DIY fence post holes

Digging the holes for the fence posts is one of the most important steps if you’re doing the fencing project by yourself. Although it may seem straightforward, doing it correctly can mean the difference between a fence that is stable and long-lasting and one that sags and wobbles. It will put you in a successful position and save you time and aggravation if you know the fundamentals of digging and preparing these holes.

Planning is essential when it comes to DIY fence post holes. A well-defined plan and appropriate tools are essential. You should decide which technique is best for digging and placing your posts based on the type of soil you have and their size. Don’t worry, there are simple methods that can assist you in finishing the task quickly, regardless of whether you’re working with rocky ground, sand, or clay.

We’ll lead you through each step of the procedure in this guide. You’ll discover how to guarantee that your fence posts are securely fastened and oriented, from selecting the ideal hole size to preparing the ideal concrete. Without hiring a contractor, you can accomplish a polished appearance with these suggestions. Let’s get started and finish your do-it-yourself fence project!

Hole parameters

Prior to beginning work, the master must do the following calculations and ascertain:

Number of posts

It is advised to first determine the section’s width in order to avoid making a mistake at this point. This parameter’s value should be between 2.5 and 3 meters, which is a multiple of the fence’s future side length. Larger sections will result in an insufficiently strong fence, while smaller ones will cause an unreasonable increase in work complexity and expense. Remember that the posts are found more frequently on higher fences.

• if the fence is to have the shape of a regular rectangle with sides of 50×25 m, and its height does not exceed 2 m, then it is advisable to make sections 2.5 m wide, then a total of 60 supports are needed (4 corner + 19 on each of the long sides + 9 on each of the short sides);
• if one of the sections is allocated for the gate, and the wicket is part of the leaf, then no additional supports are required. If the wicket is separate (the most common option), then one more support is needed for it, and there will be 61 posts in total.

Diameter of the hole for the fence

The only times it isn’t made wider than the support are when the post is driven into the ground. Typically, the hole’s measurements are two to three times larger than the post’s.

It will be challenging to fix the support precisely perpendicular for subsequent pouring with a wider hole, and the skew will undoubtedly become noticeable eventually. Also, an excessive amount of concrete mix will be required. A hole that is too small will make it impossible to do quality concreting.

Depth of the hole

The dimensions and weight of the fence itself, as well as the site’s soil characteristics, determine this parameter’s value.

Consider:

• soil freezing depth: the bottom of the hole should be 10 cm deeper than this mark;
• groundwater level: the hole must be dug below this value;
• climatic features, wind loads, possible weight of snow cover;

weight and height of the fence

The posts for light fences must be buried a third of the way down (i.e., if the fence is two meters high, the post needs to be buried one meter down). An additional 20 to 30 centimeters must be added for heavy stone and brick fences. It is also important to remember that every well needs to have a crushed stone cushion 10 cm thick at the bottom.

Tools used

When making holes, you need a tool that can guarantee the hole’s verticality because even the smallest deviation can cause the section to skew. Furthermore, it is imperative to uphold the targeted hole diameter and exercise caution in order to maximize both financial and labor expenses.

Ordinary shovel

One benefit is that the tool is inexpensive. There are numerous other drawbacks, such as the inability to use a shovel to dig a narrow hole and the requirement of verticality. It is important to consider the work’s high labor intensity. Due to these factors, a shovel is only used in situations where the frame is born beneath a large square support (such as beneath a concrete pole that will be created using monolithic casting).

Motoburg

In a matter of minutes, you can drill a hole with the appropriate diameter and precise geometry using this gasoline or electricity-powered device. The guidelines for operating a motorcycle are very straightforward: to start, a half-bayonet-deep hole must be dug in order to remove the turf layer and mark the drilling location.

After that, the drill is driven when the engine starts. It must remain firmly vertical, pressing into the ground. Using a screw, the dirt is raised and gathered around the opening.

There could be challenges when drilling on rocky terrain. Working at low speeds, attempting to hook and lift large stones, taking the drill out of the hole more frequently, and cleaning it are all necessary to prevent damage to the tool.

A motor drill’s one and only drawback is its exorbitant price; purchasing a tool with five digits on the price tag is hardly a wise investment when building a single fence.

Garden drill

Either an auger or a disc. A disc tool is a basic instrument that consists of a T-shaped handle, an extension rod, and the drill itself, which is a curved disk as depicted in the figure. The design of an auger drill is more intricate.

A garden drill is the most widely used tool for this kind of work because of its inexpensive, light weight, straightforward design, and capacity to drill holes up to two meters deep that are both the necessary diameter and geometrically correct. For this reason, we will go into more detail about it.

Rules for working with garden drill

Regretfully, the builder who chose to utilize this tool for the first time can run into problems at work, like the BU refusing to carry out his direct responsibilities.

There could be a number of causes behind this:

• Too dense soil. Making it is softer to make ordinary water. It is recommended by drilling a hole to a small depth, pour a bucket of water into it and wait a bit while it is absorbed into the soil – it will become much easier to work. You can also try to soften the soil with scrap strokes.
• Inexperience of the master. When working, the drill should be kept strictly vertically, removed by completing 2-3 turns to remove the soil chosen and, if necessary, cleanse the cutting edge. Rotating the handle, you should not be excessively pressed on it, trying to accelerate the drilling.
• Insufficient sharpening of the drill. Sometimes factory products are sold without sharpening, and such a tool, of course, is not able to cut a layer of earth. Sharpen it yourself, using a grinder or a file. Note that the chamfer is removed from the top.
• Incorrect shape of the drill. This drawback is inherent in homemade disk tools, in which the drill is two semicircles welded to the extension at an angle to each other. Be sure to check its geometry: the angle between the semicircles is 30-40 degrees.

Lastly, there are instances when a master overestimates his physical prowess. For example, a drill with a diameter of 10 to 30 cm can be purchased from hardware stores; however, the larger this parameter, the more effort it will take to rotate the handle.

Furthermore, working in extremely dense clay soils will be even more challenging. Because of this, knowledgeable builders suggest utilizing a garden drill only on light, sandy soils and making as few holes as possible. Renting a motor drill is preferable in any other case.

One more piece of advice: it’s best to go with a disc drill model or auger drill that has an auger situated below the cutting planes. It will facilitate and ease the process of removing the chosen soil from the drilling zone.

How to fix the pole

Prior to installation, the subterranean portion of the support must be sealed against moisture using paint or a blowtorch for wooden poles and resin for metal ones. After that, the prepared support is firmly fixed with spacers and positioned strictly vertically in the hole’s center on a cushion made of crushed stone or sand.

There are two methods for concreting the support:

1. The traditional, “wet” method involves filling the space around the pole with a concrete mixture with its subsequent vibration.
   The method is used on sandy soils that are unable to accumulate a large amount of water.
2. If the soil on your site is clayey, absorbing moisture like a sponge, the force of frost heaving will push the pole out along with the concrete sleeve. In this case, rubble is used ("dry" concreting): that is, the space around the post is simply filled with crushed stone in layers. Each layer is carefully compacted.

Because individual crushed stone particles are still movable with respect to the support and one another, they merely move as the surrounding soil expands, keeping the post stationary. Additionally, the post’s moisture is removed by the crushed stone layer, which serves as drainage.

The method’s drawback is that, despite careful compaction, the crushed stone eventually diminishes and the post becomes loose. Consequently, it becomes necessary to add crushed stone after a few months, and until that time, additional foundation arrangement is not feasible.

It is possible to install posts without concreting when building a lightweight fence on soft soil that is not prone to heaving by driving them into the ground. In this scenario, a small hole is made along the diameter of the support, the post is installed in it, and it is driven in with a sledgehammer. The technique calls for a lot of experience and physical strength.

Useful tips

Drill multiple holes at once if you plan to use water to soften the soil to make drilling easier; this will help to minimize work downtime. To avoid hurting your back, avoid yanking the garden drill out of the hole. It is best to swing it just a little bit so you can remove the tool without straining.

Not only should the auger’s end sections be sharpened, but the round plate edges as well. Although they don’t directly assist in drilling, they will speed up the process by severing plant roots.

Finally, if this is your first time working on the project, try your hand at a hole for a post that is situated in the least obvious spot; that way, no one will see your errors. It is only after you have accumulated experience that you can begin drilling the remaining holes and complete the task flawlessly.

A satisfying do-it-yourself project is constructing a fence, and drilling the proper fence post holes is an essential first step. Making the effort to carefully dig and set the holes will guarantee that your fence remains sturdy and attractive for many years to come, whether you’re replacing old posts or building a new fence. Recall that the secret is to use the proper concrete mix and dig a hole deep enough to firmly anchor the posts.

Even though it might appear like a simple task, careful preparation and execution can have a significant impact. Carefully measure and take into account variables that may affect how well the concrete sets, such as soil type and weather. One way to prevent common mistakes and future headaches is to use a post level and check alignment as you go.

Putting in the time and effort to complete the task correctly will ultimately pay off. You can create a sturdy and long-lasting fence that improves the appearance of your home and increases its value with the right tools and a little perseverance. Cheers to your fencing!

For a strong and long-lasting fence, it is essential to dig and set fence post holes correctly when starting a do-it-yourself project. This article will walk you through all the necessary steps to make sturdy and dependable fence post holes, from selecting the appropriate equipment and supplies to getting the hang of excavating and setting concrete. These easy-to-follow guidelines will guarantee that your fence remains sturdy and attractive for many years to come.

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