Constructing a bathroom using enlarged clay concrete blocks is a useful and satisfying do-it-yourself undertaking. Because these blocks are strong, lightweight, and offer adequate insulation, they are an excellent option. If you’re thinking about doing this kind of construction, you’re up for a challenging but rewarding task. This tutorial will lead you through every stage, from setting up the location to adding the finishing touches.
We’ll start with the fundamentals: being aware of the supplies and equipment you’ll need. Expanded clay concrete blocks are ideal for do-it-yourself construction because of their easy handling and working characteristics. Everything from building the blocks to laying the foundation to adding the final touches to your bathhouse will be covered by us.
Regardless of your level of experience, this guide is meant to be simple and easy to understand. To make sure you know exactly what to do at each step and to ensure the smoothest possible process, each step is broken down. Let’s get started on building your brand-new bathhouse, a project that will improve your home and provide you with a place to unwind.
- Pros and cons of the material
- How to choose blocks
- Build it yourself
- Planning
- Foundation
- Laying blocks
- Roof installation
- Installation of windows and doors
- Finishing the inside of the bathhouse and connecting the steam room to utilities
- External finishing
- Stove device
- Video on the topic
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Pros and cons of the material
Expanded clay concrete blocks are significantly less expensive than natural wood, but they still have comparable performance qualities. The primary benefit is that you can construct buildings out of expanded clay blocks on your own, saving money on labor costs, specialized vehicles, or tools.
The primary benefits of the content are:
- Significant reduction in work time due to the large size of full-size blocks, the formation of perfectly flat walls
- Good level of thermal insulation – 2-3 times higher than that of brickwork
- Low weight – one person can independently lift a part measuring 40X35X24 centimeters, for example
- Wall laying can be carried out in a continuous cycle – the entire structure does not need to stand for a certain time before laying the next rows or installing the roof, finishing
- The ability to use a regular mortar of cement and sand in construction
- Significant financial savings – for example, if you are building a 5 by 5 meter bathhouse, all the work will cost 30-50% less than the implementation of similar projects made of wood
- The foundation for the building is quite cheap and simple – a strip foundation with a shallow depth will be enough
- Long service life
- Good fire resistance indicators, which makes the building safe
- Environmentally friendly – does not contain chemicals or toxic substances, which is very important for this type of construction
The drawbacks of block constructions:
- You cannot build heavy structures – maximum 2 floors
- The material is fragile, crumbles from impacts, so it is worth buying a larger quantity initially
- It is necessary to do the cladding outside and inside, since the material is hygroscopic, absorbs moisture (which can freeze in the cold), and can only survive 25-30 freeze/thaw cycles. Insulation from the inside is necessary to protect from steam and moisture, outside – from temperature changes and precipitation
How to choose blocks
Care must be taken when selecting blocks. Selecting a trustworthy and sincere supplier who can deliver exceptionally high-quality material is the first prerequisite. You should consider appearance when attempting to determine on your own which expanded clay concrete blocks are most appropriate for putting the idea into practice for a bathhouse.
The material shouldn’t break or crumble when struck, and there shouldn’t be any chips on the blocks. Additionally, color can reveal a lot about a material: a dark gray hue denotes a higher cement content.
Build it yourself
It is possible to build a bathhouse with your own hands out of expanded clay concrete blocks. The most important things are to plan everything, select premium materials, complete each step of the project sequentially, and don’t worry about extra expenses for exterior and interior decoration because they will be completely reimbursed during use.
You will need the blocks themselves, cement, crushed stone, sand, and water to complete the project. The following are essential tools to have on hand: trowels, anchors, pegs, buckets, shovels, and tape measures. Bitumen mastic, mineral wool, thermal insulation material, roofing felt, tiles, facing material (wooden panels, lining, ceramic tiles, etc.), and reinforcement mesh are examples of auxiliary materials.
Principal building phases:
Planning
This is the first step in construction. You need to think over the model of the room itself, choose places for showers, steam rooms, etc.., Calculate the dimensions, places for window and door openings, calculate the quantity and volume of materials, paying special attention to heat and moisture insulation. The optimal size of the bathhouse is 9 square meters, where 50% is occupied by a leisure room, 25% by a steam room and about 25% is allocated for a room for washing the body.
However, experts suggest picking a two-story building if at all possible, with a leisure room and more rooms on the second floor and a sizable steam room and bathroom on the first. Pitch roof bathhouses are easier to construct than gable roof bathhouses, but one drawback is that you can’t organize a full-fledged attic.
Everything is marked, the area is leveled, the trash is taken out, beacons are positioned between the corner blocks, and a rope is pulled.
Foundation
Selecting a strip foundation is the best option. The characteristics of the site’s soil, the depth at which the soil freezes, and placing the foundation at least 25 to 30 centimeters below the indicator are important considerations when constructing a bathhouse out of expanded clay concrete blocks. Consider the kind of soil and the groundwater table as well. A strip support structure is the best choice because of its adaptability.
On a columnar foundation, a small building can be constructed using randbalki; however, this method is not appropriate for heaving soils. A screw foundation is a better option for challenging soils; it works well in wetlands and on hills, but it is not appropriate for rocky soil.
The foundation-building process involves excavating a trench approximately 50 centimeters deep on the designated area, covering it with a layer of crushed stone and sand, followed by three to four rows of expanded clay blocks, mastic, and two layers of roofing felt.
Laying blocks
Is completed apart from the foundation. The walls are arranged in the shape of a half-block using the proper dressing technique after a base consisting of two layers of roofing felt has been laid. To create a plastic dense solution, sand and cement are combined in a 3:1 ratio, and water is added in a volume of 0.7 parts. Ready-made glue is available as a dry mixture for purchase. It is prepared in accordance with the guidelines and applied to building projects.
A 20 millimeter-thick solution is applied to the blocks. Walls within the buildings (partitions) can be built using the same method or with thinner-thinned blocks. The slabs can only be adjusted using a rubber hammer; other tools may cause them to crack or shatter into pieces when struck forcefully. Using a grinder to saw is preferable.
Block elements must be reinforced every 3–4 rows. Additionally, the first row, the lower seams of window openings, and the supporting surfaces of window and door lintels are strengthened further to ensure maximum dependability and stability. Support using 8 mm-diameter rods inserted into longitudinal grooves at the center of the mesh or block reinforcement frames.
Bathrooms typically include a full second floor or an attic in addition to the lower level. A ceiling is constructed between them; the most common type is a wooden interfloor ceiling because it is inexpensive, lightweight, and simple to construct. Use roofing felt over dry, coniferous wood that has been treated with antiseptics. Waterproofing is also done above rooms with high relative humidity.
Roof installation
Composed of roofing felt, slate, or corrugated sheeting, and it always includes an insulating layer. Both single- and double-pitched roofs are possible. Anchor bolts are used to secure the support beams during construction, after which the roof is sewn up and roofing materials are installed. Heat protection mats must have a vapor barrier membrane (foil film works well for this).
- Installation of the Mauerlat, fastening of the rafter system
- Laying the material for waterproofing
- Stuffing the lathing
- And the final stage is the installation of the finishing coating
Installation of windows and doors
Blocks are inserted into the openings as part of the work being done. To avoid wasting time during construction, it is best to order windows and doors in advance based on the intended dimensions. Bricks with a specific shape or regular bricks can be used to create lintels above the apertures. However, it is simpler to use ready-made, standard lintels that can be installed on both interior and exterior walls.
The wall’s thickness and purpose are taken into consideration when determining the number of lintels. The minimum depth of their embedding is 125 millimeters, although it varies depending on the width of the opening. The wall is laid out after lintels are first placed over the opening and a portion of the material is removed from the blocks in accordance with the size and shape of the lintel. A 1-2 centimeter layer of the lintel’s smaller side is laid out on the cement mortar. Here, a heat-insulating layer between 80 and 120 millimeters thick is applied. Knitting wire must be used to secure the jumpers once they have all been installed.
Finishing the inside of the bathhouse and connecting the steam room to utilities
Typically, clapboard is used to complete the task. Installing the clapboard requires first figuring out how much is needed.
- Installation of the lathing under the clapboard with a minimum thickness of 5 centimeters
- Laying a material that will retain heat, but is fire resistant
- Laying foil on the insulation
- Laying the slats horizontally for an air gap between the foil and the finishing material
- Fastening the finishing material
After that, connect the utilities while adhering to certain guidelines. Building a bathhouse out of expanded clay concrete blocks by hand is not enough; it also needs to be safe. Subterranean armored cable provides the electricity; a metal pipe adjacent to the switch serves as the input. The electrical cable is connected to a 16A or 25A general circuit breaker, then to the RCD, then to the lighting switches and water heater, and from each of these, wires to each lamp.
Double-insulated copper wire with an adequate cross-section is used for the installation. It is recommended to install closed wiring outside the building and to completely avoid having any open wiring in the steam room.
External finishing
In addition to improving the building’s aesthetics, external finishing provides insulation and protection. This can include clinker panels, decorative plaster, siding, plastic panels, and curtain walls or facing bricks.
Plastering is the easiest and least expensive option. In order to get the solution ready, mix 1:4 cement to sand. One layer of plaster is applied, rubbed down, and then another layer is applied and rubbed down again a day later. Typically, the plaster is painted with facade-specific paints on top.
Insulating any decoration is a must, and the best ways to do this are with mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, or specialized insulating membranes.
Stove device
When designing a stove, considerations such as thermal power, controllability, steam compartment size, layer thickness, insulation properties, and so forth are taken into account. Electric and gas heaters are simpler to control than wood heaters, which are more difficult. When selecting a stove, one crucial factor to consider is how long it can maintain the room’s temperature without requiring the addition of more fuel.
Techniques to control the temperature:
- Removing heat to the outside
- Containing air access
- Adjusting the volume of fuel supplied inside
Building a stone stove yourself carries significant risks; only experienced stove builders should be trusted with these projects. These stoves are also hard to light and take a long time to warm up. Installing the firebox in the wall with its length extended is preferable. An independent electric steam generator is installed in order to replicate an authentic Russian stove.
A well-built, high-quality stove should be economical, remove exhaust gases from the room, and heat the air beneath the ceiling to +80 C. Heaters can be set to operate either closed or open, with the latter being the recommended setting for frequent steaming.
Step | Action |
1 | Plan your bathhouse layout and design. |
2 | Gather materials: expanded clay concrete blocks, mortar, etc. |
3 | Prepare the foundation and ensure it"s level. |
4 | Start laying the first row of blocks and use mortar to secure them. |
5 | Continue building up the walls, checking for levelness regularly. |
6 | Install windows and doors as you progress. |
7 | Finish the structure with a roof and ensure proper insulation. |
8 | Complete any interior work and add finishing touches. |
Constructing a bathroom using enlarged clay concrete blocks is a useful and satisfying do-it-yourself undertaking. These comprehensive instructions will help you build a strong and useful structure that will last for many years. Though meticulous planning, preparation, and execution are required, the process is worthwhile in the end.
Having a strong foundation from the beginning and systematically completing each step will guarantee the success of your project. Every stage is important, from laying the blocks to assembling the base to completing the details. To guarantee a solid, dependable build and steer clear of typical pitfalls, pay close attention to each stage.
When your bathhouse is finished, you’ll be happy that you built it yourself. It will serve as a useful addition to your property and a demonstration of your abilities and commitment. Your expanded clay concrete bathhouse will offer comfort and utility for many years to come with proper care and maintenance.
When done correctly, building a bathhouse out of expanded clay concrete blocks is a useful and satisfying do-it-yourself project. We’ll simplify the process into simple steps in this step-by-step guide, which covers everything from site preparation and planning to wall construction and finishing touches. You’ll discover the methods and advice you need, regardless of experience level, to finish your bathhouse and take pleasure in a tranquil area in your own backyard.