How to make an overflow septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands for a private house, cottage: diagram, device, dimensions

Although installing your own septic tank may seem like a difficult undertaking, with the correct advice, it can be a rewarding and manageable project. Because of its dependability and efficiency, concrete ring overflow septic tanks are a common option for individual homes and vacation homes.

For people who want to manage wastewater effectively, especially in places where connecting to a public sewage system isn’t an option, this kind of septic system is perfect. The procedure entails meticulous preparation and knowledge of the fundamental elements and measurements needed for a working setup.

This post will guide you through the process of building an overflow septic tank out of concrete rings. It will include a clear system diagram, information on the required parts, and advice on how to measure the tank correctly for your particular requirements.

Septic tank from rings – all the pros and cons

Prior to building a DIY septic tank out of concrete rings, you should carefully weigh all the components and take into account the design features.

• Excellent performance properties of the structure
• Strength of tanks, resistance to various aggressive environments, large-volume salvo discharges, strong pressure
• Affordable cost – both materials and installation
• Long service life – a properly made and regularly maintained septic tank can last up to 50 years
• Tightness of the structure – correctly executed waterproofing makes a single or double chamber septic tank resistant to groundwater, capable of both retaining the contents inside and preventing water from entering the tanks from the outside

The large weight of the structure, the requirement for special or low-mechanization equipment during installation, and the potential for wastewater to enter the ground (should the system be installed incorrectly or the seam sealing be destroyed) are among the significant drawbacks that are typically highlighted.

Options for arranging septic tanks

Septic tanks are straightforward constructions with one, two, or three chambers. Although single-chamber septic tanks are a common and dependable cesspool, they are being used less and less these days.

Structures with two or three chambers are thought to be the most common. Whatever the plan, the septic tank needs to have its sewage equipment maintained in order to remove solid waste that has accumulated on the walls and bottom of the tanks.

• With one chamber – relevant when designing a sewerage system for small summer cottages with seasonal living, where the volume of wastewater is usually small. Also often arranged where groundwater lies high, and the soil is clayey.
• Two-chamber septic tanks – make it possible to arrange an autonomous sewerage system for a cottage, a private house with a significant volume of wastewater.
• Three-chamber septic tanks – can handle the maximum volume of wastewater.

Septic tanks with two chambers are frequently enhanced with a filtration field or a dedicated well. In this instance, the initial compartment is constructed as a sealed container with a concrete or cast iron hatch, an inlet and an outlet for wastewater, and a small opening for the limited entry of oxygen. The second chamber gets oxygen because a ventilation pipe has been installed. Purification is done in multiple stages because of design elements.

• The first storage tank – primary purification takes place in it (without oxygen access), when large suspended solids settle and decompose, and organic matter is processed by anaerobic bacteria.
• The second chamber – here air and aerobic bacteria participate in the purification and filtration process. The organic matter residues settle to the bottom as sludge, the light liquid goes into the filter (drainage) well, through it into a layer of sand and crushed stone (where it is still purified), and from there – into the ground (no longer posing a danger to the environment).

It is possible to arrange for the discharge of light liquid into a special absorption well if the construction of a septic tank is to occur in an area with soil that has good filtration properties, the capacity to absorb/pass liquid, and a low groundwater level.

In cases where the water is below 2.5 meters, there is no need for ground purification. Next, drainage fields are set up; in this instance, a sizable space is needed for the installation of the complete system.

How to choose a location

Prior to beginning the design and installation of a septic tank, it is essential to thoroughly review all sanitary codes and conduct an on-site soil analysis. The number and volume of chambers in an ideal filtration system are determined in large part by the characteristics of the soil. Here, it’s important to remember that the water must settle for at least three days before being poured into the ground.

Determining the type of soil beforehand is crucial. To accomplish this, a pit is dug, neighbors with wells or boreholes are questioned, and requests are sent to companies doing drilling or building nearby.

• Clay soils (loams, sandy loams) – the filtration coefficient is insufficient for arranging a ground post-treatment system for wastewater. Most clay soils heave (at minus they increase in volume, and then decrease when thawing). Because of this, a reinforced concrete septic tank can be pushed out of the ground or even destroyed.
• Gravel, sand, crushed stone, pebble sedimentary rocks – have excellent absorbent properties, pass water well, do not interfere with its further flow. But it is necessary to remember that crushed stone usually lies near the mountains, and pebbles and gravel – near rivers. In neither case are reinforced concrete septic tanks arranged, since some of the liquid will not pass the entire cleaning cycle.
• Sandy soils of any degree of density/size (except dusty) are ideal for septic tanks.

Prior to designing a septic tank in a private home or the countryside, you should become well-versed in all of the guidelines provided in SNiP 2-4.03.85 and SanPiN 2.2.1/2.1.1200-03. The primary responsibility is to guarantee that the drains do not contaminate drinking water, endanger human health and life, damage the environment, or enter the homes of others.

• Reservoirs with running water – at a distance of at least 20 meters (from a well or borehole).
• Plant landings (bushes, trees, etc.D.) – at least 3 meters for trees and 1 meter for bushes.
• Underground gas pipeline – at a distance of at least 5 meters.
• Any buildings – there should be a distance of 5 meters at least.
• Distance to the road with intensive traffic – at least 5 meters.
• Gathering of neighbors – 2 meters.
• Availability of free space for maneuvering, access for construction and sewage disposal special equipment.
• Car parking – should be away, it is forbidden to put a car above the septic tank.

Installation rules

In addition, it is essential to keep in mind certain guidelines and expert advice when designing and installing the proper septic tank. It is unlikely to be possible to equip a septic tank in a way that is both efficient and functional without a few key requirements. Prior to beginning work, they must be studied.

• The distance between tanks should be at least 50 centimeters. The gap is filled with bitumen and it acts as a buffer in case of soil movements.
• Arranging a cushion of sand and gravel or crushed stone – it will make the structure motionless, regardless of ground movement. And if the tanks leak, this same layer will drain the drains.
• High-quality waterproofing – using several types of sealant to protect the bottom, walls, seams and joints (both inside and outside).
• Calculation of the volume of a septic tank – the larger the tank, the cleaner the water will be after filtration, the less often the tanks will need to be cleaned.
• A high level of groundwater requires concreting the bottom of the trench and attaching it to the tank slab using cables or belts (this will prevent water from pushing the tank out).
• The trench for the septic tank is made 20-30 centimeters larger around the perimeter, so that later the gap can be filled with sand and the top can be further protected.
• The underground filtration system should be located below the drinking water intake point towards the flow of soil water.
• The outlet from the septic tank should be at a depth of maximum 120 centimeters. If there is a risk of freezing of drains, the pipes are insulated with a layer of slag, foam plastic chips.
• The outlet pipes for the sewer are mounted at an angle of at least 2 cm / m, the spray filtration layer – at least 1 cm / m.

Septic tank installation technology

A diagram is ideal when a septic tank is made of reinforced concrete rings. Installing it will be much simpler and the outcome will be more likely to meet expectations if everything has been planned and calculated beforehand. Tanks are constructed along a single line, connecting pipes with an overflow, when designing multi-chamber systems.

The subsequent tanks and the receiving drain compartment are situated in close proximity to one another, but the filter column needs to be separated by a specific distance.

Measurements and design

You must keep in mind that the drains must remain in the septic tank for a minimum of three days when calculating the tank’s volume. That is, you should figure out how much water will drain over the course of three days and add twenty to thirty percent (for example, in the event of unexpectedly high temperatures, increased shower usage, etc.). According to the standards, each person should use roughly 200 liters of water per day (assuming they use all of the conveniences of modern life and household appliances).

For instance, a family of four with a permanent residence would need to calculate the volume of a septic tank as follows: 200 liters times four persons equals 800 liters per day times three, or 2400 liters plus 25%, or 3000 liters, or 3 cubic meters. This is going to be the septic tank’s minimum capacity. The size and quantity of concrete rings for the sewerage system are chosen based on this value.

While selecting rings, keep in mind that the tank’s actual volume needs to be larger than its calculated volume because, when filled, wastewater will only rise to the level of the overflow holes rather than the upper edge. As a result, the number of drains needed should match the pipe level.

Preparation of materials

Concrete rings with locks are preferred when selecting products for a septic tank. They stop the rings from moving and expedite and simplify installation. Consider the integrity of the locks and the levelness of the landing sites when choosing elements.

Large quantities of reinforced concrete rings for sewerage are currently offered for sale. All rings have the same standard height of 90 centimeters, but their diameters can vary from 70 to 200 centimeters. For a septic tank, the size of the concrete rings is chosen based on the necessary volume.

The diameter of the ring determines its volume; a 70 centimeter cross-section ring can hold 0.35 cubic meters, so 9–10 rings are needed to create a 3 cubic meter tank. This means that the septic tank will be deeper. You can use fewer components if you select rings that have a 100 centimeter diameter and a 0.7 cubic meter volume. Typically, the manufacturer indicates the volume; however, if you want to make the calculations easier, you can use specific tables.

The groundwater level is also considered when choosing rings and drawing a diagram of the septic tank. Since the number of rings decreases as the diameter increases and the depth of the treatment plant decreases, the higher it is, the larger the diameter of the rings you need to take.

• Pipes with a diameter of 110-120 millimeters
• river sand
• Crushed limestone of different fractions
• Tees for installation of overflows
• Liquid glass, polyurethane foam, concrete for sealing joints

Three layers of crushed stone or gravel are used in the second chamber to create a soil filter. A smaller fraction of material makes up each sublayer.

• Shovel, bayonet shovel
• Regular building level
• Ladder
• Hammer
• Container for mixing the solution
• Bucket and rope
• Wide brush
• Narrow spatula

You can use pipes with varying diameters and materials to install a sewage system to the tank and carry out overflows. Usually polypropylene or asbestos-cement.

Digging a pit and arranging the bottom

When the ground water level is at its lowest, which is usually during the hottest summer months or after the first frost, excavation work is done. Either manually or with the help of laborers and an excavator, the pit is dug. In Moscow and the surrounding areas, calling in a team or obtaining specialized equipment will come to about the same price.

To allow for easy installation and waterproofing, the pit’s size should be 50–80 centimeters larger than the rings’ dimensions.

The height of the rings, the height of the slab (15 centimeters), and the height of the filtration or monolithic cushion (up to 30 centimeters) are all taken into consideration when determining the size of the pit.

Because one tank needs to be 50 centimeters higher than the other, they typically create either a two-tier pit or two for separate tanks. There is only one pit to arrange when setting up a single-chamber septic tank.

Trenches are dug and communications are laid below the freezing point of the soil to connect pipes. The width and depth of the trenches match the measurements of the rings. Typically, they dig trenches up to 1.5 meters deep and 50 centimeters wide. To allow the waste to drain away due to gravity, the bottom is constructed with a slope of two to three centimeters per meter.

• Alignment, tamping the bottom.
• Filling the bottom with sand in a layer up to 10 centimeters thick, tamping.
• Concreting with a solution made in a ratio of 3:1 (if the lower ring is without a bottom). If the lower ring with a bottom is to be installed, instead of a screed, you can simply fill a 20-centimeter-thick crushed stone cushion.

Installing the rings and sealing the seams between them

The lower ring of the septic tank, which may or may not have a bottom, is mounted first. In the event that the ring is bottomless, a 30-centimeter-thick screed that is 20 centimeters longer than the ring’s dimensions is installed for it. After carefully applying a cement mortar with a high degree of water resistance to the seam, the ring is leveled as much as possible.

As waterproofing agents, bitumen mastic or deep penetration impregnation can be employed. Penetron, aquacement compositions are also appropriate. However, keep in mind that using toxic substances for internal treatment is not recommended because they can kill bacteria.

Mounted on the first ring are the others. Metal brackets are affixed to the exterior, waterproofing and concreting the entry points of the reinforced concrete rings to improve their fixation. Using a crane, the rings are submerged in the tank, the joints are sealed, and soil and sand are used to fill the spaces between the pit’s walls and the tank before water is poured in and tampered with as needed.

Special sheets made of expanded polystyrene are used as insulation for the upper portion of the structure, which is situated above the freezing point of the soil. Sewer hatch necks are formed in the top columns and sealed with concrete or cast iron lids. The second part of the septic tank, which is 80 centimeters above the ground, has a ventilation pipe installed in it.

Installation of overflow pipes

The location of overflow pipes is determined by where the house’s supply pipe is located. The sewer pipe’s highest point is below the ground’s freezing level because gravity should cause the liquid to flow through it. Twenty centimeters below the supply point is where the overflow on the opposite wall of the container is situated.

Using a hammer drill, a hole of the necessary diameter is drilled through the thickness of the ring to connect a sewer pipe to a concrete septic tank. Foam is used to secure the pipe, and the opening is sealed. All of the overflow pipes between tanks and the incoming inlet pipes from the house have tees installed in them, making it simple to clear obstructions in the future and complete other tasks (particularly if modernization is planned).

In order to strengthen pipes’ resistance to below-freezing temperatures, it is recommended that they be insulated and covered.

For private homes and cottages, building an overflow septic tank out of concrete rings is a practical and long-lasting solution. Understanding the right design, materials, and building methods is essential for this do-it-yourself project in order to guarantee a dependable wastewater system. You can build a cost-effective septic tank that satisfies your household’s requirements by adhering to a simple plan. From choosing the appropriate concrete rings to assembling and placing the tank on your property, this guide offers concise instructions and illustrations to assist you every step of the way.

Creation of a filtration well

A well of this type is only dug in ground that allows water to pass through it or absorb it. Sand, gravel, pebbles, and crushed stone allow well-purified wastewater to permeate the soil layers. The well is filled with one soil filter per meter, which lowers the height of the fractions: 35 centimeters of sand on top of a layer of fine gravel, 35 centimeters of sand, and 25 centimeters of large crushed stone.

The lower ring of the structure is perforated in case the drains need to pass through the walls and bottom. Crushed stone fills the spaces between the rings and the pit when everything is assembled as normal. Perforated pipes are used to set up a filtration field. They are positioned on a cushion of gravel and sand, covered in a layer of geotextile, and then filled with dirt.

Step	Description
1. Planning	Decide on the size and location of your septic tank. Ensure it is easily accessible for maintenance and away from water sources.
2. Digging	Excavate a hole based on your planned dimensions. The depth should accommodate the rings and provide enough space for the tank"s overflow capacity.
3. Installing Rings	Lower concrete rings into the hole, stacking them to create the tank structure. Seal joints with waterproofing material to prevent leaks.
4. Inlet and Outlet	Install pipes for waste inflow and overflow. The inlet pipe should be higher than the outlet to ensure proper flow.
5. Backfilling	Backfill around the tank with soil, leaving the top of the last ring exposed for access. Ensure the area is level and stable.
6. Ventilation and Access	Install a ventilation pipe to allow gases to escape and a secure cover for maintenance access.

For private homes and cottages, building an overflow septic tank out of concrete rings is a cost-effective and long-lasting waste management solution. Even though it takes some time and materials, this method can be completed with minimal construction experience and yields long-lasting benefits. With the right knowledge and parts, homeowners can construct a wastewater treatment system that manages waste products efficiently and doesn’t harm the environment.

Making sure the tank complies with environmental standards and local regulations requires careful planning of both its location and size. Leaks can be avoided and the system’s effectiveness guaranteed by installing concrete rings correctly and paying close attention to joint sealing. Furthermore, routine maintenance is essential to extending the tank’s life and avoiding expensive repairs.

Homeowners can benefit from a dependable waste disposal solution that raises the value of their property with a well-built septic tank. This do-it-yourself method not only saves costs but also gives you a sense of pride in building a functional and eco-friendly system. Any do-it-yourself enthusiast can create a satisfying overflow septic tank out of concrete rings by following the proper procedures and guidelines.

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