
- Linoleum.
- Laminate.
- Other materials.
Step | Description |
1 | Prepare the Ground: Clear the area of debris and level the ground where the floor will be installed. |
2 | Install a Vapour Barrier: Lay down a plastic sheet to prevent moisture from seeping into the concrete. |
3 | Set Up Formwork: Build wooden frames to contain the concrete and shape the floor. |
4 | Place Reinforcement: Lay steel mesh or rebar to strengthen the concrete and prevent cracking. |
5 | Mix and Pour Concrete: Prepare the concrete mix and pour it into the formwork, spreading it evenly. |
6 | Screed the Surface: Use a screeding tool to level the surface and remove any excess concrete. |
7 | Finish the Surface: Smooth out the surface with a trowel and let the concrete cure properly. |
Although it may seem difficult to create floors on the ground in a strip foundation, it is actually very manageable if you follow a clear, step-by-step process. By adhering to the strategy described in this guide, you can make sure that your floor is sturdy and steady, extending the life of your building.
Recall that paying close attention to detail at every stage—from preparing the ground and laying the foundation to applying the screed—is the secret to success. To create a sturdy and level surface, each step is essential.
You can have a well-built floor that not only satisfies your practical needs but also increases the value of your house with patience and accuracy. Even though the process is hands-on, the satisfaction of finishing the project yourself makes the work worthwhile.