Detailed information and tips: how to make a concrete floor in a bathhouse?

Although installing a concrete floor in a restroom may seem difficult, it can actually be a simple and satisfying project with the correct advice and little work. A well-built concrete floor offers a strong, long-lasting base that is resistant to the heat and moisture that are common in a bathhouse.

A concrete floor’s resilience to wear and tear and capacity to withstand high foot traffic are two of its main advantages. Concrete, in contrast to other flooring materials, is not affected by water rot or warping. Because of this, it is the perfect option for bath houses, which frequently have high humidity levels.

This post will guide you through the entire process of installing a concrete floor in your bathroom, from base preparation to surface finishing. These pointers and methods will support you in achieving a polished and long-lasting outcome, whether you’re remodeling an existing space or starting from scratch.

Your bathhouse can be made into a beautiful and useful area with careful planning and attention to detail. Together, we can create a concrete floor that will last for many years.

Features of DIY installation

A concrete floor is a sturdy foundation that can withstand repeated wet exposure. Because natural materials are used in the process, it is environmentally friendly. Therefore, a mixture of sand, water, cement, and natural filler is used to prepare the working solution. The solution is frequently supplemented with plasticizers and polymer components to enhance the final material’s properties.

Mold and fungus are typically found in damp rooms with unstable temperatures. Microbes, insects, and rodents are not attracted to concrete as a material. And the concrete does not need to be dried after resting in such a bathhouse.

Because the floor arrangement material is heavy, a sturdy foundation will be needed. In 30 to 45 days, the screed dries completely. It will continue to shrink after the coating is installed for a while. The amount of liquid in the solution determines how much.

It is essential to choose the ingredients for the solution carefully before pouring a concrete floor in a bathroom. Next, as the project moves forward, careful attention to the technology involved in pouring the mixture is necessary. Traditionally, it is broken down into four steps: base preparation, composition laying, finishing, and joint sealing.

Pouring methods

You can pour the solution onto logs or the ground. It is believed to create a ventilated subterranean space in the second scenario. The master’s preferences and the work’s budget will determine the exact option.

On the ground

With this technology, the base is created first, and then the concrete floor. However, you must first remove a layer that is roughly 40–50 cm thick. On top is a cushion made of gravel and sand that is 60 cm tall overall.

Each layer is carefully tamped before the solution is poured. After finishing the preliminary work, they start laying the mixture, keeping the base’s slope in mind. One or two layers of screed are poured (rough and finishing). Due to the high thermal conductivity of concrete, waterproofing is installed between them as well as insulation.

On logs

If wooden logs are used, an area with ventilation is left beneath the bathhouse floor. As a result, the screed doesn’t need to have any more ventilation systems set up. Logs need to be cleaned with an antiseptic before handling.

A bar with a cross-section of 10–20 cm is typically utilized. After processing, the material is laid on top of the base in the shape of a grid once it has dried. The logs have boards fastened to them to create a rough floor. They typically accept material that is 2-4 cm thick. Waterproofing and heat are added on top. Subsequently, the layer is filled with a working solution and strengthened with steel mesh.

Arrangement in stages

The technology involves several stages.

Preparation

Nobody just pours concrete solution all over the planet, expecting a sturdy, attractive base to form in a few days. The preparatory work is very important, and if you don’t give it enough thought, the final layer won’t meet your standards.

You will require the following equipment for preliminary work:

• roulette;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• shovel;
• levels;
• Master OK;
• putty knife;
• rules;
• Remedies.

The following materials are used to lay the concrete screed itself: sand concrete mixture, guide angles, fasteners, waterproofing and thermal insulation agents, and deeply penetrating primer.

Alignment

The following is how the surface is ready:

1. Remove the top layer of earth, that is, soil with organic matter, to a depth of 40-50 cm.
2. The surface is leveled, a pit is made in the center where the water will drain.
3. A drainage pipe with a diameter of 10-20 cm is installed under a slope so that the liquid is removed by gravity.

Typically, a level is used to assess the leveling quality (laser or ordinary construction).

Seal

The surface is carefully compacted prior to concreting. Using a vibrating plate, a specialized tool, will expedite the process. If no equipment is available, construct a manual rammer out of a log or piece of wood.

Create cushions on top of the tamped soil by adding a layer of gravel 10 cm thick and a layer of sand 5–10 cm thick. Every one is gently compacted. Their purpose is to prevent rising moisture from damaging the "pie" by shielding the base from soil heaving.

Arrangement of a drainage system

A room with unstable humidity is called a bathhouse. It either rises sharply or returns to normal. For this reason, having a dependable system for draining liquid is crucial in a bathhouse. Preliminary estimation of the system’s functionality is preferable to actual construction. Usually, the water pipe is placed beneath the shelves so as not to obstruct rest.

Extra liquid will be disposed of in a pre-dug pit. The water is then transferred to the site water collector’s main one. This is a comprehensive article about the drainage device.

Rough layer

When constructing a concrete floor, this layer comes first and should not be thicker than 10 cm. Suggested range: 5-7 cm.

Sand, cement, gravel, and crushed stone are combined to create the working solution. Given the low load on the bathroom floor, the minimum concrete grade that should be used is M150–200. However, it is preferable to use M400 rather than save money so that the coating is unquestionably of the highest caliber.

The concrete remedy includes:

• part concrete;
• 2 parts river sand;
• 7 parts crushed stone and gravel (stones 5-10 mm in size).

The amount of natural filler is increased if grade M500 is used: sand is equal to 1.6 parts and gravel is 3.2 parts.

All of the solution’s ingredients are measured and then combined. Water is used in portions to be added during mixing. It is hard to pinpoint the precise amount; instead, consider the mixture’s consistency. The base will harden for a long time and cracks may appear if the volume is exceeded. The surface won’t be leveled if you add little. ought to be a composition that is thick, plastic, and uniformly moistened.

The gravel is covered with a polyethylene film, whose density must be at least 200 microns, prior to the rough screed being poured. Its job is to shield the gravel from the solution’s water content. If this isn’t done, capillary moisture will eventually gather in the screed and cause bridges to form. Consequently, strength will decline.

Laying the insulation is followed by pouring. Layers of the mixture are served quickly but carefully, taking care to ensure that the necessary slope is maintained and the surface is consistently level. Step away from the corner that faces the entrance, continuously. The pit is first concreted, meaning it is first filled with crushed stone and then with a five-centimeter-thick mixture of concrete.

Close the drainage pipe’s head to stop the solution from entering the "body" of the pipe. Additionally, 7 cm of filler should be added to the pit’s walls. This is accomplished by placing plywood or board formwork around the perimeter of the bottom after it has solidified.

To give the screed time to strengthen, the object is left for three to five days after pouring. However, doing nothing at all will not work; water must be sprayed on the floor to keep it moist all the time. Or just place a moist cloth down.

Wet floor screed is the name of the technology that is being described; it is applied manually. However, there is also a semi-dry one that uses a pneumatic pump, a unique apparatus. It is required for blending and bringing the mixture to the top. The working composition in this instance is more aqueous than liquid.

The productivity and caliber of the work are the benefits of technology. The solution will be fed straight to the site by equipment, negating the need for manual preparation and transportation.

How to insulate and make waterproofing?

If you don’t take extra precautions, the floor won’t last as long and won’t be comfortable enough. As a result, the coating is shielded from moisture inside the room and outside.

Roofing felt is typically used for waterproofing, and it is applied in two layers. The materials are arranged on the floor, overlapping one another.

The walls are bent in a 3–5 cm high manner. Bitumen mastic is used in areas where the roofing felt overlaps the wall. With a small offset, a second layer of material is placed on top of the first.

The pit is similarly shielded from moisture by two layers of roofing felt.

The next layer is thermal insulation, which ranges in thickness from 2 to 10 cm. Typically, 5-cm slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are selected as the material. The product has qualities of high mechanical strength, density, and resistance to moisture.

As the material suggests the existence of tongue-and-groove protrusions that make installation easier, it is not difficult to create a continuous layer of thermal insulation. The walls, which are level with the floor, are covered with slabs that are first placed in the pit. The floor itself is the last detail.

Polyurethane foam should be used to seal any spaces between the materials. Monolithic thermal insulation is ideal.

Finishing screed

Apply the finishing coating after the subfloor has dried and protective insulation has been placed on top of it. The subfloor’s materials and those for the working mixture are identical. Ten centimeters is the thickness now. Remember to account for the slope when working to guarantee that liquid drains away.

Reinforcement of concrete

In the event that the base area is small, reinforcement is not required. If not, a steel rod reinforcing mesh is placed in the center of the screed during construction. Enhancing the durability of the coating is imperative.

Errors and troubleshooting

The room will be ready for use in a few weeks if you follow the detailed instructions.

Concrete occasionally develops surface cracks as it dries, which is an indication that moisture is evaporating rapidly. Such cases can be repaired by enlarging the cracks and filling them with an equal volume mixture of sand and cement.

Generally, drafts or the concrete’s high temperature cause cracks to appear throughout the layer’s thickness. The coating will just crumble because it isn’t hard. One of two options is to either apply mortar right away or use a ready-made dry mixture in place of cement.

Use ceramic or porcelain tiles for additional finishing. However, they will find it uncomfortable to walk barefoot in the bathhouse due to the cold materials. For this reason, plank flooring—either permanent or movable—is frequently installed over the tiles.

Semi-dry screed

In this instance, the technology of work is the same; however, grouting is necessary at the finishing stage and is handled by a specialized grinding machine. One benefit is that the surface becomes flawlessly smooth right away, devoid of any variations or lumps. However, it is impossible to make a semi-dry screed without specialized tools.

Semi-dry concrete must be laid, leveled, and grouted by skilled artisans; otherwise, the outcome won’t live up to expectations.

However, the coating will be more frost- and waterproof-resistant if you make the "pie" yourself. Semi-dry screed technology is typically installed in conjunction with a "warm floor" system to create a level base that is prepared for the final coat.

This is a complete article about semi-dry screed.

How to do it right for a wooden steam room?

It is not practical to pour screed on a floor that is equipped with logs and a floor slab, meaning that the thickness of the slab is between 7 and 7.8 cm. Disassembling every wooden component and filling it onto the slab is simpler. Installing high logs atop brick pillars is an additional option. These are typically 30 to 40 cm high, so it is difficult to use a screed in place of them.

A space must be made between the wooden components and the monolithic surface in order to pour a concrete screed over them. In order to achieve this, the leveling layer is separated from the boards using polyethylene and the walls using damper tape.

This produces a "floating floor," which is unattached to any surface.

Useful video

Regarding making a screed in the video, in addition:

Step	Details and Tips
1. Preparation	Clear the area, remove any debris, and level the ground.
2. Insulation	Lay a layer of waterproofing material to prevent moisture from seeping through.
3. Formwork	Build a frame around the area to hold the concrete in place while it sets.
4. Reinforcement	Place a metal mesh or rebar inside the formwork for added strength.
5. Mixing Concrete	Mix concrete according to the instructions, ensuring it is not too watery.
6. Pouring Concrete	Pour the concrete into the formwork, spreading it evenly.
7. Smoothing	Use a trowel to smooth the surface and remove any air bubbles.
8. Curing	Cover the concrete with plastic sheeting to retain moisture and allow it to cure slowly for at least a week.
9. Finishing	After curing, remove the formwork and add any desired finishes, like tiles or non-slip paint.

A bathhouse’s concrete floor is a sensible, long-lasting option that can withstand the particular environmental conditions. You can guarantee a floor that is long-lasting and useful by taking the right procedures and using the right materials. To avoid moisture problems and heat loss, keep in mind that insulation and waterproofing should come first.

Establish a strong foundation by making sure the ground is level and well-prepared. Gravel can be added to aid in drainage, and a vapor barrier is necessary to prevent moisture from penetrating the concrete. Remember to add reinforcement to your floor to give it more strength and stability, like wire mesh or rebar.

To create a level and smooth surface, use efficiency when mixing and pouring the concrete. Finish the top layer with a trowel, and give the curing process enough time. During this stage, patience is essential to prevent cracks and guarantee a sturdy floor. For added safety, especially considering the damp conditions in a bathhouse, think about applying a non-slip finish.

Your concrete floor will remain in good condition with regular maintenance. Periodically sealing the surface can shield it from wear and water damage. Be vigilant for any fissures or chips, and promptly rectify them to avert additional degradation.

In conclusion, a concrete floor in your bathroom can offer a dependable and low-maintenance foundation for many years to come with careful planning and execution. To get the most out of this durable flooring option, give proper techniques and high-quality materials top priority.

In order to ensure longevity and comfort, creating a concrete floor in a bathroom requires careful planning and execution. You will be guided through all of the necessary steps in this article, from base preparation and concrete mixing to appropriate curing methods. We’ll also provide useful advice on how to improve moisture resistance and insulation, so your bathhouse floor will stay sturdy and useful for many years to come.

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