How to make a concrete floor in a bathhouse with your own hands – a step-by-step guide

Even though installing a concrete floor in your bathroom might seem like a difficult undertaking, you can do it yourself if you have the appropriate resources and advice. Concrete floors give your bathhouse a strong foundation, are long-lasting, and require little upkeep. This guarantees that your bathhouse will last. We’ll take you step-by-step through the entire process in this guide, from site preparation to surface finishing.

We’ll talk about the required preparations first. This entails choosing the appropriate supplies, assembling your equipment, and making sure the ground is level and compacted. Don’t skip these preliminary steps because proper preparation is essential for a durable, stable floor.

After the site is prepared, we will mix and pour the concrete. You can ensure an even pour and get the proper consistency for your mix by following the step-by-step instructions in this section. You’ll discover how to spread and level the concrete to ensure proper setting and the formation of a solid foundation.

Lastly, we’ll talk about the final details. This covers any extra treatments or sealants that can shield your floor from moisture and wear, as well as curing the concrete to optimize its strength and durability. You can add both functionality and value to your property by creating a professional-quality concrete floor for your bathhouse by following these instructions.

Step Description
1. Prepare the base Clear the area of debris, level the ground, and compact it well.
2. Install formwork Build a wooden frame around the area where the concrete will be poured.
3. Add gravel layer Spread a layer of gravel for drainage and compact it firmly.
4. Lay a moisture barrier Place a plastic sheet or waterproof membrane over the gravel.
5. Install reinforcement Place steel mesh or rebar on top of the moisture barrier for added strength.
6. Mix and pour concrete Mix concrete according to instructions and pour it into the formwork, spreading it evenly.
7. Level and smooth Use a screed to level the surface, then smooth it with a trowel.
8. Cure the concrete Keep the surface moist for several days to allow the concrete to cure properly.
9. Remove formwork Once the concrete is fully cured, remove the wooden formwork carefully.

Why is a concrete floor preferable

Nowadays, concrete floors are thought to be the best choice for a ground-level restroom.

One of the three flooring options—clay, wood, or concrete—is typically selected for a bathhouse. It is important to take a closer look at the characteristics of each material in order to comprehend why the final choice is better.

Bathroom flooring options include:

Composition of the floor cake

It is important that you thoroughly understand the technology before using your hands to pour the concrete floor in the bathhouse. A structure of multiple layers is constructed to provide a warm and durable floor: sand is applied to compacted soil, followed by gravel; a thick layer of polyethylene film is laid; a rough screed is created; a waterproofing layer is put in place; thermal insulation is installed; and finally, a finishing screed completes the process. You can lay the floor on any kind of soil with this option.

These days, a bathhouse’s concrete floor can be poured either directly onto the ground or onto special logs, which creates a ventilated subfloor. The technology selected is determined by the cost estimate, the specifications, and the working environment.

Concrete floor device on the ground

With your hands, you can create a concrete floor in a bathhouse directly on the base after removing a layer that is 40–50 centimeters thick. Following compaction, a layer of 15 centimeters of gravel and up to 50 centimeters of sand are poured into the hole and compacted once more. According to the design and markings, a screed is poured onto the sand at a specific slope.

Typically, two layers of screed are poured: a rough layer and a finishing layer, with layers of waterproofing and thermal insulation placed in between.

Concrete floor with ventilated subfloor

The bathhouse’s concrete floor is supported by wooden joists and has an area beneath it that is ventilated. Therefore, installing extra ventilation systems in the concrete screed is not necessary. After being pre-treated with specific antiseptics, wooden logs are positioned in a grid-like system of beams measuring 10 by 20 centimeters in diameter.

The joists support a plank subfloor composed of boards that are 2-4 centimeters thick. They also provide a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing. A concrete screed reinforced with steel mesh is only poured after this.

Preparing the base

It is vital to correctly prepare the base before adding concrete to the bathroom floor. If not, the floor will not last as long, have poor strength and dependability, and probably not offer the required comfort.

Alignment

A layer of soil and organic matter are removed from the base prior to beginning work. Typically, 40–50 centimeters is sufficient. Subsequently, the floor is leveled, and a pit is created in the middle of the space to receive the bathhouse water.

The drainage pipe with a cross-section of 10–20 centimeters is inserted at an angle into the corner to carry out the pit’s water drain, which extends beyond the foundation. This plan will make it feasible to maintain optimal comfort levels during bathhouse operations and prevent large water buildup.

Compactment

Prior to pouring concrete, the surface needs to be compacted using a hand rammer made of wood or a vibrating plate. A layer of five to ten centimeters of sand is applied to the compacted soil, followed by a ten centimeter layer of gravel.

It is necessary to fully compact both layers. They will shield the bathhouse’s concrete floor from problems such as rising soil moisture.

Rough screed

In a bathroom, a rough screed must be completed prior to pouring concrete. Generally, such a layer has a maximum thickness of 10 cm (ideally 5-7).

Mixture recipe

You’ll need crushed stone, gravel, cement, and sand to prepare the mixture. It is preferable to select M400 concrete when unsure of the type required for a bathhouse’s base. Low-quality coatings can result from material savings.

Recipe for concrete mortar:

  • Cement M400 – part
  • River sand – 1.2 parts
  • Crushed stone, gravel fraction 5-10 millimeters – 2.7 parts

Mixing

Before mixing, each component needs to be precisely measured. The process determines the water volume: the solution needs to have the ideal consistency; too much water lengthens the curing time and causes cracks, while too little water prevents the surface from being leveled.

When using your hands to pour concrete in a bathhouse, you typically add water in small amounts and stir the mixture until it becomes thick and evenly moistened.

Insulation

A 200 micron-thick layer of polyethylene film is applied to the gravel prior to the rough screed being poured. It will prevent mortar and water from penetrating the gravel, reducing the possibility of a capillary moisture bridge and the concrete screed’s strength decline.

After the insulation layer is laid, the floor in the concrete bathhouse can be poured. The pouring is carried out layer by layer and quickly, carefully leveling the surface with the desired slope. Then they take a break in the work, waiting for the screed to harden and gain strength (2-3 days). The floor is moistened these days by spraying water or covering it with a damp cloth.

Concreting the pit

Before adding concrete to the pit, fill it with crushed stone. Next, add the solution in a layer that is five centimeters thick. To stop the solution from entering, it is best to cover the drainage pipe’s head with a lid or cloth in advance.

The pit’s walls are filled with concrete that is at least seven centimeters thick. To finish, formwork consisting of moisture-resistant plywood or boards is erected around the pit’s perimeter once the bottom has solidified. Concrete is then mixed and poured.

Carrying out hydro- and thermal insulation

The installation of insulation layers is an important consideration when researching the topic and attempting to comprehend the correct way to pour concrete in a bathroom. The floor won’t last long or be comfortable without the right protection. It is necessary to provide protection from the soil and from moisture within the room.

Laying roofing felt

Roofing felt is typically used for waterproofing, and it is applied in two layers. The entire room is covered in roofing felt, which is rolled out with a 3-5 centimeter overlap and bend on the walls. Bitumen mastic is applied to the sheets where they overlap and are in close proximity to the walls.

In the same manner, but with a slight tangent to the first layer, the second waterproofing layer is applied. Two layers of waterproofing must also be applied to the pit’s walls and bottom.

Installation of EPSP

Thermal insulation needs to be addressed in a bathhouse before a concrete floor is poured. Extruded polystyrene foam, which comes in slabs that are five centimeters thick, is the best option. The material exhibits good mechanical strength and density indicators and is not afraid of moisture. Because of the tongue and groove protrusions around the edges of the slabs, a continuous layer of thermal insulation can be quickly and simply created.

The pit is first to be completed, after which the walls and floor are lined up flush, and finally the slabs are installed on the floor. Polyurethane foam is used to carefully fill any spaces between the material to form a monolithic layer of thermal insulation.

Although installing a concrete floor in your bathroom may seem like a difficult undertaking, you can accomplish expert results on your own with the correct advice. This comprehensive how-to will take you through every step of the process, from base preparation to finishing touches, guaranteeing that your bathhouse floor is long-lasting, water-resistant, and simple to maintain. You’ll find helpful advice and step-by-step instructions to help you confidently take on this project and enjoy a sturdy, expertly constructed floor in your bathroom, regardless of your level of experience with do-it-yourself projects.

Finishing screed

Two screeds are made in order to properly pour concrete onto the bathhouse floor. The finishing coating is poured after the insulating and rough layers. The solution is made in the same manner as the rough screed, with a layer up to 10 centimeters and consideration for the requirement of a floor slope in the direction of the water drain.

Reinforcement

A 5 millimeter-cross section reinforcing mesh made of steel rods is used to reinforce the screed. Because there aren’t any heavy objects on the bathhouse floor, it’s acceptable in certain situations to replace the steel mesh with fiberglass. The screed is made to be 7–10 centimeters thick, with the reinforcing frame placed in the center and filled with a minimum of 3 centimeters of concrete on all sides.

Preparation of the solution

M400 or M500 are preferred when selecting a concrete grade for the bathhouse foundation (the floor’s finishing layer). The ratios remain the same as when the mixture is ready for rough pouring. Using a concrete mixer to prepare the mixture is preferable.

You can use pre-made dry mixtures designed for use in high humidity rooms, or you can take a 1:3 mixture of cement and sand.

Process of work

A pit is the starting point for the finishing layer of a concrete floor in a restroom. Prior to building a wooden formwork and filling the walls up to the level of the thermal insulation layer, they first create a finishing screed for the bottom. Here, they have to make sure the mixture stays outside of the drainage pipe (it needs to be covered with a rag or a lid).

After that, the mixture needs to be equally spread in a layer as thick as seven centimeters across the whole floor. Then, the reinforcing frame needs to be laid out and filled with a solution that is at least three to four centimeters thick.

Drying and elimination of defects

The finishing screed must be kept moist during the two to three days that it is dried. If at that point, cracks started to show in the dried concrete, most likely as a result of moisture evaporating quickly. The coating can be fixed in this situation by carefully enlarging the cracks and filling them with a unique repair compound made of equal parts sand and cement.

Pouring concrete flooring for your bathroom can be a satisfying undertaking that offers a strong, long-lasting base. You can make sure that your floor is built correctly and prepared to withstand the particular conditions of a bathhouse environment by following the instructions provided in this guide.

Make sure the ground is level and compacted before beginning by preparing the site. Your concrete floor will have a strong foundation as a result. After that, erect your formwork to hold the concrete in place and add a gravel layer for drainage—this is an essential step in preventing water buildup and extending the life of your floor.

Take your time mixing and pouring the concrete to ensure a uniform mixture, and fill the form evenly by following a methodical process. If the concrete surface is leveled and smoothed properly, it will look professional and guarantee that your floor is both practical and aesthetically beautiful.

Lastly, give the concrete a few days to properly cure by keeping it moist and covered. For the concrete to achieve its maximum strength and longevity, this step is necessary. Your new concrete floor will be ready for use after it has dried, giving your bathhouse activities a strong base for many years to come.

In addition to saving money, taking on this project yourself will give you valuable experience and the satisfaction of a job well done. A well-planned and meticulously executed concrete floor can fulfill your requirements and elevate the overall standard of your bathroom.

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Dmitry Sokolov

Chief engineer in a large construction company. I have extensive experience in managing construction projects and implementing modern technologies.

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