Aerated concrete bathhouse: features of waterproofing and finishing

Because of its lightweight, insulating qualities, and ease of use, aerated concrete has gained popularity as a building material for bathhouses. To keep the structure sturdy and comfortable, its porous nature necessitates extra care in waterproofing and finishing.

Because bathhouses are exposed to high levels of moisture, waterproofing is essential. The aerated concrete may absorb water if it is not properly protected, which could cause damage and shorten the structure’s lifespan. Keeping the bathhouse dry and in good shape requires careful selection of waterproofing materials and methods.

Careful planning is also necessary for finishing an aerated concrete bathhouse’s exterior and interior. The appropriate finishing touches add to the building’s overall durability in addition to improving its aesthetic appeal. The finishing materials you choose—whether it’s contemporary tiles or classic wood paneling—should support the waterproofing efforts and endure the moist atmosphere.

What is aerated concrete

The content includes:

• Cement;
• Gypsum;
• Lime;
• Quartz sand;
• Aluminum powder;
• Water.

These components aren’t just combined. They are combined with gas and fed into specialized autoclaves, which causes the mixture to foam. Cellular concrete is the end product, and its closed pores are filled with gas.

A bathhouse constructed of aerated concrete blocks retains heat extremely well because the material’s thermal conductivity is similar to that of wood.

Advantages of the material

The following are some benefits of using aerated concrete blocks as the primary building material for walls:

• Stable shape and large size products, which allows you to quickly and easily build smooth walls. You can do it yourself, if you have minimal experience in such work.

• Low weight, which also simplifies installation, without requiring the use of construction equipment. In addition, such a bath does not need a powerful foundation, since the load on it will be small.
• Environmental friendliness – the material is made from natural components without adding synthetic substances.
• Ease of processing – blocks are sawn with a regular hacksaw, chainsaw or any other household tool.

• Fire safety. Unlike wood, aerated concrete is not subject to combustion.
• Resistance to mold, destruction by insects and rodents.
• Low thermal conductivity, which makes the material suitable for the construction of baths and saunas.
• Affordable price: walls made of aerated concrete will cost at least twice as much as log or timber.
• Manufacturer-claimed durability.

As a point of reference. Given that this material is no older than thirty years, you may question its durability. There isn’t enough time here to make significant judgments.

• No shrinkage and the ability to begin finishing immediately after completion of construction.

Disadvantages of the material

The primary drawback of aerated concrete is its high absorption capacity and challenging evaporation. However, there’s no reason to be afraid of it if the aerated concrete bathhouse waterproofing is completed to the highest standard and complies with all regulations.

Low moisture resistance, however, restricts the variety of finishing options available. For instance, it is not advised to paint or plaster aerated concrete outside since these finishes will obstruct moisture evaporation.

Suggestions. It is preferable to use autoclaved insulation blocks when constructing a bathhouse. Their resistance to moisture is superior.

Aerated concrete bath houses are strong and energy-efficient, but because of their porous nature, moisture damage must be avoided through appropriate waterproofing and finishing. Applying efficient waterproofing techniques, such as specialized coatings or membranes, and selecting materials for interior and exterior finishes that can tolerate the humid climate are crucial for ensuring longevity.

Stages of construction of an aerated concrete bath

The process of building a bathhouse starts, as it does in any other situation, with choosing or creating a project and figuring out where to put the structure.

When it comes to the dimensions and placement of the rooms, the design for a bathhouse composed of aerated concrete blocks is completely customizable. The nice thing about them is that waste can be reduced without considering the block sizes. They don’t crumble or break and are simple to cut.

Aerated concrete bathhouse projects that are already built can be taken into consideration. For instance, based on those displayed above. Alternately, design your own project based on your requirements and skills.

Additionally, a built-in bathhouse in an aerated concrete home is a great choice. Preparing ahead of time for communication supply and offering superior waterproofing are crucial.

Foundation device

As was already mentioned, the abundance of voids in the structure of aerated concrete makes it a relatively light material. As a result, a shallow strip foundation works best for structures made of it. It also works with any type of soil.

It is crucial to remember to leave gaps for communication output when installing it. It is also very desirable to bring out an even horizontal level of all sides right away, as this will facilitate future block laying.

Construction of walls

Waterproofing the foundation is the first step in building walls. We recall that aerated concrete is very good at absorbing water when used for baths. It must therefore be covered with two layers of roofing felt so that it does not come into contact with the foundation.

The masonry process then starts, which is similar to erecting walls made of brick or cinder blocks. However, there are still some subtleties.

• First, the corner blocks are laid on the cement mortar.

Suggestions. Check the foundation’s top level before laying, and if there are any variations, place the block first on the corner with the highest mark. Line up the others with it.

• A cord is pulled between the corner elements, along which the first row is laid. Its horizontality should be constantly checked with a building level.
• The following rows are laid on a special glue designed for aerated concrete. Many manufacturers of aerated concrete blocks also produce it. The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 0.5-0.7 cm.
• If a country bathhouse is built from ordinary blocks, the glue is applied to all surfaces in contact with other elements. If the blocks have special joint grooves, there is no need to coat the side surfaces. This is only necessary if a cut block is laid in a row: the glue will have to be applied to the cut surface.
• To increase the strength and reliability of the structure, the instructions recommend reinforcing every fourth row of masonry with a metal belt. For this, parallel grooves are cut in the blocks along the entire perimeter. Reinforcement is laid in them and filled with concrete.

• To form lintels above window and door openings, use monolithic reinforced blocks or special trays made of aerated concrete. Temporarily install supports under them in the opening, and place reinforcement inside and pour concrete.
• The top row of masonry is also reinforced with a stiffening belt. In this concrete belt, when pouring the solution, install reinforcement and anchors to fix the roofing elements.

Kindly take note. To stop the weight of the roof from destroying gas blocks, a monolithic concrete belt is required.

Roofing device

The aerated concrete’s load-bearing capacity is restricted. As a result, homes with no more than two stories are constructed using it, and single- or double-pitched, hip roofs are the lightest and easiest to build.

Prior to installing the rafters, the wall plate is fastened to the components that are pre-mounted within the concrete belt. This is done in accordance with technology.

Calculation of aerated concrete blocks and glue

ROOM PARAMETERS:PARTITIONS:

Finishing

Don’t forget to lay communications before you finish. Since pipes and wires can be concealed in the wall’s recesses and aerated concrete can be grooved, this can be done without any issues.

Interior decoration

Waterproofing the walls and floor of an aerated concrete bathhouse is the first step in interior design. Insulating the building from the inside is not necessary. And aspen, alder, or linden wood lining will make the best finishing material. The works are listed in the following order:

Exterior decoration

In addition, external walls must be shielded from airborne pollutants, particularly moisture. It is preferable to repair the insulation from the outside if you still wish to insulate an aerated concrete bathhouse. Ventilated facades with frame cladding, siding, block houses, and ornamental panels would be the best choice.

Aerated concrete bathhouse construction has many benefits, but for long-term durability, attention to waterproofing and finishing is essential. In a bathhouse where water and steam are constantly present, proper waterproofing is crucial to preventing moisture damage to the structure.

It’s important to choose finishing materials that can tolerate high humidity and temperature changes. This guarantees that the bathhouse will continue to function and look good over time. Paying attention to these little things will make your bathhouse experience long-lasting and cozy.

In summary, while aerated concrete is a versatile and efficient building material, its success in bathhouse construction hinges on effective waterproofing and thoughtful finishing choices. With the right approach, your aerated concrete bathhouse will serve you well for years to come.

Video on the topic

How NOT to ruin a sauna made of aerated concrete?

Bathhouse finishing #4. Waterproofing in the steam room.

Interior finishing of the sauna Part 1 (laying waterproofing)