How to make a house from aerated concrete (gas block): building a house with your own hands without construction experience

Aerated concrete, or gas block, can be used to build a house, and many do-it-yourselfers, even with no prior construction experience, can pull this off. Because of its superior insulation qualities, lightweight design, and ease of handling, aerated concrete is a widely preferred option. This guide will take you step-by-step through the process of building your own home, enabling you to fulfill a lifelong dream.

The ease of use of aerated concrete is one of its key benefits. Gas blocks are ideal for novice builders because they are simple to cut to size using basic tools, unlike conventional bricks or concrete blocks. In addition to being very energy-efficient, this material offers good thermal insulation, keeping your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

It is imperative that you carefully plan your project before you begin construction. This include planning the layout of your home, securing the required licenses, and assembling all the equipment and supplies. A well-thought-out plan will ensure that you stay on schedule and within budget by streamlining and managing the construction process.

We will go over every step of building your aerated concrete home, from laying the foundation to finishing the walls, in the sections that follow. We’ll support you every step of the way with helpful advice and unambiguous directions. After reading this guide, you’ll be equipped with the information and self-assurance needed to construct a safe and livable house on your own.

With the correct assistance, even novices can successfully complete the accessible project of building a home out of gas block or aerated concrete. Anyone can build a sturdy, energy-efficient home without any prior construction experience by following this step-by-step guide, which will take you through every step of the process from planning and foundation work to laying the blocks and finishing touches.

Properties of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete homes are built using a specific technology that requires consideration of the material’s properties, which are crucial for producing a sturdy and dependable structure. Studying the characteristics of aerated concrete is necessary first.

Aerated concrete that is both structural and heat-insulating is a good choice for low-rise construction. Its density falls between 500 and 900 kg/m^ and it is associated with the D500-D900 brand. It exhibits the best combination of strength and heat conservation.

Building homes with aerated concrete blocks and autoclaved hardening material is preferable. Natural-dried blocks may show diminished strength and resilience to different impacts.

• Low thermal conductivity – within 0.12-0.19 W / m ° C.
• Good vapor permeability – in the range of 0.15-0.20 mg / m h Pa.
• Optimum compressive strength – about 1-1.5 MPa.

• Safety and environmental friendliness – aerated concrete is non-flammable, biologically inert, does not emit toxins or harmful substances into the air.
• Large sizes, which simplifies and speeds up installation – standard dimensions of the block are 25-30 centimeters in height, 50-62.5 centimeters in length, 10-40 centimeters in thickness.
• Low weight of blocks, which makes it possible to carry out construction from aerated concrete with your own hands, without the involvement of special equipment and a large number of workers.
• Easy processing – aerated concrete is easily cut, sawed, drilled and processed with any hand tool.

Cellular concrete comes in a variety of sizes and smooth-edged blocks with a tongue-and-groove lock. Thin profile and partition elements are additional options. Certain blocks have unique end recesses that make it easy to build an aerated concrete house. High bending strength reinforced beams and slabs are available.

Foundation for a house made of foam blocks

Since the foundation serves as the structural core of the entire building, precise calculations should be used in its design. Mistakes in the foundation’s construction could result in the building’s total destruction, which would be irreversible. The house’s foundation cannot be redone if the roof can be reinstalled. Therefore, the foundation’s design and calculations should be the first step in building a house using aerated concrete blocks.

Because it is lightweight, aerated concrete doesn’t need a substantial foundation. Aerated concrete blocks weigh two to three times less per wall than bricks. However, because aerated concrete is so brittle and even the smallest amount of foundation shrinkage can result in wall cracks, the foundation needs to be stable.

Choosing the type of foundation

The total mass of the building, the load from wind and snow, the level of groundwater, the bearing capacity and composition of the soil, the presence or absence of a basement, climatic features, the relief of the entire area, surrounding buildings and their location in relation to the future house are the main criteria and factors that are taken into consideration when choosing the type of foundation for a house made of aerated concrete with your hands.

The following foundation types are selected for a house built with aerated concrete: slab, pile, and strip. The type of foundation can be prefabricated or monolithic depending on how it is installed. Pile types include hanging, buried, and ground grillage. The strip foundation can be constructed as a beam that is positioned either above or below the soil’s seasonal freezing point. Laying the soles at various depths is another aspect of the monolithic slab.

Before starting to build a house out of aerated concrete with your own hands or through a developer, you must conduct soil research. Not just between regions, but even within the same area, the soil can vary greatly.

Given the characteristics of the soil, the type of foundation is selected, and it is preferable that all computations be done by professionals. It’s hard to calculate everything on your own.

• On the territory, dense homogeneous soil is noted, which is determined by digging pits in the corners of the future building to a depth greater than the depth of the foundation by 50 centimeters.
• If the groundwater level is low – from 3 meters.

• When there are no marshy plants around – if they are there, situations of interstratal water outflow or flooding are possible.
• If there is a level site for construction, excluding elevation changes.
• When it is possible to arrange drainage designed for the effective removal of melt/rainwater.
• If there are no cracks or foundation subsidence in neighboring buildings and houses.

In all other situations, geological surveys must be completed, all soil properties must be ascertained, and various foundation-building options must be taken into consideration before constructing a home using aerated concrete. It is preferable to assign the work to an independent expert or a design firm.

Shallow strip foundation

This kind of foundation exhibits the best bearing capacity to support the weight of other components, such as aerated concrete walls and roofing. A shallow foundation is simple to install, reasonably priced, and resistant to frost heaving.

• Marking the boundaries of the future foundation using pegs and cords, checking the geometry with a tape measure and optical instruments.
• Installing formwork at the corners and at the intersections of walls made of 2 posts and a board nailed between them. Here, mark the position of the axes of the structure.
• Digging a trench up to 70-100 centimeters deep with preliminary removal of the fertile soil layer up to 30 centimeters thick. Filling the bottom of the trench with a cushion of crushed stone and sand, the layer should be a total height of 30-50 centimeters. Next, perform layer-by-layer compaction.

• Installation of removable formwork made of wooden panels, or assembly of a permanent structure made of polystyrene foam. The structure should rise above the ground by a maximum of 30 centimeters, the optimal width of the strip is 30-40 centimeters. A layer of waterproofing is laid inside with overlap on the formwork.
• Assembling a reinforcement frame from rods with a cross-section of 12 millimeters in the amount of 4-6 pieces. Fastening a sleeve from pipe cuttings, where communications will be laid.
• Filling the formwork with concrete of at least M200, high-quality layer-by-layer compaction with a mechanical or manual tool.
• Dismantling the formwork after the concrete has gained strength – after 28 days.

In order to prevent moisture damage to the house, it is advisable to install drainage in parallel with the foundation. Installing a temporary blind area and doing heat/waterproofing work are important. All of this will stop the heaving from causing the foundation to collapse.

A house made of aerated concrete: laying blocks

It is imperative that you become acquainted with the characteristics of aerated concrete prior to constructing a home because they have a direct bearing on the selection of construction technology and must be taken into account.

• Masonry from aerated concrete blocks is afraid of bending loads, it can deform.
• Window/door openings significantly weaken the masonry, especially when it comes to load-bearing walls.
• The frame does not provide the required rigidity in the areas of wall junctions.
• In the absence of a ventilation gap made under the finishing material, moisture can lead to destruction.
• Close location of buildings and soil subsidence can cause uneven settlement of the foundation, which has a detrimental effect on fragile aerated concrete.

Aerated concrete houses with one or two stories are susceptible to the development of cracks in different shapes; inclined, vertical, parabolic, and V-shaped cracks are the most dangerous. The masonry’s bearing capacity is greatly diminished if the crack appears from above. Such issues can be avoided with the use of specialized technology for aerated concrete home construction, which needs to be adhered to.

Rules for laying aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete homes are constructed in compliance with SP, SN, and SNiP rules and regulations. In order to avoid common mistakes, it’s also crucial to consider the advice of skilled craftsmen who have constructed multiple houses.

• All cellular blocks with high water absorption must be laid on a layer of cut-off waterproofing, laid along the top of the base.
• Before starting work, slats-orders with a stretched cord between them are installed at the corners of the building. This allows you to lay the first row evenly. Marks must be applied to the slats in accordance with the position of each row.
• Laying must be carried out with bandaging of seams, the displacement of the upper row above the lower row is about 8-12 centimeters (0.4 values ​​of the block height). When the installation of one level is completed, the cord is stretched along the new mark.

• The second and subsequent rows are laid on special glue, since the cement-sand mixture can cause cold bridges.
• Additional elements are installed in the frames of openings, along the edges or corners of the walls, the length of which must be at least 11.5 centimeters.
• Internal and external walls must be joined to a depth of at least 20 centimeters.
• Reinforcement of masonry with steel rods and meshes is mandatory.

At ambient temperatures between +5 and +35 degrees, it is possible to construct a house using aerated concrete blocks. Special antifreeze additives are added to the masonry adhesive when working in the winter to stop it from hardening too soon.

Tool

It’s important to prepare ahead of time for all the tools required when considering how to construct a house by hand. The following tools are needed for construction: a hand saw, a grinder, a grater, a brush for cleaning after cutting blocks, a pencil or ruler for marking, a laser level or level for ensuring evenness, a notched trowel, trowels, a rubber mallet, and a hand saw.

Moreover, it is advisable to prepare a box for blending the cement-sand mixture, a shovel, a ladder, and scaffolding for assembling the blocks of the upper rows.

Laying aerated concrete block

The general steps in building a wall are as follows: marking the locations of openings and walls on the base or ceiling, attaching the ordering strip and tightening the cord, arranging the cement-sand mortar, installing the first row of gas blocks, examining the geometry, arranging the blocks in rows and providing reinforcement, chopping extra components, cleaning them, and arranging.

Laying the first row

Determine the foundation’s highest point first. Then, wet the block’s lower surface with water and place it atop a layer of cement-sand mortar to level it out. Wet the aerated concrete to prevent it from setting too quickly with the mixture. Using a rubber mallet, blocks are adjusted after being laid horizontally and verified with a level.

In the event that an extra component is required, the product is cut to fit the measured size of the row’s space. After using a float to level the ends, glue is applied to all sides of the block, and it is put in place.

The top row is laid starting with a whole block over a sawn one in order to keep the bandage in place. In order to remove local stress in the areas where there are height differences between the elements, the entire surface is leveled with a float after the row is installed. Using a brush, the dust and fragments of aerated concrete are removed.

Second and subsequent rows

Construction proceeds fairly quickly; you can lay the second row one and a half to two hours after the first row is laid. Beginning at the corners, the load-bearing walls are constructed with the blocks oriented both horizontally and vertically. The method of pulling the cord is the same as it was for the first row. A maximum of 2 to 5 millimeters of glue should be applied to the blocks at the ends before the stone is pressed into position from below. Any excess glue is then removed with a trowel.

The position of the block can be adjusted during the first 15 minutes, excess glue is wiped off with a wet rag, the solid solution is removed with a tool. Using the same technique, the next rows are all laid with glue filled in between the seams.

Reinforcement of aerated concrete

Without reinforcement, it is impossible to construct an aerated concrete house by hand; it will not be sturdy enough and may quickly develop cracks or even collapse. Based on past experiences, it is imperative to reinforce aerated concrete homes, especially when constructing in seismically active areas, on soils prone to subsidence, or in hurricane-prone areas.

Reinforcement rules

Reinforcement is carried out in a specific way in standard projects, assuming that there are no seismological factors, winds, or other impacts.

• First row, which rests on the foundation.
• Every 4th row, provided that the wall length is more than 6 meters.
• At the junctions of the walls and at the corners.
• In the areas of support of rafters, lintels, beams, ceilings, balcony slabs, stairs.
• All columns and vertical posts.
• The lower part of the window opening structure.
• All areas with increased load.

Reinforced belt

Where the floor beams or slabs rest on the upper row is where the reinforcement frame is formed. The belt detracts from the components above and uniformly distributes the load by joining the load-bearing walls composed of blocks and partitions into a single structure.

The formwork is put together as a continuous strip that goes around the building’s exterior and the interior partitions. Bricks, wooden panels, or U-shaped profiles are employed. It is possible to mount a board inside and thin partition blocks outside.

Class A3 steel rods with a cross-section of 12 millimeters must be used, and they must be arranged in two rows at the top and bottom. The clamps have a diameter of 8 to 10 millimeters and are mounted in steps of 20 to 30 centimeters. U/G-shaped products are used at the corners and in the joints of the walls to join the rods together with an overlap.

The 3-5 centimeter thick polystyrene foam boards that are positioned along the outer wall in the formwork to prevent the structure from freezing must be considered when tying the frame. After that, pre-mounted anchors or studs are poured into the concrete M200/M300 to secure the ceilings and rafter beams.

Reinforcement of masonry

Several forms of reinforcement are used to keep the walls stable and rigid, preventing deformation. Aerated concrete cottage construction offers a variety of options.

1. Horizontal reinforcement with metal rods – holes 25 mm deep are made in the blocks with a chaser, they are filled with glue, reinforcement with a cross-section of up to 8 mm is laid with an overlap joint, bent at the corners, pressed in, excess glue is removed.
2. Using perforated tapes – galvanized steel 1 mm thick, cut into strips 16 mm wide, fastened to the blocks with self-tapping screws (grooves are not needed). Reinforcement involves a two-layer laying of tapes.
3. Masonry nets – steel, glass basalt or fiberglass are laid out on the masonry with an indentation from the edges of 5 centimeters. Metal nets are embedded in mortar, composite ones are fastened with glue.

Polymer nets are thought to be superior because they exhibit high tensile strength, high adhesion, do not corrode, and do not form cold bridges.

Reinforcement of window openings of aerated concrete houses

The locations of window openings must be strengthened, and this is not as hard as it may seem. There could be fractures if there is insufficient or improper reinforcing.

• Cutting grooves in the masonry with a wall chaser that are 60 centimeters longer than the width of the window on both sides.
• Pouring glue into the groove.
• Installation of class A3 reinforcement 8-10 millimeters, pressing it into the glue, removing excess mass.
• It is possible to make lintels with your own hands from monolithic concrete or metal corner. You can also buy ready-made ones. The cross-section of the structure depends on the width of the opening.

Multidirectional stresses operate where the lintels are at rest. The beam must be installed in accordance with the value of the minimum length of the output beyond the masonry for the wall weight to be distributed uniformly. It is preferable to avoid enlarging the pier’s width by more than 60 centimeters between the apertures. You can use a brick or reinforce it vertically to lay out a structure that is narrower.

If the openings are no wider than 120 centimeters and the masonry height is at least two-thirds of the width above them, the lintel need not be present. Two rows of reinforcement may be installed in this situation; however, they must be inserted into the wall at least 50 centimeters deep.

Vertical reinforcement

When building a house, the plan needs to be detailed step-by-step and include both required and optional components. While horizontal reinforcement is always necessary, vertical strengthening is only applicable in the following scenarios: the home is located in an earthquake-prone area; there is a significant wind load; the site has complex terrain; aerated concrete with a density of less than 400 kg/m3 is used in columns and pillars; there are wide openings and narrow partitions; and the points of support of heavy structures and elements are all relevant.

Vertical type reinforcement involves drilling grooves in the walls from bottom to top, mounting O-shaped profiles, inserting one to four steel rods with a minimum diameter of 14 millimeters, and then filling the spaces with M250/M300 concrete.

Step	Description
1. Planning and Design	Create a simple design, get necessary permits, and plan the layout of your house.
2. Foundation	Excavate the ground, lay a concrete foundation, and ensure it"s level and dry.
3. Wall Construction	Start laying the aerated concrete blocks from the corners, using mortar or adhesive.
4. Reinforcement	Insert metal rods or mesh in the walls to add strength and stability.
5. Door and Window Openings	Leave spaces for doors and windows, install lintels above openings.
6. Roof	Construct the roof framework, then cover with roofing material.
7. Insulation and Finishing	Add insulation, plaster the walls, and complete the interior finishes.
8. Utilities Installation	Install electrical wiring, plumbing, and heating systems.
9. Final Touches	Paint, add fixtures, and clean up the site to complete your house.

Even without prior construction experience, building a house from aerated concrete blocks yourself is a manageable project. You can build a sturdy and cozy home by adhering to precise, step-by-step instructions. Aerated concrete blocks are a great option for do-it-yourself construction because they are lightweight, manageable, and offer superior insulation.

It’s crucial to plan ahead, measure precisely, and take your time at each step of the process. With the correct equipment and a little perseverance, laying the foundation, building the walls, and installing the roof can all be done methodically. Never be afraid to consult experts or trustworthy sources to make sure you’re headed in the right direction.

Never forget that safety comes first. To keep yourself safe when building, wear the appropriate safety equipment and follow the right procedures. Living in a home that you have constructed yourself can be a source of great satisfaction if you put in the necessary effort and pay close attention to detail. For those who are willing to put in the work, this dream can come true thanks to aerated concrete blocks.

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