Whether for a porch, balcony, or stairway, concrete balusters can give any railing system a sense of style and toughness. Making and installing concrete balusters yourself can be a satisfying project if you’re looking to add a personalized touch to your indoor or outdoor area. Creating something yourself will give you a sense of accomplishment in addition to financial savings.
There are a few fundamental steps involved in creating concrete balusters, from selecting the appropriate materials to shaping and finishing the balusters. A simple idea can become a useful and fashionable addition to your home with a few basic tools and some perseverance. DIY enthusiasts can handle this process even if they lack substantial concrete work experience.
We’ll lead you through the essential procedures for creating and installing your own concrete balusters in this tutorial. Our instructions are simple and will guide you through every step of the process, from mixing the concrete to setting the molds to installing the final pieces and getting excellent results. These pointers will guarantee that your project goes smoothly and looks amazing, regardless of whether you’re building from scratch or improving an existing structure.
- Why make balusters yourself
- What are concrete balusters made of?
- To ensure strength
- In order to obtain a decorative appearance
- Molds
- Plaster casting
- Foam forms
- Polyurethane mold
- Fiberglass mold
- Making balusters
- Preparation of the solution
- Preparation of glass fiber concrete
- Preparing the molds
- Installing the reinforcement and embedded parts
- We form and compact the balusters
- Stripping
- Steaming
- Care of balusters during concrete hardening
- Video on the topic
- how to prepare a form for a baluster with your own hands
- DIY concrete balusters
- installation installation of balusters
- MAKE CONCRETE BALUSTERS OURSELVES
- Making balusters for a balustrade with your own hands
Why make balusters yourself
Of course, prefabricated balusters are available, but not everyone needs them.
- Products offered on the construction market may not be suitable in design, do not fit into the style of the staircase, interior or facade.
- Ready-made balusters may not fit the dimensions of the fence or staircase.
- You want the staircase to be original, exclusive, not like others.
- The price for custom manufacturing will most likely be high, or the deadlines for its completion may also not suit you.
- It is always nice to make something for your home with your own hands.
Concrete balusters are a gratifying project to make and install if you’re looking to give your outdoor area a chic and robust touch. From creating the balusters to safely installing them, we’ll walk you through every step of the process in this post, making it simple for anyone with a little do-it-yourself attitude to get results that look professional. Whether you’re remodeling your garden, balcony, or stairway, you’ll find useful advice and methods to finish the job correctly.
What are concrete balusters made of?
It appears that the question itself already contains the answer, coming from concrete. However, the reality is that there are multiple types and production technologies, each with unique qualities and attributes.
The following criteria must be taken into consideration when selecting the mixture’s technology and composition for the production of balusters:
- Balusters must have sufficient bending and compression strength to withstand the weight of the railings and people leaning on them.
- Products must have a beautiful appearance.
As a result, the following combinations are most frequently employed in their production.
To ensure strength
- Reinforced concrete. Reinforcement increases the bending strength of the structure, the concrete stone itself works well for compression. Moreover, both steel rods and wire, as well as fiberglass, are used for reinforcement.
- The manufacture of balusters from glass fiber concrete is increasingly practiced. In this type of material, reinforcement is provided by fiberglass fibers (fiber) located throughout the volume. Sometimes fibers from other materials (metal, polymers) are also used.
In order to obtain a decorative appearance
- The most common option for concrete balusters is the usual mixture, which can then be painted. However, it should be noted that a simple gray surface fits perfectly into individual architectural solutions.
- White cement and sand are used to make such products. If it is necessary to obtain a different color, pigment is added to the composition. This approach provides a stable color that does not require periodic restoration, as with conventional surface painting.
- Fillers from decorative natural stone are also added to the mixture, then the surface is polished. This technology for manufacturing concrete balusters makes it possible to imitate many rocks. Additionally, the introduction of polymers can be used (polymer concrete is obtained).
- Balusters are made using the “systrom” technology. It is a little similar to the previous techniques, and is most often used to imitate marble. Products are poured into molds with a smooth surface. Together with the introduction of polymers, with not completely mixed pigments, the appearance of the product is almost indistinguishable from the surface of polished marble.
Let’s now examine the steps involved in producing concrete balusters, from mold preparation to final product installation.
Molds
Buying pre-made molds to pour concrete balusters is the easiest option. However, as was already mentioned, we will make our own decisions if the option doesn’t work for us.
The most popular techniques for creating molds are:
- Gypsum casting.
- Foam casting.
- Polyurethane casting.
- Fiberglass molding.
On occasion, artisans may also employ a punch made from a steel sheet, but this calls for a high level of tinsmithing expertise. Furthermore, using this method to create a mold with significant changes in the cross-sectional area is challenging. Thus, we won’t give it any thought.
Now, for one more technique: 3D printing. Its printers are becoming more widely available. It’s true that models that can print a completed plastic form are still very expensive to buy as a home appliance.
However, some businesses now provide 3D printing services using their machinery. So maybe this will turn out to be the best choice soon.
Without any additional steps or materials, you just create a three-dimensional model of the form (many programs exist for this), and then print the completed form for concrete balusters from it.
Plaster casting
Among the easiest and least expensive choices. This is a commonly recommended option in how-to guides for creating forms yourself.
Yet, it has a number of drawbacks, which we outline below:
- Gypsum is a very fragile material. The mold can easily be destroyed during installation and especially when compacting the mixture, it must be handled very carefully. Sometimes, after making just a few balusters, you have to make a new mold.
- Gypsum is not waterproof. The mold must be covered with several layers of waterproof varnish or paint, then the coating must be renewed periodically. Also, before molding, abundant lubrication of the surfaces is necessary.
- In addition to the fact that the mold is fragile, it is also heavy – which, coupled with the obligatory careful attitude towards it, significantly reduces the molding speed.
Let’s now discuss the detailed process of creating the mold:
- First of all, we need a model – a part that will look exactly like the future baluster. In most cases, it is made of wood on a lathe. If a more complex relief is needed, then additionally resort to tools for decorative wood carving. But you can make a model from any material – mold it from clay, wax or even plasticine. If you want to copy (for example, for repairs), then a sample concrete baluster is quite suitable as a model.
- Then we prepare the formwork in which we will cast the mold. Any rectangular box will do, the dimensions of which in height and width are 10-15 centimeters larger than the model (they should be equal in length). We do not need a lid.
- We install our model in the box. We need it to be at an equal distance from its walls on all sides (the thickness of the mold wall). To do this, you can install any stops at its ends, up to a couple of screws that will fasten the model through the wall. In order for the mold to have a hole for pouring and installing reinforcement, the ends of the model must fit tightly to the walls.
- We mark on the walls of the box the level to which we will pour the first portion of plaster. It must coincide exactly with the axis of the model.
- Lubricate the walls of the box and the model with any lubricant, you can use a soap solution.
- Prepare a plaster solution and pour it to the mark.
- Immediately along the edges of the model, we also sink lubricated cylinders of any material with a diameter of 2 centimeters by a few centimeters. They will form recesses to fix the form from shifting in the assembled state.
- After the plaster has hardened, remove the cylinders.
- Lubricate the hardened surface of the plaster, including the recesses from the cylinders with lubricant. Do not remove the model, but clean it from particles of the poured mixture and re-lubricate.
- Fill the box with plaster to the top.
- After the second portion of plaster has hardened, you can remove the almost finished form. Immediately remove the upper part, then release and remove the model, and take out the lower part.
- Cover the surfaces of the form with several layers of moisture-resistant paint or varnish.
Our form is prepared, so you can use your hands to create concrete balusters.
Foam forms
Compared to gypsum, polystyrene foam is marginally better because it is easier to form and allows for product vibration without worrying about the mold breaking. However, it also has drawbacks.
- The shape of the layout is not always accurately conveyed.
- The surface of the mold also has to be coated with paint or varnish to protect it from moisture and smooth out minor irregularities.
- More complex mold manufacturing technology.
- Although polystyrene foam is not fragile, forms made from it have little strength and are also easy to damage when molding or demoulding the product.
We start by creating a foam mold:
Please be aware that not everything will go right the first time; some experience is required.
- Preparing the model. Unlike the first case, molding will take place at elevated temperatures, so wax or plasticine will not work.
- Then we need to purchase a semi-finished product – PVA polystyrene granules. It is difficult to do this in a regular hardware store, it is better to try to order online, fortunately, the price for this material is low.
- Then we proceed to the primary foaming of the granules. For this we need a steam bath (approximately the same as for cooking food with steam, but only slightly larger). You can adapt two containers of different sizes, we will boil water in the second one with a mesh bottom to carry out operations to make the mold.
- We pour a small amount of granules into the second container and set it on steam. The main thing is to guess the amount – the granules will foam and increase in volume by 20-40 times.
- After this, we dry them and let them lie for about a day.
- While our granules are lying down, we prepare (sorry for the tautology) a mold for making the mold. This is the same box as in the previous case, but metal and with a lid capable of withstanding slight pressure.
- Just like in the previous case, we fix our model in the mold. We lubricate both it and the walls of the box with any lubricant that does not lose its properties when heated.
- Fill the form with our aged granules and fix the lid.
- Place the mold again for several hours in a steam bath.
- Remove and leave to cool. Then remove the workpiece.
- Carefully cut the foam mold into two halves along the axis. The model will interfere with us, so special care is needed when performing this operation. It is best to use a heated blade for cutting.
- Then we need to arrange clamps for precise alignment of both halves. The easiest way is to drill holes and install pins made of any material on one of the halves.
- As in the case of plaster, cover all surfaces of the mold (including the outer one) with paint or varnish.
By the way, many try to simply pump in polyurethane foam instead of all this fuss with granules and a steam bath, but the result is not very good, the molds do not withstand even the manufacture of two or three balusters.
Polyurethane mold
Despite not requiring significantly more sophisticated manufacturing techniques, this form is stronger than the foam version. This material is used in the majority of the industrially manufactured forms that are available.
- We also prepare a baluster model that can withstand high temperatures.
- Next, we prepare a box in which we will make the form. You won’t have to heat it from the outside, so you can make do with a wooden structure. We just seal the joints with silicone so that the mixture doesn’t spill out. We choose smaller sizes. It’s enough to be 1-2 centimeters larger than the dimensions of the model. A polyurethane form doesn’t need a large wall thickness.
- We purchase the components of the mixture – these are: SKU-PFL-100 polymer and “Kuralon” granular hardener. The consumption of the components is 1 part hardener to 5 parts polymer.
- We place both components in metal containers and carefully heat them to about 110-120 degrees. You can’t use an open fire, as the granules near the walls can overheat to the point of melting and lose their properties. It is better to use a building hair dryer.
- When heating, carefully mix both components to remove air bubbles.
- While the components are heating, place the model in a box and lubricate all surfaces.
- Next, let the polymer cool to 60 degrees, leave the hardener heated. We heated it to a higher temperature only to remove air inclusions.
- Pour the polymer and hardener into one container and mix thoroughly.
- Carefully pour the finished mixture into the mold.
- After the polyurethane has cooled, remove the mold, and as in the previous case, cut it along the axis and install the clamps.
Pay heed. Because of the mixture’s toxicity, work should be done outside or beneath a canopy. To safeguard your health, wear a respirator, gloves, and glasses.
Fiberglass mold
The greatest choice, as demonstrated in the article’s video. Has outstanding strength and is simple to make. Fiberglass and epoxy resin with a hardener are required for the task.
The actual technology is comparable to papier-mâché made with paste and paper. I believe a lot of people have mastered it in schoolwork classes.
- As in all previous cases, we prepare the model.
- Then mix, according to the instructions on the package, epoxy resin and hardener. Do not prepare too much, the components react quickly.
- Cut the fiberglass tape into strips.
- Lubricate the model with any lubricant and begin to glue it with strips of tape. And alternate a row along and a row across, carefully pressing it in the places of recesses.
Suggestions. If the model is just a figure of rotation without any intricate relief, you can wind the tape crosswise at a 90-degree angle and soak each layer. In this instance, a thread can be used in place of the fiberglass.
- When we form a layer about three centimeters thick, then we can consider that our form is ready. But we still have to take care of how to securely fix its parts relative to each other during assembly. Therefore, in several places we thicken the layer almost to a centimeter by simple winding.
- When the resin hardens, we cut the form. Moreover, it will not work with a knife. We use a grinder with a cutting wheel.
- It remains to install the clamps. We drill holes in the thickening places for small-diameter metal pins and glue them in.
After creating the forms, we can start making the balusters right away.
Making balusters
Everything proceeds in the same manner as when producing any other specific concrete product. Let’s enumerate the phases.
Preparation of the solution
We must first get the solution ready. If balusters are to be made from regular heavy concrete, the procedure remains the same.
However, you still need to consider a few specifics:
- The size of the large filler should be slightly smaller than the size of the smallest details of the baluster relief — otherwise, irregularities may appear on the surface of the finished product.
- Be sure to use a plasticizer, it will increase the strength of the parts. In addition, with careful compaction, the molded baluster can be removed from the mold faster.
- As we said above, if you do not want to paint the products later, we take white cement and colorless sand for the solution. Also, we add a pigment of the desired color to the solution.
Preparation of glass fiber concrete
Here, there are various distinctions:
- We use sand of smaller fractions. If we usually take the largest particle size passing through a 2.5 mm sieve, then for glass fiber concrete we need to limit ourselves to a size of no more than 1-1.5 mm;
- When mixing the solution, we add fiberglass and polymer into it;
- If the fiberglass used is not acid-resistant, then it is better to choose not ordinary Portland cement, but aluminous;
- For mixing the solution, it is better to use a forced-action mixer rather than a gravity-type concrete mixer.
Preparing the molds
Everything is exactly the same as it always is here:
- lubricate the inner surfaces in contact with the solution;
- carefully connect the halves of the mold, making sure that the locking pins enter the mating holes;
- if we have not thought out special locks, then it is best to use clamps for a strong connection.
Pay heed. The reason why the mold pieces don’t fit together properly could be that you removed too much material (excessive cutting width) when cutting the molds in half. Rubber strips can be glued together and the excess cut off with a sharp knife along the mold’s inner surface to solve the issue.
Installing the reinforcement and embedded parts
Baluster reinforcement almost always consists of a single, thick rod in the center. Additionally, it is employed to fasten the baluster to the railings and stairs. In terms of material resistance, this scheme is not quite right, though.
Note: The outer layers of the baluster are subjected to tensile stresses, which the reinforcement attempts to offset. As a result, it is worthwhile to test a few rods that are positioned closer to the product’s edges. Don’t overlook the three-centimeter protective layer at the same time.
- In order to accurately fix the reinforcement from displacement, when molding, you can use standard clamps that remain in the thickness of the concrete. But with a small thickness of the product, and considering that rods of large diameter are usually used, you can make them a part of the mold. For example: a plate with a hole, fixed on the edges of the hole for feeding the mixture.
- Balusters made of fiberglass concrete do not need to be reinforced at all, since the material itself has sufficient strength. Moreover, with fiber concrete, you can try to make a hollow product from it, saving materials.
- Embedded parts are often not installed in balusters, but the product is fastened to the protruding reinforcement. However, if we are going to mount the fence on a standard reinforced concrete flight, then they are necessary. Also, if there are embedded parts, the connection unit with the handrails turns out to be more durable.
Kindly take note! Typically, the embedded portion is a thick steel plate that is the same size as the baluster’s supporting platform. A number of rods are welded at the bottom, 15–20 centimeters deep into the concrete, to attach it to the concrete. Hooks on the ends of the rods can be bent for a more dependable anchor.
We form and compact the balusters
Nothing new occurs here either; the mixture is fed through the form’s neck. Because of the small form diameter, it is not possible to do this directly from the mixer; instead, you will need to use a funnel-like device. Using a concrete pump is the best option.
Compaction and molding must be combined for the mixture to fill all of the cavities. That is, either leave the vibrator running continuously when feeding concrete, or switch it on and off on a regular basis. For compaction, a vibrating table works best. However, some do-it-yourself artisans also use deep vibrators. If the baluster has a comparatively large diameter, then this is feasible.
Pay heed. The baluster ends need to be carefully aligned after molding. Strict perpendicularity to the axis is required for their plane. If not, the intricate alignment of the concrete balusters will make installation challenging.
Stripping
While the standards state that stripping strength should be reached in two or three days, depending on the surrounding temperature, when producing large quantities of individual products (like blocks), the formwork is actually removed in a matter of hours.
What matters most is that the mixture is adequately compacted and does not contain an excessive amount of moisture. However, this method is not appropriate for the production of concrete balusters.
- On the surface of the balusters there is no direct flat platform on which it can be laid so as not to mole the surface of unnecessary concrete;
- The suspended surfaces are necessarily flooded under the weight of the mixture;
- early removal of formwork, especially complex shape, is difficult to carry out without damaging the surface. For decorative products, such defects are not acceptable.
As a result, you must wait the necessary amount of time. In severe circumstances, placing the products on a sand or sawdust-covered surface will help you remove the shape a little sooner. Concrete should, however, continue to remain in the form of at least a day, as experience indicates.
Consequently, it is preferable to have multiple forms rather than just one in order to expedite the manufacturing process (balusters typically require several dozen pieces). The form needs to be completely rinsed and free of any remaining concrete after the light up. If not, the hardened mixture will be challenging to remove later.
Checking the condition of the paintwork and inner surface is also necessary for forms made of foam or plaster. If flaws are discovered, the affected areas must be repainted and puttied.
Additionally, these materials’ forms require periodic drying until the material loses all of its moisture. However, using high temperatures (like those found in an industrial hair dryer) is not recommended.
Steaming
It is understandable that many do-it-yourself artisans are searching for ways to enhance this indicator given the low form turnover (long wait times for reusing the same form). There appears to be a workaround: apply steaming, which is a factory-used technique for quickening the concrete’s hardening process. Furthermore, a lot of people think that this process makes the products stronger.
However, there are a few reasons why such technology is challenging to use in our situation:
- Of the homemade forms proposed in this article, only fiberglass will withstand high temperatures and humidity. Polyurethane and polystyrene will collapse when heated to sixty degrees, and gypsum will crumble from steam.
- You need a sealed chamber in which you can maintain a strict steaming regime: a gradual rise in temperature for several hours, then maintaining the set temperature and the same smooth decrease. Moreover, all this must be calculated taking into account the volume and geometry of the product, as well as the characteristics of the shape.
Apart from computations, an automated monitoring and control system is required to endure these circumstances.
- Another challenge is finding a steam source that can supply it for a long time. True, you can try to pirate a connection to a neighboring enterprise. Steam boilers for home use are not produced due to increased danger. Even if you manage to make a homemade structure, then calculate the fuel costs – energy sources are not cheap today.
The most crucial point to remember is that steaming has no benefits other than quickening the hardening process.
Furthermore, there are two reasons why the strength properties of concrete even decline:
- due to microcracks that form due to different coefficients of thermal expansion of cement stone, sand and crushed stone;
- due to pores that steam makes in the concrete monolith.
Consequently, it is more profitable to use hardening accelerators and produce more molds (though these also don’t really help much). The molded products must be properly cared for in order to guarantee the calculated strength.
Care of balusters during concrete hardening
Like all concrete products, everything is standard: there is more moisture and less sunlight.
Observe these guidelines:
- Cover the balusters from direct sunlight.
- To retain moisture inside the material, cover the finished products with polyethylene film.
- We periodically moisten the surface, while in the first days you need to avoid strong streams that can damage the surface. It is best to fill them with sawdust or sand, and water the topping.
The best course of action, however, is to submerge the completed goods in water and let them harden there.
You can start installing them after the concrete reaches the necessary strength. By the way, it takes four weeks to build up brand strength; however, if we don’t apply heavy loads right away, three or even two will suffice.
Step | Description |
1. Planning | Decide on the height, style, and number of balusters you need. Sketch out your design and take measurements. |
2. Preparing Materials | Gather materials: concrete mix, water, a mold for shaping, and a release agent to prevent sticking. |
3. Creating the Mold | Build or buy a mold that matches the design of your balusters. Ensure it’s sturdy and can hold the concrete securely. |
4. Mixing Concrete | Follow the instructions on your concrete mix to combine it with water. Mix until it"s smooth and workable. |
5. Pouring Concrete | Pour the concrete into the mold. Use a trowel or a stick to ensure it fills every corner and to remove any air bubbles. |
6. Curing | Allow the concrete to set and cure for the recommended time. Keep it moist to avoid cracking. |
7. Removing the Mold | Once the concrete is fully cured, carefully remove the mold. Clean any residue from the balusters. |
8. Installing Balusters | Position the balusters in place. Secure them with mortar or adhesive, depending on the surface they’re attached to. |
9. Finishing Touches | Check for any rough spots or imperfections. Sand them down and, if desired, paint or seal the balusters for added protection. |
DIY concrete baluster creation and installation can be a satisfying project that improves the aesthetics and usability of your area. You don’t need to hire a contractor to get professional-looking results if you have the right equipment and a little perseverance. By following the instructions, which include using molds, properly mixing the concrete, and making sure that the installation is done correctly, you’ll not only save money but also feel proud of your finished project.
Being prepared is one of the keys to this do-it-yourself project’s success. The result will be much different if you take the time to measure precisely, set up your molds, and mix the concrete to the proper consistency. Furthermore, take your time curing; allowing the balusters to fully set and cure will guarantee their long-term durability.
Recall that although the procedure can be a little messy and time-consuming, the outcome is worthwhile. Your freshly installed concrete balusters will not only give your room a sense of refinement and durability, but they’ll also be a showcase for your do-it-yourself abilities. So grab a pair of gloves, prepare to get a little messy, and relish the sense of accomplishment that comes from making something lovely by hand.