Features of wall plaster in winter

Winter plastering poses particular difficulties that call for specialized methods and supplies. Plaster is more likely to set improperly in colder temperatures, which could result in problems like poor adhesion or cracking. For a finish to be smooth and long-lasting, it is imperative to know how to handle these circumstances.

The temperature of the area where plastering is done is an important consideration. It’s critical to keep the temperature above freezing when working in cold weather. To create the ideal environment for the plaster to cure properly, this frequently entails using heaters or insulating the work area.

Selecting the appropriate plaster type is an additional crucial consideration. Winter-specific plasters are designed to set more quickly in lower temperatures, so the weather won’t affect the work. Furthermore, one way to lessen the risks related to low temperatures is to use additives that hasten the setting time.

Plastering in the winter requires careful planning and preparation. Before applying plaster, make sure that all surfaces are free of moisture and frost as these can impair adhesion and cause long-term damage. Even in the worst winter conditions, high-quality results can be achieved with the appropriate strategy.

Features of plaster

Plastering is used to create surfaces that are both aesthetically pleasing and weather-resistant.

For this reason, various kinds of plaster are employed in building and maintenance:

1. Cement-sand. The easiest and cheapest option.
2. Lime – in composition is similar to the previous option, but with the addition of lime instead of a part of cement. Plastic, light, but fragile.
3. Gypsum – used only for interior finishing, because it does not withstand weather conditions: too hygroscopic, gets wet and falls off.
4. Acrylic – on a polymer base of acrylic resins. Moisture-resistant, durable, adheres to any base.
5. Silicate – based on potassium glass. Has increased vapor permeability.
6. Silicone – based on silicon (silicone) resins. Highest quality – but also the highest price.

Because of the various uses, when plastering, it’s important to consider not just the air temperature but also:

• humidity indoors and outdoors;
• drying conditions according to the coating application technology;
• composition of the solution;
• application method (machine, manual).

It should be kept in mind that finishing in the winter is useless for slopes and other areas that are frequently exposed to the cold. Plaster that is sufficiently reliable cannot be applied there at this time. Either process them first, or wait until the temperature starts to rise.

At what temperature can you plaster walls?

Let’s now determine the ideal temperature for plastering both the interior and exterior of the structure.

On the street

Official building codes should be followed when determining the appropriate temperature to plaster a house’s facade.

They make the following requirements clear:

• Air heating should not drop below 5 degrees (preferably not below +8). The atmosphere cannot cool below this value around the clock while the coating dries (for classic cement plaster – at least 2 weeks).
• If the air is already cooled below this value, special chemical compounds should be used to ensure setting in the cold.
• The humidity of the surface of the object should not exceed 8%. That is why the formed ice can only be scraped off and melted with a building hair dryer or heat gun, and not defrosted with hot water: it will moisten the wall, making the coating unstable. As a result, there is a risk that with the first thaw the coating will come off in a single layer.
• When using machine application, bunkers and mortar pipelines must be thermally insulated. They should not be overcooled, and the mixtures should not be cooled below 8 degrees.

The following substances are added:

1. Chlorine water. This is a solution of bleach (bleaching powder), infused for about an hour and a half. Based on this substance, a composition is prepared for cement plasters, usually used as a base. Due to the release of gaseous chlorine and chemical aggressiveness, all work with plaster based on chlorine water can only be carried out in protective clothing and with a respirator.
2. Potassium carbonate solution (aka potash, aka potassium carbonate). This composition is used to dilute cement, cement-clay and cement-lime plasters. The amount of additive in the solution is determined based on the average daily air temperature: the colder – the more carbonate, up to 2% of the total amount of the substance. Working with potash solution is complicated by the fact that the composition based on it can only be used for an hour. As with the use of bleach, working with carbonate plaster is only permitted in special clothing: the risk of poisoning is too great.
3. Ammonia water (ammonia hydrate, when weakly diluted it is called ammonia). This component is prepared in a factory and is usually obtained as a by-product of coal coking. It is used in chemical production as a nitrogen fertilizer for plants (with appropriate dilution) – and in construction. When preparing plaster, ammonia hydrate is carefully stirred to the desired composition in cold water (not warmer than +5 degrees, otherwise the release of hydrogen nitride may begin too early). Cement and lime-cement mixtures are diluted with ammonia hydrate. It is strictly forbidden to use this chemical with gypsum. The advantage of this additive: mixtures can harden even at temperatures down to -30 degrees. The main disadvantage is ammonia vapor, which has an extremely bad effect on the skin and mucous membranes. Therefore, ammonia hydrate compounds should only be used for facade work or in well-ventilated interior spaces.

Sodium and calcium chlorides can be added in addition to the additives mentioned above, but be careful—salting out can occur when using them to defrost plasters. Furthermore, when the air humidity is higher than 60%, neither they nor potash can be used.

Synthetic winter additives have also been introduced to the construction products market in recent years. They can be used in -50 degree frosts and are robust, strengthening quickly. Their main disadvantage, though, is that they weigh a lot—roughly 1.5 times more than regular plaster. Furthermore, they maintain the design’s richness.

The preparation of the wall needs special consideration. Before plastering, it should be completely cleared of snow and ice (but not with boiling water!), notch (to improve adhesion), and prime (if a primer-free composition is not used).

Inside the house

Can interior walls be plastered in the winter without the need for heating? Everything is dependent upon the temperature within the finishing room. Compositions based on gypsum work at temperatures as high as +8. Since the outer wall is typically the coldest point in the room, place a thermometer 50 centimeters above the floor to measure the air heating.

You must either heat the space or apply anti-freeze additives if the interior of the building is noticeably colder than usual. In this instance, frozen walls are plastered only after they have warmed up by at least half of their thickness, if heating is employed (heating, a building hair dryer, or other techniques). Additionally, you must keep an eye on the temperature at the ceiling. If it has warmed up by more than +30 degrees, you must stop heating right away to prevent the solution from losing moisture too quickly and cracking.

The details of the coatings need to be considered when determining whether plastering a room in the winter is feasible:

• Lime and gypsum plaster dries for at least two weeks. During this time, the temperature in the room should be maintained above +5 — +8 degrees. Also, during this time, the room should be ventilated at least twice a day to remove moisture.
• Cement mixtures dry faster – in 7-8 days. At the same time, they are not afraid of moisture, and the room does not need ventilation.
• Synthetic-based mixtures must have a composition that corresponds to winter application conditions.

The potential to use modifier additives affects the temperature at which the interior walls are plastered. These are the same as for plastering facade surfaces, but you also need to consider the object’s potential future heating needs in addition to the current one. For example, in areas where it is necessary to expect temperatures above +40 degrees in the summer or when using heating and heaters, calcium carbonate and nitrate, urea, and sodium nitrite cannot be added to the finishing mixture.

Specifics of work in the summer

In contrast, we point out that it is important to remember that finishing work must be done in an environment where overheating rather than overcooling is occurring.

Plaster is applied, dries, and holds well in hot weather, but the following considerations need to be made:

• Do not carry out finishing of the facade under direct sunlight if the temperature is above +30 degrees. Uneven and too rapid drying of the outer surface can lead to cracks and collapse of the layer.
• When plastering interior spaces, it is necessary to provide ventilation to reduce humidity.

In order to ensure a long-lasting finish, plastering walls in the winter requires extra consideration to humidity and temperature. Cracks and poor adhesion can result from the drying process being hampered by cold weather. Use antifreeze additives in the plaster mix and think about heating the work area to counteract this. Successful winter plastering requires careful surface preparation and continuous application condition monitoring.

Specifics of work at sub-zero temperatures

The only chemicals used in the preparation of winter facade plaster are those that guarantee the mixture will set in the cold. It is impractical to try to warm up the facade to the point where standard plaster mixtures set.

In the winter, plastering in a cold room may call for the use of special chemicals in addition to heating with heat guns or hair dryers. The ideal course of action is to apply the mixture to the wall plane at a temperature of +18–20 degrees, then keep the air temperature at +5-8 degrees until the finish hardens and reaches its maximum strength.

When applying by machine, set up a heated, insulated special unit with a consistent supply of warm mixture or a solution as it is being prepared.

Winter plastering can be difficult because of the low temperatures, but it’s not impossible. Even in cold weather, you can get good results by using the right materials and specific techniques.

First, use winter-grade plaster mixtures that are made to endure cold weather. These mixtures have ingredients that, in spite of the cold, aid in the proper setting of the plaster. Before using, always store your materials in a warm location to make sure they work properly when applied.

Secondly, think about preheating the workspace. In order to keep the temperature appropriate for the plaster to set properly, temporary heaters can be used. Furthermore, you can keep recently plastered walls from freezing by covering them with plastic sheets or insulating blankets.

Finally, keep an eye on the drying process. Be patient and give the plaster more time to cure as winter conditions can shorten drying times. To avoid cracks and other damage, keep the plaster out of the freezing weather while it dries.

Plastering walls in the winter can be done successfully by following these precautions, which will guarantee a smooth, long-lasting finish.

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