DIY aerated concrete bathhouse: pros and cons, step-by-step construction plan from foundation to roof

Constructing an aerated concrete bathhouse on your own can be a fulfilling do-it-yourself project with special benefits and difficulties. Because of its insulating qualities and lightweight nature, aerated concrete is a great material to use when building small structures like bath houses. This material gives the building durability and fire resistance in addition to assisting in the maintenance of comfortable interior temperatures. It’s critical to consider the advantages and disadvantages of the construction process before moving forward to make sure it meets your needs.

The lightweight nature of aerated concrete makes handling easier and lowers the overall structural load, which is one of its main advantages. This can be especially useful for do-it-yourself projects, as it facilitates transportation and movement while the project is being built. Furthermore, whether aerated concrete is utilized in a hot or cold climate, its thermal insulation qualities contribute to the creation of a comfortable atmosphere inside the bathhouse.

Aerated concrete does have certain drawbacks, though. While it provides good insulation, especially in larger or multi-story constructions, its load-bearing capacity may be lower than that of traditional concrete, necessitating careful planning and reinforcement for structural integrity. To further complicate the do-it-yourself project, precise cutting and shaping of aerated concrete blocks may require specialized tools.

A clear, detailed plan is essential before starting any construction. In order to support the entire structure, the foundation needs to be level and strong. You also need to make sure that proper drainage is in place and take into account any local building codes or regulations. When laying blocks made of aerated concrete, it’s important to use an adhesive mortar that’s designed for lightweight materials to ensure that every layer is level and firmly adhered to.

Ascending the ladder necessitates paying close attention to detail, particularly when building walls and installing windows or doors. It is possible to cut aerated concrete blocks to fit these openings, but accuracy is necessary to preserve the strength and insulating qualities of the structure. In order to avoid mold or decay, ventilation and moisture control are also important factors to take into account, especially in the humid environment of a bathhouse.

Lastly, finishing the roof requires selecting materials that both enhance the lightweight properties of aerated concrete and offer sufficient weather protection. Whether choosing a contemporary flat design or a traditional pitched roof, making sure the bathhouse is properly insulated and sealed will increase its lifespan and energy efficiency.

In summary, creating a do-it-yourself aerated concrete bathhouse has many advantages, including insulation and ease of construction, but it also has drawbacks that must be carefully considered and detailed in order to be overcome. You can create a space that improves your property and offers long-lasting enjoyment with the appropriate strategy and a well-executed plan.

Topic: DIY aerated concrete bathhouse	Pros and cons
Step-by-step construction plan	From foundation to roof

Aerated concrete blocks: dimensions and characteristics

Rectangular in shape, foam concrete has a porous interior structure. The cement mortar is made foamy and full of bubbles by adding a vulcanizer, which has the ability to do this. With a low specific gravity, the material is strong enough after hardening. You must approach the material selection skillfully if you want to construct a bathhouse out of aerated concrete blocks.

1. Density. Depending on the brand, it varies between 350-750 kg / m³. Based on this indicator, the strength and bearing capacity of the material are determined.
2. Shape. For the construction of walls, monolithic rectangular products are used. Window and door openings are decorated with U-shaped lintels with subsequent reinforcement.
3. Dimensions. The length of the stones is 500-625 mm, the height is 200-500 mm, the thickness is 200-400 mm.

The thickness of external walls can vary from 20 to 60 cm, depending on the climate. In Moscow, the most common projects for bathhouses are those that have buildings with walls that are between thirty and forty centimeters thick. Even in the most severe winters, this is sufficient for good thermal insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Know the benefits and drawbacks of using porous blocks before choosing to construct a sauna out of them.

1. Light weight with large sizes. It is easy to work with stones; high labor productivity is achieved with minimal physical effort. There is no need to build a heavy and expensive foundation.
2. Low thermal conductivity. In this indicator, gas silicate profiles are not inferior to solid wood.
3. Hardness and strength. Load-bearing walls are guaranteed to withstand external loads and the weight of the reinforced concrete floor slab.
4. Ecological cleanliness. There are no harmful emissions into the environment, including when heated.
5. Fire safety. The material is not flammable; the most powerful stoves can be placed close to it without a protective casing.
6. Biological inertia. The porous composition does not grow fungus and mold, insects and rodents avoid it.
7. Constancy of shape. The blocks retain their dimensions at high and low temperatures and have virtually no shrinkage.

The advantages and disadvantages of using aerated concrete for a bathhouse design should be thoroughly and impartially considered.

1. High moisture absorption. Damp walls are extremely difficult to dry, and this affects the thermal insulation characteristics.
2. Requires high-quality waterproofing from below, inside and outside. The use of sealants leads to loss of vapor permeability; high-quality forced ventilation is required.
3. Expensive interior and exterior decoration of the building is required, since the appearance of the walls is not presentable.

Since this material has only recently been used in construction and hasn’t been subjected to long-term testing, it is impossible to estimate the sauna’s service life.

We build with our own hands

Now that we have an answer to the question of whether bathhouses made of aerated concrete can be constructed, we should move on to the construction process.

1. Design.
2. Calculation of the need for materials.
3. Purchase of everything necessary, preparation of tools.
4. Marking, digging a pit, arranging the foundation.
5. Waterproofing the base.
6. Laying walls
7. Installation of partitions.
8. Reinforcement of masonry.
9. Reinforcement under window openings.
10. Pouring the armored belt between floors
11. Installation of the interfloor overlap
12. Insulation from the inside
13. Finishing cladding.

Furthermore, it is imperative to anticipate the phases involved in the installation of communications.

Methods of laying blocks

A DIY aerated concrete bathhouse can be designed in a number of ways. The decision regarding whether to lay blocks flat or on the edge depends on the local climate where the work is being done.

It is best to arrange the stones vertically, resulting in surfaces that are 20 cm thick, in the country’s middle zone and southern regions. Since such a structure has the same insulating qualities as 100 cm of brick, additional insulation is not needed in this instance.

Laying on the wide side of the products is an additional solution. This enables you to create 40 cm and 60 cm wide single-layer walls. This method is applied in regions that require adequate thermal insulation due to their protracted, harsh winters.

Another technique is to build parallel walls and place vapor-permeable insulation in between. The surfaces are joined together using reinforcement, anchors, or ties. On top, a continuous strapping is created.

Waterproofing the base for laying the walls

The quality of this stage determines the load-bearing walls’ strength, durability, and thermal conductivity.

1. Cleaning the foundation surface from dust and dirt.
2. Applying a layer of mastic.
3. Laying 3 layers of roofing felt.

The roofing felt needs to be turned upward and glued to the first row of stones after they are laid. This will shield the material from precipitation, melting snow, and wind.

Technology and features of laying walls

Block laying guidelines must be followed for a do-it-yourself gas block bathhouse to be sturdy and attractive.

1. Start laying – from the corners, after preliminary measuring the evenness of the base.
2. Bandaging each row with an offset of half a stone.
3. Reinforcement of walls every 2 rows.
4. Using hollow lintels to make openings.

Goods have smooth edges. When laying, a unique polymer adhesive with low heat conductivity is employed. A 3 mm thick layer is applied.

First row

The way additional work is done, how much mortar is used, and the outcome are all directly impacted by the quality of the first row.

1. The highest angle of the base is determined.
2. Cement mortar is made. Its task is to bind the blocks and align them.
3. On the upper corner of the base, 2 stones are laid to form an angle. They are aligned vertically and horizontally.
4. The remaining corners are made.
5. A cord is pulled between them.
6. Laying is carried out in the direction from top to bottom.

If there are spaces between the stones, they are filled with pieces that have been sawn off and are sticky where they join.

Second and subsequent rows

To give the cement time to set, you can go back to work no sooner than two hours after the first row is arranged. Every time you lay, you should start from one of the corners and overlap the stones. The surfaces are prepared for glue application by using a wet brush to remove any dust and sanding them with a float. A plumb line and level are used to continuously check the walls’ verticality. Using a rubber mallet, the fragments’ position is adjusted.

Partitions

After the walls are fully constructed, the partitions are put in place. The floor plans are rough drafts. In order to position the partition blocks perpendicularly, cuts are made in the wall blocks every row. Half of the stone has been dressed. The solution has a limited lifespan, so they are pre-cut into blanks to avoid distractions when laying.

Partitions can be used to fence off the steam room, shower, changing room, and rest area, depending on the project’s specifics. It is advisable to construct a vestibule to even out the temperature difference between the sauna and the outside space in order to make the room comfortable.

Reinforcement of the masonry

Reinforcement for the raised wall composed of gas blocks is placed every two rows. Reinforcement of 10–16 mm is used for this. Using a grinder or other specialized tool, grooves are made for the placement of the metal. The grooves’ chosen cross-section shape is either triangular or rectangular.

In the latter scenario, considerably less labor will be needed because there are just two oblique cuts that connect in the middle of the walls. Radius bends at the corners are created by hand or with a pipe bender. The reinforcement is filled with cement mortar flush with the stone surface after being inserted into the grooves.

Reinforcement under window openings

Under window openings, reinforcement is done to fortify the area that will bear the weight of a large, double-glazed window. Initially, the window’s width is marked on the wall, and two grooves are cut into it that extend 20 to 30 centimeters beyond the frame on each side.

After dusting and cleaning the grooves, cement mortar is added, and steel pins are submerged. The surface is leveled and surplus material is removed.

Lintels over window and door openings

The weight of the blocks above is assumed by jumpers. These components are constructed as U-shaped profiles. The purpose of the interior cavity is to install a high-strength, low-flexibility reinforced concrete core.

1. The part is cut so that its edges rest on the wall 40 cm on each side.
2. The fragment is glued to the stones along the edges of the opening.
3. A T-shaped support is installed under the lintel, supporting it along its entire length.
4. A volumetric frame of square cross-section is made from reinforcement.
5. A metal part is placed in the cavity and rigidly fixed in it. For this, staples or self-tapping screws are used.
6. Solid blocks are glued to the sides of the lintel.
7. Concrete is mixed. The solution is poured into the groove and distributed evenly throughout the volume.
8. Air bubbles are removed using a steel rod.
9. Excess concrete is removed with a spatula, the surface is leveled.

Once the mixture has fully solidified, which should happen no sooner than 14 days, the support can be removed. You can keep lying for another three to four hours.

Pouring the reinforced belt between floors – methods

The walls’ surface is fortified with a reinforced concrete reinforced belt before the floor slab is installed.

1. Using U-shaped profiles. Technology similar to the installation of window lintels. The strength of such a perimeter is sufficient for a lightweight reinforced concrete slab.
2. Manufacturing a box from thin blocks 5 cm thick and 20 cm high. They are glued along the edges of the wall, after which reinforcement is placed between them, and cement mortar is poured.
3. Monolithic reinforced concrete. Formwork is used, into which concrete is poured. It is screwed to the wall or installed on pins driven into it.

It is necessary to reinforce the structure using 16 mm rods in order to attain the necessary strength.

Interfloor overlap

The interfloor overlap is constructed following the removal of the building’s first level. Solid wood beams, hollow concrete slabs, or columns made of reinforced concrete are used in its construction. Given the unique characteristics of the building, such as its high temperatures and fire risk, it is advised to use non-combustible materials with decorative finishing afterwards.

If wood is chosen, it needs to be treated with a hydrophobic, fire-retardant, and antiseptic mixture before being laid. Roof felt is used as a waterproofing layer before installation is completed.

Aerated concrete bathhouses are advantageous and challenging to build on your own. The lightweight and insulating qualities of aerated concrete offer a good compromise between strength and thermal efficiency. Careful planning and attention to detail are essential at every stage of the building process, from setting the foundation to completing the roof.

Because aerated concrete is lightweight, it is easy to handle, which is one of its main advantages. This can make the building process easier, particularly for people who don’t have a lot of building experience. Aerated concrete additionally provides good thermal insulation, which is beneficial for a bathhouse where temperature control is crucial.

But there are disadvantages to take into account. Compared to more conventional materials like wood or ordinary concrete blocks, aerated concrete may be more expensive. Because of its light weight, it might also need more structural support, particularly in locations that are vulnerable to earthquakes or severe snowfall. For the bathhouse to last, adequate reinforcement and support must be provided throughout the building process.

Following a step-by-step plan is crucial when building an aerated concrete bathhouse. Start with a sturdy base that can sustain the building and take the aerated concrete walls’ weight distribution into consideration. Keep an eye out for correctly aligned and reinforced joints and connections between blocks as you work your way upwards.

As the walls take shape, think about where to put windows and doors to get the most natural light and ventilation possible while preserving the aerated concrete’s insulating qualities. Lastly, select building materials and methods for the roof that align with the bathhouse’s overall thermal efficiency objectives.

In conclusion, for those who want to combine the advantages of contemporary building materials with the fulfillment of doing the construction themselves, a do-it-yourself aerated concrete bathhouse can be a rewarding project. Builders can create a long-lasting and energy-efficient structure that improves their property and serves as a comfortable retreat for years to come by carefully considering all the pros and cons, planning every step, and carrying out each step with care.

Aerated concrete bathhouses are advantageous and challenging to build on your own. Everything from laying the foundation to completing the roof is covered in detail in this article. You’ll learn about the advantages of aerated concrete, including its exceptional insulation qualities and lightweight design, which make it perfect for a bathhouse. However, because of its unique construction requirements, it also necessitates meticulous planning and attention to detail. You’ll obtain understanding of the practical aspects of each step by adhering to our detailed plan, which will guarantee your project’s success and satisfaction.

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