Your outdoor space can be transformed by adding a garden border for paths and flower beds, which will add both beauty and functionality. A well-made border can be the difference between having soil that stays in place, having grass not creep into your flower beds, or just adding some aesthetic appeal.
It’s a sensible decision to border your garden with concrete. It is resilient to weather, long-lasting, and moldable into a variety of shapes to fit your style preferences. Furthermore, even if you’re new to do-it-yourself projects, you can complete this one on your own with a little preparation and some simple supplies.
We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of making a concrete garden border in this tutorial. From planning and preparation to mixing and pouring the concrete, we’ll cover it all to make sure you have all the knowledge you need to finish the job successfully.
After reading this post, you should be able to construct a strong, eye-catching border that will complement your garden for many years to come. Now let’s get going!
Step | Description |
1 | Plan and mark the border layout |
2 | Dig a trench along the marked line |
3 | Pour a layer of gravel for the base |
4 | Mix concrete according to instructions |
5 | Pour the concrete into the trench |
6 | Level and smooth the concrete surface |
7 | Let the concrete cure for 24-48 hours |
8 | Remove any formwork and clean the area |
- Border arrangement with concrete blocks
- We make calculations and preparatory work
- We make stones for fencing
- Matrixes
- We prepare a sand-cement mixture for pouring into the molds
- The process of pouring concrete mixtures in matrices
- Prepare the base for the curb and install the prepared blocks
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Border arrangement with concrete blocks
- We make calculations and preparatory work.
- Prepare the tool and purchase the necessary materials.
- We manufacture curb blocks.
- We prepare the base for their installation.
- We install curb stones on concrete.
We make calculations and preparatory work
Prior to utilizing curb blocks to construct a fence, the following considerations must be made:
- Its territorial location on the site.
- The width, height and length of the future structure.
Crucial! Recall that there must always be enough room inside curb fencing, lawns, or flower beds to allow a lawnmower to pass freely. This must be considered when performing computations.
The amount of material needed will depend on the size of the fence, so you’ll need to calculate that and make sure you have all the tools and equipment you might need to arrange the curb.
Crucial! Every concrete curb block should have a maximum length of 100–120 centimeters. If not, it might just break. The product width should be 1:2 or 1:4 in relation to the product height.
The location where the curb block manufacturing process will take place needs to be ready next. This should be a fairly level surface (use a level to make sure), completely flat, and covered in a thick layer of polyethylene with no wrinkles or folds. If not, the completed products’ surfaces won’t be perfectly flat.
We make stones for fencing
- We buy ready-made forms that are used to produce curb blocks, or we make them ourselves.
- We prepare the concrete mixture.
- We pour it into pre-prepared forms.
- We remove the stones from the matrices.
Matrixes
You can make your own plastic or metal forms if the size, color scheme, or price of pre-made forms don’t quite suit your needs. You can use the following to create a curb block matrix:
- Metal sheets (at least 7 mm thick).
- Moisture-resistant plywood (at least 5 mm thick).
- Metal channel (U-shaped).
- Boards or other materials at hand.
- Particleboard sheets.
Crucial! The primary requirement for selecting a material for mold-making is that it have a processed, smooth, and level surface. One more piece of advice: you can rent the matrices if you don’t have the time or desire to create them yourself.
When creating a mold out of a channel, we use a grinder to create cuts, or grooves, in both of its shelves (on each side), into which we subsequently insert sturdy metal plates, which serve as the matrix’s ends.
Note: In this instance, the height and width of each border block will match the dimensions of the selected channel’s sides.
We use metal ties or self-tapping screws to secure the mold made of boards or chipboard sheets.
We prepare a sand-cement mixture for pouring into the molds
We mix sand, crushed stone, and M400 cement in a 1:3:2 ratio to create a concrete mixture, and we mix M500 cement in a 1:4:2 ratio. The following is the work algorithm:
- Mix sifted sand (it should not contain any clay impurities: this will affect the quality of the finished product) with cement in a concrete mixer for 5 minutes.
Be aware that the cement-sand mixture produced in a concrete mixer is of higher quality than that produced by hand, which also takes a lot longer.
- Gradually (that is, in small portions) add crushed stone (pre-soaked in water so that it is saturated with liquid and has better adhesion to the concrete) and clean water (there should be enough of it so that the solution has a viscous consistency) to the resulting dry mixture. Remember: if we add plasticizers and dyes to the solution, we first dissolve them in water, and then pour it into the drum.
Crucial! Don’t stop the concrete mixer as you add each ingredient to it.
The process of pouring concrete mixtures in matrices
- Immediately before pouring the concrete mixture, we thoroughly clean the matrices (from the remains of the solution) and place them on a plane, using a level.
- Lubricate the bottom and internal surfaces of the molds with oil (used automobile oil or regular sunflower oil). This must be done so that the castings can be easily removed from the dies.
Speaking of which, These are additional uses for polyethylene, which is also used to line the mold’s interior. The challenge is to do it without creating any folds or creases. If not, there might be surface irregularities in the final product.
- If you want the concrete blocks to be original, you can place all kinds of decorative elements (for example, sea pebbles, shells, broken porcelain or colored glass, as well as natural stone) at the bottom of the mold.
- We pour the cement-sand mixture in several stages: first half of the total volume; then we lay the reinforcement, that is, along the entire length of the matrix we place metal rods on pebbles (or plastic stands) and many transverse ones, which we tie with wire; and only then the second layer of solution to the very top of the form.
Crucial! The reinforcement frame’s dimensions should be such that it does not extend outward and does not come into contact with the form’s walls. If not, the metal will eventually start to rust and become unsightly.
- We level the surface of the future block with a trowel.
- We compact it (that is, remove air bubbles from the mixture). Of course, the best option would be to use a vibrating table. If you do not have one, you can use a metal pin (we pierce the solution with it) and a hammer (we use it to tap the formwork).
- After two days (if the weather is warm and sunny) or three or four, we embroider the formwork, trying not to damage the corners of the form.
Note: To remove concrete blocks from the matrices, turn the forms over carefully (that is, without making sudden movements).
- We dry the finished blocks in the shade for 2-3 weeks, periodically watering them with water (in this case, drying will occur evenly and they will not crack in the future).
Crucial! If the blocks can’t be kept in the shade, they need to be covered with burlap and wet from time to time.
Prepare the base for the curb and install the prepared blocks
- Mark the area using pegs and cords stretched between them.
- Dig a trench in accordance with the outline, the width of which should be such that after installing the stone on each side of the curb along its entire length there remains a distance of about 10-15 centimeters. Calculate the depth so that the crushed stone layer is at least 10 cm, the thickness of the concrete mortar laid on top of it is about 5 cm, and the curb blocks themselves rise above the canvas of the garden path (you choose the height yourself).
- Tamp the bottom of the trench.
- Lay geotextile. This must be done so that the sand does not mix with the soil and, as a result, to increase the service life of the curb.
- Pour large sand (about 10 cm thick).
- We put geokan again.
- Crushed stone, which we thoroughly trim.
- We knead a thick solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1, as well as a small amount of water (exactly as much so that you can stir the mixture).
- We lay a cement-sand mixture with a layer of 6-7 centimeters on crushed stone.
- To properly expose concrete blocks, pull the cord at the height of the alleged border.
- We lay stones on the cement-sand mixture, aligning them with a level and tapping with a rubber hammer.
- After the concrete solution grabs, we fall asleep the gap left between the border and the edge of the trench, crushed stone (or sand) and thoroughly trim it. Pour a layer of soil on top.
- We try not to touch concrete blocks for 2.5-3 weeks.
Making a garden border for walkways and flower beds is an easy and satisfying do-it-yourself project that improves the appearance and usefulness of your outdoor area. Because concrete is a versatile and long-lasting material, you can shape and adjust the borders to fit the particular arrangement of your garden. With the least amount of hassle, this guide will lead you through every step of the process, from site preparation and concrete mixing to pouring and finishing the borders. The end result will look professional.
Making a garden border for your flower beds and pathways is a fun project that can improve your outdoor area’s appearance and usefulness significantly. Simple tools and a few materials will allow you to create strong, eye-catching borders that will keep your garden tidy.
The instructions provided in this guide will enable you to build a border that complements the design and requirements of your garden. The work you put in will be well worth it, whether you choose a traditional concrete edge or something more ornate.
When preparing and installing, don’t forget to take your time and make sure everything is secure and level. In addition to adding aesthetic value, a well-built garden border protects your plants and clearly demarcates your garden’s sections.
You’ll have a more orderly and eye-catching garden once your new borders are in place. There won’t be any dirt or mulch on your pathways, and the crisp, defined border around your flower beds will add to their overall beauty. Cheers to your successful gardening!